Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[TheLawBeard]

@Seph can we please get a decent solid brown fabric again at some point? If I recall correctly it's been a few years since I've seen a one other than the current greenwich brown twill (which really is a weird fabric after seeing it in person). The last one I remember was a heavy linen. It'd be great to see a dark/coffee brown denim, chambray, flannel, etc.

 

[bpenchi]

For info, the picture of mine you shared was my first attempt at Propercloth trousers and I have made several changes since then, those in the pic came out too slim for my liking and the hip measurement was too small causing the smaller pleat to splay open.

I would say your trousers need to be made fuller, at least an inch if not more adding to the half measurements to get them to fall and drape cleanly.

For reference, my leg opening is almost 9" vs your 7.7 which is incredibly narrow looking at the size of your feet.

Have you compared the measurements on a well-fitting pair of trousers to what PC made? I'd say you need more than an inch for the PC trousers to drape decently, and I agree with dapperclassic that the cuff width is too small for your feet.

Thanks for the feedback.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a well-fitting pair of trousers to use as a reference, but thank you for the suggestions. I’ll try increasing the fullness by an inch to start.

@Seph if you have any further thoughts or advice, I’d love to hear them as well!

 

[Seph]

Hi @Seph or anyone else at the company, I've been a long-time customer since 2014 (love the product, thanks for making good shirts and fits accessible).

I haven't been able to figure out why my recent orders on shirts have not fit well in the shoulder, then realized it must have been something with the change in how you did your fits in October 2023:

Fit Updates Oct 3, 2023: Shirt Shoulder Slope and Yoke Height

Learn about the recent updates on shirt shoulder slope and yoke height. Discover how these changes can improve the fit of your shirts.

propercloth.com

I am running into a lot of problems with pulling in the shoulder / shoulder slope. I keep getting these lines running down the shoulder.

Settings for last order of shirts is shoulders lowered 0.6, chest forward 1", neck standard. Something isn't working, whether it's chest should be neutral or shoulders should just be lowered 0.2 or neck should actually be forward 0.5... I haven't been able to figure it out over many orders and remakes now and discussions with support. Could you please take a look at the below pics and possibly diagnose / help? Thanks.

View attachment 2230687 View attachment 2230689 View attachment 2230691 View attachment 2230693

View attachment 2230695

These finer points can be very tricky - need the full front/side/back views. Especially combining slopes with chest posture with shoulder slopes. Chest forward could be part of the problem. I don't think these issues are a result of the October 3rd change. If you haven't already, submit a FAR and DM me your email and I can look at those photos more closely.

 

[Seph]

Currently planning my first purchase but have some questions about the advanced posture options. Would really appreciate input from @Seph.

1) I am wondering, from the photo, what shoulder slope option seems most appropriate for me.

2) Shirts tend to stand away from my neck in the back and they tend to be tight on my chest. As a result, I thought I would try both neck and chest forward (1/2inch and 1 inch respectively). Does that sound right in terms of adjustment? Or is that nonsensical?

Have to provide more posture pics if that would help.

Yes, hard to answer without seeing the side view. But if collars don't typically stay on the back of your neck, neck forward could be part of the solution. I would caution against just assuming chest forward. That really shouldn't be necessary unless you're trying to get a very tight fit and even then it's best worked in after an initial fitting.

 

[Seph]

I am becoming somewhat frustrated with their suiting program - due to a lack of customization options. My specific fit problem: I have rather broad shoulders but a very slim neck. The PC suit collar is cut too wide for my specifications. It's only really visible on one side (perhaps due to my unevenly sloped shoulders), marked below:

View attachment 2245515

Barely noticeable on the right side here in the second picture, but it's been bothering me quite a bit, as I do have MTM and OTR jackets where the collar hugs the neck perfectly:

View attachment 2245527

Everything else about the jacket fits fine, it's exactly to my liking.

Suitsupply has this "reduce collar width" option, which, by taking away about 0,8cm (the maximum) has always given me very good results. View attachment 2245517

However, PC has no option for collar sizes. I have already tried their neck forward adjustment, which sadly didn't fix the problem. I handed the pictured jacket to a tailor who concluded that by pinching the collar by about 1cm he could fix the issue, as it is only marginal (he'll charge 30€):

View attachment 2245519

I fear that this bears the risk of the shoulders trimming down too and becoming too slim. It will also slightly raise the notch point. For my personal taste, the wide lapel cut already has a fairly high gorge, even though it is lowered from their standard.

I'll see how this alteration turns out and can update in the thread if it is of any interest.

Just to add: I understand that MTM is not bespoke and I will never achieve a "perfect" fit. But this issue along with the standardised low armholes is making me reconsider if the PC jackets will ever be worth it for me. Maybe @dapperclassic can weigh in, as he seems to be getting an excellent fit from their suiting - his physique may be very different though.

It's a pity, as their canvassing and construction is way superior to Suitsupply and for someone looking for MTM in the below ~1000€ range, their prices are very competitive. If anyone has suggestions for an alternative for EU market (sadly, Spiermackay is not an option with 300€ in shipping, tax and tolls for 600€ suits), it'd be of help, too.

Very interesting. Not entirely sure how this would work. We will discuss internally.

 

[Seph]

Hi everyone! I’m seeking some advice on adjustments for the remake of my first pair of trousers.

During my initial video consultation before ordering, I shared pictures of @dapperclassic with the consultant to illustrate the fit I was aiming for. Below, you’ll find photos of how the first pair turned out. After receiving them, I sent these pictures, along with some reference images, to Proper Cloth, and they recommended a few changes.

However, I have a gut feeling that the fit may still not align with what I’m aiming for. I’d appreciate any advice on how to achieve a fit similar to the trousers in the quoted comment. Thanks in advance!

	1st make	Suggested 2nd make
Waist Width	15.4	14.9
Hip Width	20.1	20.8
Thigh Width	12.6	13.0
Knee Width	8.9	9.2
Leg Opening Width	7.4	7.8
Front Rise	11.2	11.2
Back Rise	16.2	16.2
Total Rise (Auto)		27.4
Inseam Length	28.3	27.8
Total Length (Auto)	38.1	37.5

View attachment 2246203 View attachment 2246199 View attachment 2246201

If the goal is to have the pant drape clean/straight down the back I would agree with the others - you'll want considerably more added to thigh, knee and leg opening. Consider going closer to 13.5 thigh, 10.5 knee and 8.5 leg opening. I'd also question increasing hip width 0.7, but there could be things I am not seeing - or comfort could be an issue.

 

[Seph]

@Seph can we please get a decent solid brown fabric again at some point? If I recall correctly it's been a few years since I've seen a one other than the current greenwich brown twill (which really is a weird fabric after seeing it in person). The last one I remember was a heavy linen. It'd be great to see a dark/coffee brown denim, chambray, flannel, etc.

Got it. I know it's not exactly what you're after, but this one is recently back: https://propercloth.com/dress-shirts/canclini-taupe-oxford-beacon-flannel-365045.html

 

[TheLawBeard]

Got it. I know it's not exactly what you're after, but this one is recently back: https://propercloth.com/dress-shirts/canclini-taupe-oxford-beacon-flannel-365045.html

That's on my radar but definitely not what I was hoping for haha. Hoping you offer something "rustic" or "rugged" in a darker brown at some point.

 

[gettoasty]

which collar do you’ll think goes well with a denim snap button shirt?

Tangentially, which collars sit well underneath a jacket collar ? Which collar has the longest point?

I’m trying to figure out which collars to go with and avoid for denim shirt and chambray that would be Dieworkwear approved.

 

[vikke977]

I’d go with the Soft Roma Spread. It’s a nice and expressive collar that goes with casual fabrics.

The Soft Roma Cutaway is similar with many of the same attributes, but for a snap button denim shirt – and it’s western shirt vibes – a more pointed collar works better. Also, in general the cutaway has become ubiquitous to the point where classic, more pointed collars are a breath of fresh air.

The Soft Ivy Buttondown is a good choice for denims and chambrays (and almost anything not strictly dressy!) but iirc you can’t pair it with snap buttons. And again, for a snap button/denim combo a pointed/spread collar is the one to choose.

 

[gettoasty]

@vikke977 Ty!

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Good question. Yes, there is a systematic way of doing it - and it's all based on the fabric selected. Hem stitch style has nothing to do with the collar style chosen, so don't worry about that. I have always associated the really tight hem stitch with high quality dress shirts, so I haven't wanted to abandon it completely - but for many untucked casual shirt styles it can roll up, so we started to switch to the larger 5/16" stitch style for more casual fabrics. Looks like all of our TM oxfords have been assigned the standard hem - but we will revisit that decision based on your comment. All the TM Flannels are set to 5/16", so you should be fine to order one of those.

@Seph I inquired with your staff about whether your Blue Indigo Chambray Fabric could be switched to the larger stitch style for casual shirts, and it seems they don't have the ability to control that directly, but would "pass this request on to our Product Design and Construction team." Do you think you can see if that change can be put through? Or tell me if you disagree, but it seems like this should qualify as a casual fabric.

 

[Seph]

@Seph I inquired with your staff about whether your Blue Indigo Chambray Fabric could be switched to the larger stitch style for casual shirts, and it seems they don't have the ability to control that directly, but would "pass this request on to our Product Design and Construction team." Do you think you can see if that change can be put through? Or tell me if you disagree, but it seems like this should qualify as a casual fabric.

Oh I see the original thread. Yes that should be possible.

 

[AndAllTheRestOfIT]

Hey, I'm wondering about the button down collar styles on an order I'm about to put together. What do people usually get for a casual shirt, no tie?

Options are:
Soft Ivy
President
Colorado

 

[TheLawBeard]

Hey, I'm wondering about the button down collar styles on an order I'm about to put together. What do people usually get for a casual shirt, no tie?

Options are:
Soft Ivy
President
Colorado

Big fan of soft Ivy.

Tried Colorado, wasn't too impressed.