Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[StanleyVanBuren]

On my last order, they thought my office was a home and tried twice to deliver after office hours. I managed to get someone on the phone and clarify it was a business address and they got it delivered later that same afternoon.

 

[Club Soda]

Managed to get some photos of the offending soft roma button down collar and the strange way it's sagging on my neck. Anyone got a diagnosis? Diameter too large? Too tall and I should go with ivy BD instead?

Cheers!

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With a non fused, lightly lined button down collar that's pretty normal. Unlined, unfused lined, and lined fused all have some form of creasing or sagging fabric. I think your right side looks fine but the left is slightly odd. The collar it's self looks like I needs to be pulled down; it looks rolled.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

well, I see prices keep creeping up across the board

 

[fatpauljackson]

Hi @Seph or anyone else at the company, I've been a long-time customer since 2014 (love the product, thanks for making good shirts and fits accessible).

I haven't been able to figure out why my recent orders on shirts have not fit well in the shoulder, then realized it must have been something with the change in how you did your fits in October 2023:

Fit Updates Oct 3, 2023: Shirt Shoulder Slope and Yoke Height

Learn about the recent updates on shirt shoulder slope and yoke height. Discover how these changes can improve the fit of your shirts.

propercloth.com

I am running into a lot of problems with pulling in the shoulder / shoulder slope. I keep getting these lines running down the shoulder.

Settings for last order of shirts is shoulders lowered 0.6, chest forward 1", neck standard. Something isn't working, whether it's chest should be neutral or shoulders should just be lowered 0.2 or neck should actually be forward 0.5... I haven't been able to figure it out over many orders and remakes now and discussions with support. Could you please take a look at the below pics and possibly diagnose / help? Thanks.

 

[Shetterd]

Currently planning my first purchase but have some questions about the advanced posture options. Would really appreciate input from @Seph.

1) I am wondering, from the photo, what shoulder slope option seems most appropriate for me.

2) Shirts tend to stand away from my neck in the back and they tend to be tight on my chest. As a result, I thought I would try both neck and chest forward (1/2inch and 1 inch respectively). Does that sound right in terms of adjustment? Or is that nonsensical?

Have to provide more posture pics if that would help.

 

[ericgereghty]

holy smackos, price of the brick going up big time with some PC fabrics. I trust that PC is just passing along price increases, rather than gouging, but, man, $150 + tax for McNutt linen is wackadoodle to me.

 

[TheLawBeard]

holy smackos, price of the brick going up big time with some PC fabrics. I trust that PC is just passing along price increases, rather than gouging, but, man, $150 + tax for McNutt linen is wackadoodle to me.

I can't believe I'm saying this- but with how hard inflation has hit I'm actually a bit surprised that the prices haven't gone up even more than they already have.

Makes me sad (and makes me order less) but at the same time I get it. Their price increases at least feel a bit more modest than other companies and other hobbies/passions of mine. I think my biggest complaint about it is that it feels like more shirts are ending up in the higher price brackets than before.

In my brain I kinda feel like they've always had "price brackets" for shirts and even after adjusting all of the brackets upwards for inflation I feel like more fabrics (maybe its just me having expensive taste) are ending up in the higher price brackets than previous seasons.

 

[ericgereghty]

I can't believe I'm saying this- but with how hard inflation has hit I'm actually a bit surprised that the prices haven't gone up even more than they already have.

Makes me sad (and makes me order less) but at the same time I get it. Their price increases at least feel a bit more modest than other companies and other hobbies/passions of mine. I think my biggest complaint about it is that it feels like more shirts are ending up in the higher price brackets than before.

In my brain I kinda feel like they've always had "price brackets" for shirts and even after adjusting all of the brackets upwards for inflation I feel like more fabrics (maybe its just me having expensive taste) are ending up in the higher price brackets than previous seasons.

Yaaaaaa, the McNutt just rose too high (even if quantifiably defensible) for me. Up from $100 to $150 in 18 some odd months leaves an icky taste. Doesn't help that I'm largely only in the market for linen, and their linen blends don't really appeal. For more refined linens, I'm likely to go elsewhere rather than paying in the $200 vicinity.

 

[ericgereghty]

I should note that there are niggling fit issues (not dealbreaking on their own, admittedly) that the PC algo can't overcome on my physique. Which, in a vacuum, is understandable, but becomes harder to roll with when the value proposition ceases to exist.

 

[TheLawBeard]

I should note that there are niggling fit issues (not dealbreaking on their own, admittedly) that the PC algo can't overcome on my physique. Which, in a vacuum, is understandable, but becomes harder to roll with when the value proposition ceases to exist.

I occasionally get a shirt that's out of spec due to shrinkage or just human assembly. About every other year I try to drop in or have my measurements checked/updated. Usually small changes.

I'll agree though. For me, it's a bit of a hard sell to pay higher prices for linen. I just don't expect linen to be hard-wearing enough usually for me when I do the "cost per wear" equation in my head.

 

[stu len]

I am becoming somewhat frustrated with their suiting program - due to a lack of customization options. My specific fit problem: I have rather broad shoulders but a very slim neck. The PC suit collar is cut too wide for my specifications. It's only really visible on one side (perhaps due to my unevenly sloped shoulders), marked below:

Barely noticeable on the right side here in the second picture, but it's been bothering me quite a bit, as I do have MTM and OTR jackets where the collar hugs the neck perfectly:



Everything else about the jacket fits fine, it's exactly to my liking.

Suitsupply has this "reduce collar width" option, which, by taking away about 0,8cm (the maximum) has always given me very good results.

However, PC has no option for collar sizes. I have already tried their neck forward adjustment, which sadly didn't fix the problem. I handed the pictured jacket to a tailor who concluded that by pinching the collar by about 1cm he could fix the issue, as it is only marginal (he'll charge 30€):



I fear that this bears the risk of the shoulders trimming down too and becoming too slim. It will also slightly raise the notch point. For my personal taste, the wide lapel cut already has a fairly high gorge, even though it is lowered from their standard.

I'll see how this alteration turns out and can update in the thread if it is of any interest.

Just to add: I understand that MTM is not bespoke and I will never achieve a "perfect" fit. But this issue along with the standardised low armholes is making me reconsider if the PC jackets will ever be worth it for me. Maybe @dapperclassic can weigh in, as he seems to be getting an excellent fit from their suiting - his physique may be very different though.

It's a pity, as their canvassing and construction is way superior to Suitsupply and for someone looking for MTM in the below ~1000€ range, their prices are very competitive. If anyone has suggestions for an alternative for EU market (sadly, Spiermackay is not an option with 300€ in shipping, tax and tolls for 600€ suits), it'd be of help, too.

 

[EZB]

Anybody have experience with the selvedge chambray fabrics?

 

[bpenchi]

Hi everyone! I’m seeking some advice on adjustments for the remake of my first pair of trousers.

During my initial video consultation before ordering, I shared pictures of @dapperclassic with the consultant to illustrate the fit I was aiming for. Below, you’ll find photos of how the first pair turned out. After receiving them, I sent these pictures, along with some reference images, to Proper Cloth, and they recommended a few changes.

However, I have a gut feeling that the fit may still not align with what I’m aiming for. I’d appreciate any advice on how to achieve a fit similar to the trousers in the quoted comment. Thanks in advance!

	1st make	Suggested 2nd make
Waist Width	15.4	14.9
Hip Width	20.1	20.8
Thigh Width	12.6	13.0
Knee Width	8.9	9.2
Leg Opening Width	7.4	7.8
Front Rise	11.2	11.2
Back Rise	16.2	16.2
Total Rise (Auto)		27.4
Inseam Length	28.3	27.8
Total Length (Auto)	38.1	37.5

First go with some Propercloth custom trousers, these are a mid weight VBC puppytooth flannel. What do you think?

View attachment 1733610

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[dapperclassic]

Hi everyone! I’m seeking some advice on adjustments for the remake of my first pair of trousers.

During my initial video consultation before ordering, I shared pictures of @dapperclassic with the consultant to illustrate the fit I was aiming for. Below, you’ll find photos of how the first pair turned out. After receiving them, I sent these pictures, along with some reference images, to Proper Cloth, and they recommended a few changes.

However, I have a gut feeling that the fit may still not align with what I’m aiming for. I’d appreciate any advice on how to achieve a fit similar to the trousers in the quoted comment. Thanks in advance!

	1st make	Suggested 2nd make
Waist Width	15.4	14.9
Hip Width	20.1	20.8
Thigh Width	12.6	13.0
Knee Width	8.9	9.2
Leg Opening Width	7.4	7.8
Front Rise	11.2	11.2
Back Rise	16.2	16.2
Total Rise (Auto)		27.4
Inseam Length	28.3	27.8
Total Length (Auto)	38.1	37.5

View attachment 2246203 View attachment 2246199 View attachment 2246201

For info, the picture of mine you shared was my first attempt at Propercloth trousers and I have made several changes since then, those in the pic came out too slim for my liking and the hip measurement was too small causing the smaller pleat to splay open.

I would say your trousers need to be made fuller, at least an inch if not more adding to the half measurements to get them to fall and drape cleanly.

For reference, my leg opening is almost 9" vs your 7.7 which is incredibly narrow looking at the size of your feet.

 

[philosophe]

Have you compared the measurements on a well-fitting pair of trousers to what PC made? I'd say you need more than an inch for the PC trousers to drape decently, and I agree with dapperclassic that the cuff width is too small for your feet.