Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[macjedi]

How do you determine the right sleeve width? The arm hole seems to be determined in most part by the sleeve width. I have small arms, 11 to 11.5 in ø. I'm having a hell of a time getting a good fit in the chest and I think it's due to the arm hole being too low. I've been doing 7.75" for the sleeve width. How small should I go? I have my fourth order starting today and I'm thinking about canceling as I'm only guessing at this point.

Thanks!

 

[novaeagle]

How do you determine the right sleeve width? The arm hole seems to be determined in most part by the sleeve width. I have small arms, 11 to 11.5 in ø. I'm having a hell of a time getting a good fit in the chest and I think it's due to the arm hole being too low. I've been doing 7.75" for the sleeve width. How small should I go? I have my fourth order starting today and I'm thinking about canceling as I'm only guessing at this point.

Thanks!

So your half-bicep is 53.75"? Then 7.75" gives you is +4" extra room in the arm. I think I went much slimmer in the arm, like +2.5, although idr exactly what right now, and the arm fikts perfectly on me. Sounds like yours is too baggy... which would also explain why your armhole is too low.

Also, from their site (paraphrased):

If the armhole is too low, it could be because you have square shoulders. Also, selecting tailored shoulder lowers the armhole by 1/8".

Do you have square shoulders?

I'd recommend shrinking the arm, based on your measurements. Maybe increasing shoulder slope if you feel its necessary. But it sounds like shrinking that arm measurement would be a best start.

Have you used their smart sizes based on body measurements? They actually give very good sizing advice, assuming you measure yourself correctly (which they give good advice on that as well).

 

[ccallis]



How do you determine the right sleeve width? The arm hole seems to be determined in most part by the sleeve width. I have small arms, 11 to 11.5 in ø. I'm having a hell of a time getting a good fit in the chest and I think it's due to the arm hole being too low. I've been doing 7.75" for the sleeve width. How small should I go? I have my fourth order starting today and I'm thinking about canceling as I'm only guessing at this point.

Thanks!

@novaeagle Thanks for jumping in and helping.

@macjedi Happy to help--can you send an email with a few photos of you wearing your most recent shirt to [email protected]? Saw you had submitted some here on Jan 3, but not sure if that's your most recent fit or not.

Judging from those images, it looks like you could add a tailored armpit fit, take .5" out of the sleeve, and take more fabric out of both the chest and midsection. Want to make sure we get your next order dialed in!

 

[macjedi]



@novaeagle Thanks for jumping in and helping.

Thanks!

@macjedi Happy to help--can you send an email with a few photos of you wearing your most recent shirt to [email protected]? Saw you had submitted some here on Jan 3, but not sure if that's your most recent fit or not.

Judging from those images, it looks like you could add a tailored armpit fit, take .5" out of the sleeve, and take more fabric out of both the chest and midsection. Want to make sure we get your next order dialed in!

Hi Chris! Here's my last post. I had the shirt redone, but don't have fotos of it … it came out too small in the chest as I think the chest measurement is hitting me too low. When I have my wife lift the shirt from the shoulders, every thing seems to align better. Believe it or not, I already have the tailored armpit. I was thinking about switching to full as I read that would also raise the armpit a bit. I also have the sloping shoulder set and was thinking about setting it to normal since everything seems kinda low on me. BTW, I'm 5'5" 130lbs. My chest is around 36, waist around 31.5, biceps 11-11.5, shoulders seem to be good at around 16-16.25".

Thanks!

Just got my second shirt back from Proper Cloth.

I've washed it twice and hang dried after each wash, but it still looks a bit big maybe in the chest & waist. The collar is a bit larger as well … don't know if it's the soft collar (presidential) or fabric (cotton/linen) that's making the difference. Also, the collar points seem a bit short and are flaring out a bit. Would the Roma collar be a better choice? I'd appreciate any advice you guys can provide so I can make the next revision. Thanks!!!

Spoiler: Fit fotos

EDIT: from here I went:
-0.75 chest
-0.75 waist
-0.5 sleeve width

 

[novaeagle]

I still highly recommend the smartsizes. Also, an up-to-date picture would help, but if you haven't changed it since that picture, then I can tell you your yoke measurement is way too huge. As in, probably an entire inch, maybe even more.

ninja edit: juddging by the sleeve bunching, I'd feature a guess that your sleeve is too long too.

 

[macjedi]



I still highly recommend the smartsizes. Also, an up-to-date picture would help, but if you haven't changed it since that picture, then I can tell you your yoke measurement is way too huge. As in, probably an entire inch, maybe even more.

ninja edit: juddging by the sleeve bunching, I'd feature a guess that your sleeve is too long too.

Thanks for the reply! I hear ya, the yoke in that foto was 16.5. I changed it to 16 based upon advice from Chris and or Britanny. I think it's good at 16, maybe a tad wider.

I tried the smart size to see what the measurements came out too and they're all either the same or larger than the measurements for this shirt.

I'm kind of at a loss. i think its hard to give advice based on my body type and fotos. For example, my chest measures around 36-37. My first shirt started with a measurement of 20.5. I was advised to go down to 19 on my second. Based upon that, the last foto, I was advised to go down another .75" to 18.25". I think the chest measurements were good somewhere around shirt 1 or 2, but the actual place where the chest measurement is hitting me is closer to my sternum?

 

[alexSF]

Hi,

I've just discovered your Popover shirt, simply perfect details, I really really like it.

Any plan to do some new rtw versions for the upcoming seson, such as linen, cotton/linen, or piquet?

Thanks in advance

 

[ccallis]



EDIT: from here I went:
-0.75 chest
-0.75 waist
-0.5 sleeve width

@macjedi Could you send me the AC order # for your most recent order so I can see the measurements you have? Think what you have suggested is a good call, but I just want to double check against the measurements we have for you.

Chris

 

[ccallis]



Hi,

I've just discovered your Popover shirt, simply perfect details, I really really like it.

Any plan to do some new rtw versions for the upcoming seson, such as linen, cotton/linen, or piquet?

Thanks in advance

We won't do any RTW popovers--but you can always order any of our fabrics (linen, cotton/linen, cotton) as custom-fit popovers. Much better, IMHO.

We're actually going to be releasing a long sleeve Italian pique polo in the coming weeks, that'll be pretty similar to our popovers in design. Not exactly the same, but very similar.

Chris

 

[novaeagle]

Chris,

Just curious, if we normally go with a fairly slim fit for dress shirts, what size alterations would you recommend in the body for a popover? Obviously it would need more room to accommodate getting it on and off, but I'm curious what people go with, in your experience. Say, adjustment from your "super slim" fit?

 

[macjedi]



@macjedi Could you send me the AC order # for your most recent order so I can see the measurements you have? Think what you have suggested is a good call, but I just want to double check against the measurements we have for you.

Chris

Thanks!!! PM sent. I decided to hold off on the order till I can get some pics of the last shirt.

 

[Andrew Ryan]

Thanks to the guys who posted tie + jacket photos of the new Roma Spread. Got one formal white shirt in with it, and love the collar. However, wondering for you guys who have it - did you go up in collar size from the President Spread? Since the Roma sits higher on the neck, it seems to need maybe 0.25" + to keep it from pulling at the collar on me. Thinking of upping it next order but unsure.

A related question - do you guys think the Roma Spread would be appropriate with some of the more casual fabrics for tie-wear? I'm talking about the chambrays, flannels, oxfords, and the like. I don't care for the soft collar versions, but love the Roma Spread so much I think I want it for all my more casual/textured fabric shirts I wear with ties and sport coats (as opposed to dressier broadcloths for suits), whereas I've been using button-down collars strictly until now.

 

[Andy57]

Chris,

Just curious, if we normally go with a fairly slim fit for dress shirts, what size alterations would you recommend in the body for a popover? Obviously it would need more room to accommodate getting it on and off, but I'm curious what people go with, in your experience. Say, adjustment from your "super slim" fit?

I have two popover style shirts from Proper Cloth. The first one I had made in my regular measurements. It fits fine, but it is very difficult to get on and off. The second one, I added an inch (I think--might have been and inch and a half) to the chest size, waist size, and bottom opening size, and made the sleeves a little fuller. That turned out to be ideal. Much easier to get on and off and still a pretty nice fit. I made mine in one of their crisp white broadcloths and they are the perfect summer shirt. I used the soft Roma Cutaway. Very Byronic, very romantic look.

 

[Andrew Ryan]

@Sotiris - thanks for the pic of the Roma Spread. Are you wearing collar stays in that photo? The curved expression of it is fantastic; I have one shirt with that collar that doesn't seem to quite do that (may be the wrong size, I stuck with my normal pres. spread sizing and am going up .25" for future orders as the collar sits higher on the neck and is therefore a little tighter).

 

[Sotiris]

No, I never wear collar stays. I stuck to my usual collar size and don't find it too tight on me.

I think it should be a fine collar for casual cloths too if you don't want to go the soft ivy BD route. I haven't gotten a chance to wear them much but I am very pleased with this collar.