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nachobarro

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Good afternoon,

Asking for a bit of help here with an OCBD fit. This is how it fits after being washed twice:
IMG_2863.jpeg
IMG_2871.jpeg

IMG_2910.jpeg


Not a huge fan of the fit right now. The collar is too small if I button it up. The chest area it's more slim fitting than I would like and the sleeve cuff width it's too small. Also, it looks kind of weird from the back shot..
I'm after a more relaxed fit, but not too baggy or huge fitting like some old Brooks Brothers or J. Press from the 50's. I would like it to be versatile enough that I can wear it tucked or untucked.

1711902242110.png

This is what support has adviced:

- Increase the collar by .5"
- We can switch to a full shoulder/armpit fit if you'd prefer. This will give you a bit more range of motion, the trade off being the upper arm will look fuller and more "twisted". It will also raise the bottom of the armhole by 1/8".
- Reduce the midsection width by .4" (.8" in total circumference)
- We can increase the sleeve length by .2".
- Increasing the cuff around dimension will also add volume from the cuff to the elbow. We can increase the cuff around by .3"
- We can add a .25" watch allowance to the left cuff to help the cuff pass over your watch more easily.


I agree with all of them, but I'm a bit confused about decreasing the midsection though... What do you think?

Thanks in advance,

Nacho
 

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wozniak

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I am not sure about midsection either. I think your shoulder could be pulled back .20 each side.

It took me three shirts to get my size dialed in. The first one I had them remake, but by the third shirt I had it tailored and then adjusted my own measurements after that. Once a good tailor went over it - I could then measure that and adjust my measurements on line.

I would recommend all your shirts from now on have the "Standup placket" option chosen. If you wear your shirts without ties this will keep the collar from flopping over. Its just a little extra fabric to stiffen the upper shirt.

MTM has its limits - in order to have my shirt fit my body type (shoulder/arm pit) I have slightly baggy sleeves. You see PC and MTM have one measurement for the arm - and can't taper. Neither can suits. But as mentioned I have a tailor that can adjust my entire PC shirt to look like Bespoke for an additional 15 bucks if I want.

Lastly, a minor tip - there are Nude colored vneck undershirts available on Amazon. The brand I get is called "ALBERT KREUZ". Unlike white undershirts these are completely invisible under a dress shirt.
 

bpenchi

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I would say shoulders, chest, arm width, and cuffs need to be reduced.

The collar type also looks a bit big for your neck. The actual measurement looks fine, but the size of the collar looks big in proportion to your neck.

Would you suggest changing the Soft Ivy button down to the President button down, or the Colorado button down? I'd like to maintain collar role and a classic look, but am unsure of how small I should go with the collar style.

Also, does the lowered second button work visually on me, or should I bring it back up?

Attached are the relevant pictures again.
 

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abantigen

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Just wanted to share my recent experience with ProperCloth.

I'm coming from wearing 16-34 extra slim RTW shirts from Spier and Mackay. I was always unhappy with how my shirts didn't sit cleanly in the shoulders and had issues with fabric bunching up in the back of the neck but just lived with it because value from SM is pretty unbeatable.

I was visiting NYC last week and figured I would get measured in-store. Given the issues I had with RTW shirts I thought I might have to make some complicated adjustments to shoulder slope and neck posture or something but turns out I just had to bring in the yoke width a bit and it solved my issues. I guess I was just in between 15.5 and 16 in collar size. Coincidentally I tried on a 15.75 OCBD at Drake's and it fit really well.

It took only one week for the shirt to arrive in Toronto and I'm really happy with the result. I might make some small adjustments after washing it but it just feels so good to have a shirt sitting cleanly on your shoulders and I'm excited to slowly replace all my existing shirts with MTM.

For my first OCBD shirt it was a no brainer to go with a center box pleats with a locker loop just from an aesthetic detail perspective. I think my next shirts will be button down shirts in cotton-linen and chambray. I can't quite decide on no pleats or side pleats. Curious to know what people think is a better option for a casual button down shirt.
 

wozniak

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My shirts are either button down or hidden button down, no iron, with standup placket. I do really like the royal oxford shirts.
 

solid_olid

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Any suggestions for best proper cloth alternative to a one-piece collar? Bigger, rolls super well in an italian style worn without a tie under a sport coat? I am thinking soft roma or milano?
 

solid_olid

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Try soft milano, imo.

Maybe consider a soft President cutaway as well. Stands super nicely sans tie
Cool, thanks for suggestion. I was actually planning to order soft Roma to wear with tie first, which I think is about halfway between those? So I should get a pretty good idea
 

cuponoodles

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Y'all I would love to see an option for a 5-button front/shirt-jacket style (i.e. bigger buttons & buttonholes) for some of the thicker fabrics. Would be dope.
 

wozniak

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Love PC shirts, but with their suit I have had three remakes with little success in getting a good fit.
 
Last edited:

Rickr

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Love PC shirts, but with their suit I have had three remakes with little success in getting a good fit.

I have to agree. They've done really well with my shirts, but fumbled badly with trousers and jackets.

I'd give them another shot if they were local to me (DC Metro Area), but I'm not going to mail things back and forth when I have other good options here.
 

wozniak

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I have to agree. They've done really well with my shirts, but fumbled badly with trousers and jackets.

I'd give them another shot if they were local to me (DC Metro Area), but I'm not going to mail things back and forth when I have other good options here.
Thing is I flew to NY because I loved them so much for shirts, I wanted to get my suit measured there so I paid for a flight and hotel to do it. The fitting went well. I just don't understand how three different suits (with 2 different fit advice remakes) missed the mark so badly. Nearly all of them had Arm Hole and shoulder issues. However as usual their customer service was amazing, and took care of things.
 

TheLawBeard

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Thing is I flew to NY because I loved them so much for shirts, I wanted to get my suit measured there so I paid for a flight and hotel to do it. The fitting went well. I just don't understand how three different suits (with 2 different fit advice remakes) missed the mark so badly. Nearly all of them had Arm Hole and shoulder issues. However as usual their customer service was amazing, and took care of things.
I appreciate the feedback on this. I'd been curious about their suit/sportcoat fits but hadn't pulled the trigger. Do they use a lower armhole as is common in most OTR/MTM outfits? Or is it a more proper fitting higher armhole?
 

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