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db123456

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I've been thinking about using Proper Cloth to replace some of my "casual" shirts from J. Crew -- in part for a better fit, but mostly to improve on their wimpy collars. Is there a category of PC fabric that, with soft construction, would come close to J. Crew's "Secret Wash" shirts, of that J. Crew gingham shirt fame? I don't really understand what characterizes the J. Crew shirts, from a technical perspective -- if anything. (I'm referring to the shirts from a few years ago, before they started adding stretch to all of them.)

Relatedly, is is possible to specify the Button Down 2 collar style but with soft construction? I might like to try to slightly smaller scale of that option, but definitely would not want the smarter dress-shirt look.
 

saskatoonjay

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I've been thinking about using Proper Cloth to replace some of my "casual" shirts from J. Crew -- in part for a better fit, but mostly to improve on their wimpy collars. Is there a category of PC fabric that, with soft construction, would come close to J. Crew's "Secret Wash" shirts, of that J. Crew gingham shirt fame? I don't really understand what characterizes the J. Crew shirts, from a technical perspective -- if anything. (I'm referring to the shirts from a few years ago, before they started adding stretch to all of them.)

Relatedly, is is possible to specify the Button Down 2 collar style but with soft construction? I might like to try to slightly smaller scale of that option, but definitely would not want the smarter dress-shirt look.
As @StanleyVanBuren says, the Colorado button down is PC’s J. Crew collar. The Soft Ivy is more generous and grownup, though, so look at that one before you decide.

I think any of PC’s 100% cotton in plain weave or broadcloth will give you the cloth you want. Play with the very thorough filters and narrow down to exactly what you want.

I was a J Crew fan until I realized PC could make me a perfectly customized shirt for cheaper than J Crew charged for a shirt in limited styles and approximate S/M/L sizes that never really fit me.
 

db123456

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Thanks, guys.

Agreed on the Soft Ivy as an improvement over the Colorado button down -- I have a few shirts with the Soft Ivy collar, and as between the two I definitely prefer that option. And getting away from J. Crew's smaller collars is part of my objective here. I was just thinking it would be nice to try the Button Down 2 as an intermediate option size-wise, but only if it could be had with the softer construction.
 

paulraphael

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For whatever it might be worth, I like the Colorado button down on short sleeve shirts. I think it's a little too small on casual long-sleeved shirts. This is purely an esthetic judgment, but it's coming from someone who who doesn't like truly big collars (at least on myself).

Also fwiw ... I avoided the soft ivy collar for a while, because I'm allergic to anything that might be mistaken for preppy. But I tried it and am hooked. It's a really good looking collar (at least on me) and I love its versatility.
 

saskatoonjay

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I was just thinking it would be nice to try the Button Down 2 as an intermediate option size-wise, but only if it could be had with the softer construction.
That makes sense, but it’s not an option. PC has many options, but they won’t make you something that’s not already on the menu.
 

db123456

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That makes sense, but it’s not an option. PC has many options, but they won’t make you something that’s not already on the menu.
Fair enough. I suppose it makes sense to avoid secret off-menu options, special requests, etc. Especially since, as you note, there are tons of options on the menu.
 

yogibear_77

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Hi everyone - recently, I made my first shirt through propercloth - overall experience was pretty good and I received my shirt within 10 days. I was hoping I could get some commentary on the fit?

Fabric is a 50% Cotton/50% Linen oxford weave. Shirt has been cold soaked and hung dry (sorry didn't have time to iron).

Thanks everyone.

IMG_1133.JPGIMG_1134.JPG
 

FlyingHorker

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@Seph

Can you do differing sleeve lengths for a dropped shoulder?

For another maker, I'd request "wash and dry fabric before cutting", how does PC and shrinkage work?

What collar offers the best roll? Soft roma BD collar looks anything but soft. It looks very stiff.

Any "secret menu" options like extended point length?

What measuring option would be best for me? My hip and chest measurements are equal, and I wear shirts tucked/untucked.

My problem with shirts is they either catch on my butt and fit my chest, or too loose all around, or the silhouette looks like an hourglass.
 
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Seph

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@Seph

Can you do differing sleeve lengths for a dropped shoulder?

For another maker, I'd request "wash and dry fabric before cutting", how does PC and shrinkage work?

What collar offers the best roll? Soft roma BD collar looks anything but soft. It looks very stiff.

Any "secret menu" options like extended point length?

What measuring option would be best for me? My hip and chest measurements are equal, and I wear shirts tucked/untucked.

My problem with shirts is they either catch on my butt and fit my chest, or too loose all around, or the silhouette looks like an hourglass.
We don't currently offer different sleeve lengths for shirts.

Shrinkage is always a challenge - for many reasons. If we're using a fabric that is known to have shrinkage above the standard 2%, we will adjust the pattern in the length or width or both to try to compensate for this. This can cause some shirts to feel large right out of the box. We encourage customers to launder their shirt once before really evaluating the fit. Of course, how you wash and dry the shirt, whether you iron it, or take it to the cleaners - these can also have a big effect on the resulting fit. So we generally encourage customers to do what they will and then we can evaluate the fit afterwards and make adjustments relative if a remake is called for.

The Soft Roma and Roma are some of our largest collars. If you wear either with a jacket, the lapels will certainly push the collar into a generous roll. The soft version is certainly unfused, soft and pliable. Soft Ivy Button Down also gives a lot of roll.

We don't have secret menu options. What you see is what you get - but there is a lot to see :)

It sounds like you're relatively savvy about your shirts, so measuring a shirt you like the fit of already can be a great place to start. Given the challenge you describe, and wanting to wear the shirts untucked, I'd expect the trick will be getting the chest to fit relatively close but not overdoing how tailored you go at the midsection. I.e. don't make the midsection more than 3-4" smaller than the chest. Bottom width will get wider again of course - but likely doesn't have to match the chest width since the shirts will be cut shorter and the bottom will fall slightly above the widest point on the hips. Of course, everybody is different and you have to make changes as you apply this advice to your own situation, but we find that if you can get the chest/shoulders/arms to fit nice and slim, you should be able to let the midsection stay a bit looser, avoiding the hourglass shape, but keeping the overall fit of the shirt looking tailored.

If you contact the team they can look at photos, etc and advise with more specifics.
 

FlyingHorker

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We don't currently offer different sleeve lengths for shirts.

Shrinkage is always a challenge - for many reasons. If we're using a fabric that is known to have shrinkage above the standard 2%, we will adjust the pattern in the length or width or both to try to compensate for this. This can cause some shirts to feel large right out of the box. We encourage customers to launder their shirt once before really evaluating the fit. Of course, how you wash and dry the shirt, whether you iron it, or take it to the cleaners - these can also have a big effect on the resulting fit. So we generally encourage customers to do what they will and then we can evaluate the fit afterwards and make adjustments relative if a remake is called for.

The Soft Roma and Roma are some of our largest collars. If you wear either with a jacket, the lapels will certainly push the collar into a generous roll. The soft version is certainly unfused, soft and pliable. Soft Ivy Button Down also gives a lot of roll.

We don't have secret menu options. What you see is what you get - but there is a lot to see :)

It sounds like you're relatively savvy about your shirts, so measuring a shirt you like the fit of already can be a great place to start. Given the challenge you describe, and wanting to wear the shirts untucked, I'd expect the trick will be getting the chest to fit relatively close but not overdoing how tailored you go at the midsection. I.e. don't make the midsection more than 3-4" smaller than the chest. Bottom width will get wider again of course - but likely doesn't have to match the chest width since the shirts will be cut shorter and the bottom will fall slightly above the widest point on the hips. Of course, everybody is different and you have to make changes as you apply this advice to your own situation, but we find that if you can get the chest/shoulders/arms to fit nice and slim, you should be able to let the midsection stay a bit looser, avoiding the hourglass shape, but keeping the overall fit of the shirt looking tailored.

If you contact the team they can look at photos, etc and advise with more specifics.
Ah ok, hopefully that gets added in the future.

Will keep the shrinkage tolerance advice in mind as well. I usually cold wash and hang dry all collared shirts.

Soft Ivy Button Down sounds like exactly what I want.

A lot to see indeed, I'm actually overwhelmed by all the shirts and options!

What you said makes sense, my only concern is then the shirt being too short to wear tucked as well. I should elaborate and say I was seeking a hybrid fit between tucked and untucked. Sounds good though, I'll contact CS and see what they have to say.

Thanks for the thorough and prompt response man, I appreciate it.
 

FlyingHorker

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I run pretty warm, I'm guessing the great value "heavy oxford" will likely wear too warm?

The UI is really nice on this website.
 
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saskatoonjay

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I run pretty warm, I'm guessing the great value "heavy oxford" will likely wear too warm?
Their heavy oxford has a weave that lets it breathe, so it’s not too warm. One of my short-sleeve summer shirts is heavy oxford, and some people have summer popovers made from it. @mossrockss has been blogging about this great basic for years.
 
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FlyingHorker

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Their heavy oxford has a weave that lets it breathe, so it’s not too warm. One of my short-sleeve summer shirts is heavy oxford, and some people have summer popovers made from it. @mossrocks has been blogging about this great basic for years.
Awesome, thanks for the info man
 

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