Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[razl]

Definitely go with a normal placket and not french if you want your collar to stand.

This isn't necessary for makers with good quality collars; I exclusively wear french front shirts with substantial collars that stand perfectly fine (under a jacket or not) - Mazzarelli, Finamore, Barba, Borriello, Truzzi, Borrelli, Canali, etc.

Since it's been about 6 months or so since I last asked if PC had fixed this problem with their collars I was about due to re-ask it again (what, for the fourth time?), I see there's no need ... sigh. Apparently, their marketing is good enough to keep me hovering and hopeful. At some point I should give up.

 

[shirtsnob]

This isn't necessary for makers with good quality collars; I exclusively wear french front shirts with substantial collars that stand perfectly fine (under a jacket or not) - Mazzarelli, Finamore, Barba, Borriello, Truzzi, Borrelli, Canali, etc.

Since it's been about 6 months or so since I last asked if PC had fixed this problem with their collars I was about due to re-ask it again (what, for the fourth time?), I see there's no need ... sigh. Apparently, their marketing is good enough to keep me hovering and hopeful. At some point I should give up.

in theory I do understand how a placket could add structure, and help a collar stand...but as stated a well made shirt can do this w/ a french front.......

I love PC, but for me they have alot of voids in a few areas. I think they are best for the general shopper that want MTM.....but they are not great for a seasoned bespoke buyer trying a more affordable option

 

[cp3]

This isn't necessary for makers with good quality collars; I exclusively wear french front shirts with substantial collars that stand perfectly fine (under a jacket or not) - Mazzarelli, Finamore, Barba, Borriello, Truzzi, Borrelli, Canali, etc.

Since it's been about 6 months or so since I last asked if PC had fixed this problem with their collars I was about due to re-ask it again (what, for the fourth time?), I see there's no need ... sigh. Apparently, their marketing is good enough to keep me hovering and hopeful. At some point I should give up.

True. I've had success with ordering -.25 from my neck size for shirts I intend to wear open necked, though this limits versatility obviously.

Frustrating that there isn't an unlined roma cutaway, oddly enough I've found my Finamore shirts in this makeup stand up better than PC.

 

[ericgereghty]

This isn't necessary for makers with good quality collars; I exclusively wear french front shirts with substantial collars that stand perfectly fine (under a jacket or not) - Mazzarelli, Finamore, Barba, Borriello, Truzzi, Borrelli, Canali, etc.

Since it's been about 6 months or so since I last asked if PC had fixed this problem with their collars I was about due to re-ask it again (what, for the fourth time?), I see there's no need ... sigh. Apparently, their marketing is good enough to keep me hovering and hopeful. At some point I should give up.

I don't dislike PC, but it's a definite source of frustration. Night and day comparison to even a still mostly affordable option like MyTailor.

 

[Creasy729]

For whatever it's worth, I have tried the new Roma Spread collar with the new stiffer construction (think they made the change a little under/over a year ago, can't remember) and I think it stands up pretty well under jackets. It's shape also seems a bit improved, as the collar seems a bit taller. Not sure if that is an actual change they made though, or just my impression.

 

[aj805]

I've switched to using soft roma spread exclusively for all shirts--business, formal, casual...
They sit wonderfully for me by themselves without a jacket, and with a jacket they work perfectly open without a tie, and with a tie the points tuck in under the lapels nicely.

They don't stand as tall as some of the other maybe more popular ones, and being soft they don't give the total slick look (I'd starch them if I wanted something closer to that), but there is no collapsing and no fuss with these.

 

[razl]

I've switched to using soft roma spread exclusively for all shirts--business, formal, casual...
They sit wonderfully for me by themselves without a jacket, and with a jacket they work perfectly open without a tie, and with a tie the points tuck in under the lapels nicely.

They don't stand as tall as some of the other maybe more popular ones, and being soft they don't give the total slick look (I'd starch them if I wanted something closer to that), but there is no collapsing and no fuss with these.

That's hopeful, but one question - did you have the collapsing issue before with this or other collars? I ask only because some have said they've never had the issue which means, compared to me, there's something else about their/my situation that is different. If you clearly had it before and now don't, that's progress that might apply to me and others in a similar situation.

fyi: that's essentially the question I've asked before - for those who did have the collapsing collar issue, like me, are their collars/configs/improvements that have made it better and, if so, what are they? Up until now, I haven't heard a "Yes! Use this collar/config and it's no longer a problem!"

 

[aj805]

I have had that issue in the past with other collars, yes. I can't say that I ever figured out precisely why, just that I have had that issue with a variety of other collar, placket and fabric types but not with my soft roma spread shirts. I also don't wear broadcloths anymore, which is flimsy fabric but that's not it entirely as I'm sure I had experienced it with more substantial fabrics.

One thing about that collar is that it appears less tall up front than some others, and the extended points tend to curve and spread outward to form what almost looks like a kickstand, which may help sort of prop up the collar somewhat, but I'm not sure.

 

[razl]

@aj805 Thanks! Not quite conclusive enough for me to jump back in, but I appreciate the info and it might help others.

 

[saskatoonjay]

Well ****. That guy the Americans put in the White House is messing with us in Canada now, so I’m compelled to change my shopping habits. I’ve been resisting changing shirtmakers, but apparently it’s time to go to Spier & MacKay.

Any tips on transferring my PC size profile over?

 

[ccallis]

Hey SF--
Just wanted to make a little announcement...

For over two years, we've been working to develop a premium quality custom fit tailored clothing at an affordable price. And we're excited to let you all know that it will finally launch later this summer.

Our goal has been to take the same quality, value, and customer experience that we've achieved with custom shirts and provide that for custom fit suits, jackets, and trousers.

It's been a massive effort. Countless samplings to get the details just right. Complex technology to streamline the user experience and order handling. But we're confident the result will be well worth it.

We'll begin rolling out everything later this summer. To ensure everything is working perfectly, we will be making custom fit tailored clothing available to select customers in a controlled release.

If you’re interested in early access to the release, you can sign up here: https://propercloth.com/custom-tc/

 

[Burzan]

Speaking of tailored items...

Navy E Thomas navy summer basketweave Bedford Jacket.

This is my first time trying the jackets and I am quite impressed with the fit. I went with my normal size of a slim 40 and couldn't be much more happy with it. I'd say I can probably can wear this without any alterations at all, though I might let the sleeves out since they kind of pull up from the creasing. I'll try it with a few other shirts and decide.

The jacket is half canvased and unlined. It also has some light shoulder padding, which I was not sure how I would feel about but seems to really work quite well. The padding probably helps those of us with dropped or rounded shoulders so though I do typically like a natural shoulder I would say this still works wonderfully and isn't too structured looking.

The cloth is bonkers. It's E Thomas and a blend of wool/silk/linen/cashmere. I really love the look and feel of it. It has a really great weight that provides a nice drape to the jacket but also gives some really awesome creasing to the flex points. I think it's a cloth that is going to age beautifully.

I am very happy overall and I am all signed up to check out the custom fit tailored program in the coming months. Exciting stuff.

 

[saskatoonjay]

Speaking of tailored items...

Navy E Thomas navy summer basketweave Bedford Jacket.

This is my first time trying the jackets and I am quite impressed with the fit. I went with my normal size of a slim 40 and couldn't be much more happy with it. I'd say I can probably can wear this without any alterations at all, though I might let the sleeves out since they kind of pull up from the creasing. I'll try it with a few other shirts and decide.

The jacket is half canvased and unlined. It also has some light shoulder padding, which I was not sure how I would feel about but seems to really work quite well. The padding probably helps those of us with dropped or rounded shoulders so though I do typically like a natural shoulder I would say this still works wonderfully and isn't too structured looking.

The cloth is bonkers. It's E Thomas and a blend of wool/silk/linen/cashmere. I really love the look and feel of it. It has a really great weight that provides a nice drape to the jacket but also gives some really awesome creasing to the flex points. I think it's a cloth that is going to age beautifully.

I am very happy overall and I am all signed up to check out the custom fit tailored program in the coming months. Exciting stuff.

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Wow—the collar rolls so beautifully, too.

When you say 40 slim is your usual size, what suit brands do you usually wear? I’m too uncertain about fit to order a jacket from PC. Maybe someday I’ll try some on while I’m visiting NYC.

 

[Burzan]

Wow—the collar rolls so beautifully, too.

When you say 40 slim is your usual size, what suit brands do you usually wear? I’m too uncertain about fit to order a jacket from PC. Maybe someday I’ll try some on while I’m visiting NYC.

I haven’t tried a ton a tailoring but I’m a 40 slim in Spier & Mackey & an 40 in Rowing Blazers. My chest measures 40” though and I’d say the Proper Cloth jacket is TTS in that aspect.

 

[sjmin209]

How closely do the measurements match those listed on the site?