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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Seph, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. P12OFIT

    P12OFIT Senior Member

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    Has anyone else had issues with the collar collapsing under suit jackets when wearing these shirts without a tie? I've tried a bunch of different collars (English Spread II, Londoner, Hidden Button Down) and raised the top button by 1/2" but haven't found a combination that works for me. This is my largest hesitation with these shirts... any advice is appreciated.

    To be clear, the Hidden Button Down has pretty good staying power but it has longer than desired collar points and band height.
     


  2. razl

    razl Stylish Dinosaur

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    Yes, I've posted the same problem occasionally for the past 2 years - not to be a ninny, but because I was hopeful that the occasional collar revisions and stiffened/altered fused versions would have solved the problem; but I have yet to hear a single person confirm they had the same/similar issue and that with some revision/configuration it's been resolved.

    Which pains me because there's many fabrics that I like at reasonable prices, and all the other construction was fine - I literally want to give them my money, but after tossing three shirts with collapsed collars I'm just not willing to roll the dice any more.

    I'm literally subscribed to this thread mostly to see someone chime in with "Eureka! It's solved!" but I've all but given up hope.

    Maybe your post will elicit something that mine haven't...
     


  3. shirtsnob

    shirtsnob Senior Member

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    Ive been part of this thread at times.....


    I often wear soft pres collars and they NEVER stand up under a jacket....but Im not shocked as they are SOFT


    I would think its a black science/art that gets collars to stand erect w/o ties under a jckt?????
     


  4. razl

    razl Stylish Dinosaur

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    It's clearly not as easy as it looks, but - and without wanting to clutter up an affiliates' thread with name dropping - my Finamore, Barba, Truzzi, Mazzarrelli, Canali stable just don't have that problem at all. And they are the gamut of sizes, fits, construction, and collar types (height, spread, point length, tie space, etc.) so it's not like the desired outcome is a unicorn. But, conversely, each of the 3 PC shirts I had, which I think in included a President, Roma, and Roma Spread? - collapsed the same way. Perfectly proud when donning the jacket, and 5 seconds later, unflatteringly flat.

    Again, really not trying to pile on abuse, but rather hoping someone will say "That's exactly what happened to me too! But this new collar type with this new option and some tweak fixed it 100%!" so I can get back on board.
     


  5. shirtsnob

    shirtsnob Senior Member

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    Razi


    I totally understand....and it is frustrating

    you would think/hope PC did its homework ( or maybe they now will!!!) to see how these other brands make it work?

    its a kinda big deal to many of us
     


  6. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    Fwiw, I have some OLD Paul Frederick beater shirts that hold up under collars with no issue, and had also shown great collar resiliency (fraying, etc) despite having somewhere around quadruple the use.

    Frustrating, for sure.
     


  7. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Distinguished Member

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    Does anyone know how to fix that bump just above the belt? The waist is definitely not too small, in fact I have slimmer shirts that don't do this.

    IMG_6568.JPG
     


  8. shirtsnob

    shirtsnob Senior Member

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    besides shirt riding up, consider button spacing. But I dont think its specific to PC shirts
     


  9. TennesseeWill

    TennesseeWill Active Member

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    Out of trying a half dozen different collars, the only consistent non-BD collar to stand up is the Roma. Any variation. I had to raise the stance by .5", otherwise I'd get the bump below the top and 2nd button, but I never worry about collapse with that collar as seen in the pictures.

    Along the lines of ShirtSnob's black magic comment, I find no stays to be the best way to ensure there's no collapse.

    I haven't tried the Milano II, but reading posts, that seems like a safe bet as well.

    IMG_4265.JPG

    IMG_4277.JPG
     


  10. shirtsnob

    shirtsnob Senior Member

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    TWill

    that looks great BUT that will not stay up like that...no way........that to me is more of a moment in time where it is up...lol

    so does it really stay up for hrs at a time?...she wants to know....lol
     


  11. Teger

    Teger Stylish Dinosaur

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    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2017


  12. lawstudent91

    lawstudent91 Member

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    For what it's worth I just got a soft president spread with 0.5" raised button and soft placket and it sits up fine with or without stays. President spread II also does the trick as does button down II. May consider getting a Roma Spread as well but PResident Spread is just such a nice classic collar.

    Londoner II was so bad I had to return it.
     


  13. shirtsnob

    shirtsnob Senior Member

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    okokok..just ordered a 3 pleat cuff.....and it DID help my snug forearm issue!!!!!!!!!!!!

    the shirt is the navy teton flannel.......got a soft franklin collar, and 2 flap pockets.......grrrrreat.
     


  14. eddiemczee

    eddiemczee Senior Member

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    3 pleat cuff all the way. Without it, I'm sure my elbows would blast through my sleeves in less than 5 wears.
     


  15. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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