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Proper Cloth first shirt advice (with some pics)

alghul

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Hello,

I just received an MTM shirt from Proper Cloth. Since it's the first one I buy from them, it's obviously far from perfect so I will be asking for a remake. Once I am happy with it, I will use this shirt template on all the others so I want it to be as perfect as possible. Therefore, I would like options on the fit and what can be improved.I will be wearing it tucked with a jacket most of the time (the pictures are untucked to show the length).

Here is what I think is wrong with it:

  • The length is way too short. My stomach is showing if I lift my arms.
  • It is a bit too tight on the sides (ribs level).

What I would like advice on:

  • Are the sleeves too baggy?
  • What about the sleeves length? As you can see, they go a bit over my hand.
  • Are the cuffs too loose? As an example, I am able to just barely fit my hand inside the cuff without uncuffing it.
  • What about the collar? It does not feel too tight (I can pass 2 fingers) but there is a small gap when I move.

Anything else?

Thanks

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thumbnail_IMG_3848.jpg
 

Despos

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The shirt looks very good.
Let out the chest .5" on each side but let out on the front panels only, not the on the back panels
Add 2" to the length. It may shrink a little.
The collar size is just right. It will shrink a bit after laundering. You don't want it to hug your neck.
Sleeve length is pretty close to correct. It will shrink a touch.
Make the right cuff smaller so it stops on the break of the wrist. I don't like cuffs that are so large your hand passes thru when buttoned. Cuff feels sloppy and extends too far onto hand if it's that loose. If that's your thing then ok.
Adjust left cuff so it doesn't hang up on your watch. don't make it too small to accommodate the size of your watch.
 

alghul

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Thanks Despos for the reply. I forgot to mentioned in my original post that these pictures were taken after a wash. It indeed shrank a bit. It actually fits much better now than it did before I put it in the laundry.

  • Do you think the collar is still right or should I still remove something like 0.3'' ? The worst think would be to have a tight collar.
  • Would removing 0.5'' in both sleeve's length and width make sense?
  • Removing 0.10'' to the cuffs (while keeping the difference for the watch) a good idea?
 

Despos

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Would leave the collar as is. Do you ever button it or wear a tie with this shirt? If you don't, it doesn't matter.
.5" off the sleeve length is ok. Everybody checks sleeve length with arms extended at your side but as you wear the shirt your arms are bent or reaching most of the time. The extra length expands with movement and you need some play in the sleeve length.
Don't know how much 0.10" is. Do you have any other shirt cuffs that you like the cuff circumference? Copy those measurements.
 

alghul

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I will wear it with a tie most of the time so I will just follow your advice and let the collar as is.

Thanks again
 

Despos

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If you move the collar button .25" it will make the collar .5" smaller;
If you think the collar is too big. If you do move the collar button, the first and maybe second button along the placket should be moved to keep the line of the front placket straight.
Seeing one side of the collar isn't a good way for someone else to determine the collar size for you. I tend to be cautious because it's easy to take something in and not always an option to let something out. I don't know how the shirt fabric will respond to laundering multiple times.
 

Patrick R

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@Despos:

This rippling on the shoulder line near the collar remind me of what happens to me on my OTR shirts.

312A3CEA-4099-4874-A576-FA9499DF01AC.jpeg


For example, here’s the shirt I’m wearing today.

A3017904-F7C8-4B1E-9C67-15F09B019AA3.jpeg


I’m curious, if you were making adjustments to a pattern, how would you correct this?
 

Despos

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Shoulder line is not squared enough. Yoke needs to move forward.
 

Shirtmaven

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Self measured?
The shirt is completely out of proportion.
Yoke too wide, armhole too deep, sleeves too full, and too long,

What is your neck size? Slightly too large in circumference. That collar shape is too big for your neck.
Are you wearing a tie with this shirt?
You need darts in the back

Cuff is too large on right. ok on left. If that is the watch you plan to wear.

If I was making, I would shift more fabric to front chest and reduce the same from the back.

Just because you can type in .1" alterations doesn't mean it will make a difference.
What anal retentive styleforum wonk convinced someone at PC that .1" will even be noticed. Acceptable Sewing tolerance is more then 1/4" for most sewing operations
Oh yeah.. shirt is too short.. will you tuck in or leave untucked.
 

alghul

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@Shirtmaven

No, I was measured by a tailor and I planned to wear the shirt mostly tucked with a tie.

Would you mind developing on some of your suggestions?

  • Yoke too wide; how much would you remove?
  • Armhole too deep; how much would you remove?
  • Sleeves too full, and too long; I am thinking of removing 0.5'' in both length and width. Seems reasonable?
  • If I was making, I would shift more fabric to front chest and reduce the same from the back. Does adding 0.5'' to the front (as suggested above) and removing 0.5'' from the back makes sense?
  • What is your neck size? Slightly too large in circumference; I agree that is abit too large. After 2 washes, there is still a small gap which I am not a fan of. However, I am really on the fence whether to remove or not (afraid of the colar being too tight and having to send it back again). How much do you think I could get away with without the collar becoming too tight?

Thanks for the advices
 

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