Proper Balmoral Lace Gap Width? (Do These Shoes Fit?)

[Jared]

I've read in the archives that balmorals should have a 0.25" gap at the top of the laces when new. Being a Canadian, I have no idea what 0.25" means - rather than doing the conversion, I thought I'd just ask you guys.

Seriously, I see photos posted with larger gaps, so I want to bring the issue up again. I prefer to wear non-prescription orthodic insoles (Superfeet), so I can effectively adjust the height of my cone. The photos below are of brand new AE Westgates, which I can close completely without insoles. The photo with feet apart is full-length insoles, feet together is half insoles . Can you please tell me whether you think they look okay now and if not, should I break them in with that insole so they'll stretch?

PS: The lacing is Straight European, the knots are Ian's Secure, the floor is vintage.

 

[Tomasso]

They look fine. They'll probably close a bit more.

 

[luk-cha]

look ok to me! nice lacing

 

[chobochobo]

I would say that they're a touch small at the moment. Just a touch.

 

[Roger]

In my opinion, far too much space at the top of the "V" to look good--particularly on those at the right. I like the facings on my oxfords to be parallel when laced up, and if there has to be any "V" effect, I'd draw the line at 6 mm. (so stated for a fellow Canuck).

 

[zjpj83]

Most RTW shoes look like that on me because I have a very high arch.

A few lasts, like the 8000, fit me very well and close all the way.

 

[A Harris]

They look fine. I wish I could get my shoes to close that much. I have a VERY high arch.

 

[argoth]

The Allen Edmonds I own always have a larger gap than my other shoes. I actually initially prefer my shoes pulled so tight that I have no gap, so.. your shoes look a bit small to me.

Arg

 

[kronik]

Ironically, when I manage to find shoes that fit me - they close pretty much all the way as my feet are as flat as a board.

 

[Manton]

A little opening and no opening are both "proper." It just depends on what you like, and what the maker does. I agree that those shoes look fine. And in all likelihood, they will stretch a bit over time.

 

[JLibourel]

Tony Gaziano, who should know about these matters if anybody does, stated in an interview on the London Lounge that he considered a gap of about a quarter inch (6.35mm) at the top of the lacing to be optimal for balmorals. Complete closure, he stated, did not allow the shoe to "give" for expansion or contraction of the foot due to heat or cold.

 

[mendel]

Originally Posted by Jared

PS: The lacing is Straight European, the knots are Ian's Secure, the floor is vintage.

Since you mentioned it: I think you're tying granny knots instead of square knots. Try reversing the way you do the initial knot before you make the loops and see if that makes the loops of the finished knot perpendicular to your foot instead of trying to get parallel, and your laces will stay tied far longer.

 

[norcaltransplant]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

Tony Gaziano, who should know about these matters if anybody does, stated in an interview on the London Lounge that he considered a gap of about a quarter inch (6.35mm) at the top of the lacing to be optimal for balmorals. Complete closure, he stated, did not allow the shoe to "give" for expansion or contraction of the foot due to heat or cold.

I have low arches. My balmorals are closed by default. I actually add tongue pads to about half my collection to improve the fit.

For the original poster...
The shoes looks acceptable, though I echo the sentiments of other forum members and prefer less gap.

 

[sho'nuff]

the shoes look great. i have never seen westgates in black. theyre great.

let me say that there should not be such an emphasis on closed gap or spaced quarter inch or what have you, for proper fit.

proper fit should be measured more semantically : overall feel on your feet, do you feet feel comfortable? is there abrasion due to looseness? do you walk normally or do you have to adjust your gait due to heel slippage, extra length, etc.

the gap closure measurement should just be just an after the fact.

 

[Roger]

Originally Posted by diorshoe

let me say that there should not be such an emphasis on closed gap or spaced quarter inch or what have you, for proper fit.

the gap closure measurement should just be just an after the fact.
Well, I don't think anyone suggesting an ideal gap on the basis of esthetics is proposing that you degrade fit and comfort by trying to reach this ideal. I think it goes without saying that shoes that feel comfortable but don't look great are preferable to the reverse. In my opinion, one would be best off buying balmorals that were comfortable when the lacing was no greater than 6 mm. at the top of the V, so that the gap closure was not exactly "just an after the fact." If, however, one has shoes that are comfortable, but open to 12 mm., he should neither pull them so tight--to get to the 6 mm.--that they're uncomfortable nor get rid of them.