1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Proper attolini fit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MilanoStyle, Sep 3, 2004.

  1. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

    Messages:
    1,674
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2004
    I tried on Attolini suit.. I tried 44R and 42R. Most definetly, Attolini had the highest arm hole in any suits I have experience thus far. That said, when I tried on 44R, I felt it was nice and snug .. still I can see my upper arm bulging out little bit. Â When i tried on 42R, it fitted tight. Â I was not wearing any dress shirts, just wearing thin t-shirts and the jacketed fitted real tight. Â I can see the back seam ripples and under arm seam had kink. Â but waist line looked much better on 42R. I mean .. it is hard to describe all in words. Â but I am going to order Attolini on ebay soon .. and I was hoping some of you experts can give me help here.. BTW, this is the one like thus far: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws....97&rd=1 Thank you.
     
  2. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

    Messages:
    3,902
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2002
    Location:
    Northern VA, USA
    Well, I'll tell ya....I have one Attolini (Sartoria, of course) in navy blue, with a french blue pinstripe. Great suit, superb construction. With the exception of the jacket being a little longer than most 42regs I've ever seen, the construction is pretty impressive. the buttoning of the trouser configuration is particularly interesting. The chest and shoulders seemed pretty standard, but the high armholes did take a little getting used to (as did the slight puff of the neopolitian shoulders at the sleeve head). The three button model seems to roll very naturally down to 2 buttons, the hand stitching is pretty plain to everyone that sees the suit, and the fishmouth shaped breast pocket is pretty neat.

    I only wish....I could feel comfortable taking 1/2" off the jacket length somehow.
     
  3. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Senior member

    Messages:
    304
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Location:
    Burlingame, CA
    Looks like a beautifully crafted suit.  I like the high arm holes.  But the shoulders resemble those on my Brioni MTM (much too much padding for my taste) and the lapels appear to be notched at the wearer's earlobes.  (This might actually work on a normal-sized torso, but for the over-elongated. . . .)
     
  4. rsp1

    rsp1 Senior member

    Messages:
    210
    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2004
    Location:
    New York
    kidkim2 - I'm actually glad you brought up the lapel notches. Could you expand on your thoughts here. I particularly liked the fact that they were this high, unlike most other suits. It was my impression that a "proper" suit had much higher lapel notches (close to, or at, the neck) than usually found in the US.
     
  5. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,582
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2003
    Sounds like the size 42 does not fit.

    The appearance of the shoulder in that picture has more to do with the mannequin than shoulder padding. It's probably a very lightly padded shoulder.

    A high gorge is elongating. I like it, but I like it in conjunction with a shorter jacket. Many Italian brands, including Castangia and Attolini, like to combine a high gorge with a longer than usual jacket, for a VERY long look. I compensate by wearing a regular length, which looks perfect.
     
  6. Alias

    Alias Senior member

    Messages:
    1,536
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2003
    Location:
    Washington DC
    I also like high gorges on my jacket lapels. And, it just so happens that I also like the jackets short. It's a good combination to wear if you're shorter.
     
  7. water

    water Senior member

    Messages:
    389
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    I always check this seller's auctions as I keep hoping to latch onto a plain navy 40R with flat front trousers.

    I am very surprised that the majority of the Attolini suit trousers seem to be double-pleated. I thought pleats were way out of fashion in Europe right now, yet it seems that most offered by this seller are pleated.
     
  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    33,475
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    I really like the high gorge on those suits. Much more elegant and flattering to a nearly any physique than the low gorge American styles, which make you look like a congressman or other unsavory character.

    I'm pretty sure I know where those suits come from (a high end retailer in L.A.) that probably has enough clout (i.e. buys in enough volumne) to get the suits cut the way it wants.
     
  9. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Senior member

    Messages:
    304
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Location:
    Burlingame, CA
    rsp1--

    When I first saw this Attolini suit, I was dumbstruck by the height of the gorge.  Together with the high armholes and apparent overpadding, the gorge made the suit, as pictured, appear to me awkwardly, uncomfortably "at attention."  It's as if the photographer had neglected to remove the hanger. . . .

    But the comments of Alias and others have forced me to reconsider.  Not everybody is "over-elongated."  And for men of a more nearly normal size than I (43XL), those high notches might be just the thing.

    In other words, each of us is an utterly unique individual--and we shouldn't let the guidelines blind us to the fact that in the long run our clothing choices, too, must be unique.
     
  10. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

    Messages:
    3,134
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2002
    Location:
    Cygnus X-1
    Attolini uses minimal padding, actually. And a high armhole is much more flattering (not to mention comfortable and practical). Brioni also has a rather high armhole, as do certain Savile Row firms (Huntsman immediately comes to mind).

    koji
     
  11. pitonboy

    pitonboy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    48
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2004
    I actually have this exact suit. The shoulders are minimally padded. The jacket does give the impression of length but I like it that way. The cut of the jacket is such that I were a 42R with attolini and a 40R with everyone else.

    Incidentally, I took this suit to my tailor who has worken on a lot of Kitons and such and he made a special point of mentioning to me how well constructed this suit was.
     
  12. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

    Messages:
    1,674
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2004
    did you get the suit from worldsfinest ebay seller?

    on which side (left or right of the chest pocket) do the attolini jacket have the label sewed?

    Yes, the Attolini suit that i tried on had min. padding like my Armani suit, i think all Attolini suits have min. padding?

    I think i am gonna have to go with 44R, cuz I truely believe that 42 was too tight on me (I was not even wearing a dress shirt, just a thin t shirt).  With pants, I am going to try to un-pleat the plants .. so i get a nice flat front pants.

    I just got my Brioni back from tailor shop.  Very nicely done.  I absolutly love BOLD lines and cuts that Brioni creates.  I love attolini; it's soft and subtle but killer body conturing line ..
     
  13. pitonboy

    pitonboy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    48
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2004
    Yes, the suit in question (and the two other Attolinis I own) have all come from worldsfinest aka Ian, who is a pleasure to deal with. If you have questions about the fit, email Ian and he will help you out but I think the 44 is your ticket in this case.
     
  14. MikeF

    MikeF Senior member

    Messages:
    462
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2002
    You can't get the pants made into flat front pants without some rather substantial tailoring.
     
  15. Elio

    Elio New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2004
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    Hi guys, I've been reading this forum for a while now, this is my first post.
    About the fit of Attolini: I own a few of them (some from the Ebay seller in question), all 40R, and though the fit in the chest and shoulders is very consistent, they do vary quite a bit in jacket length.
    I've never seen flat fronted Attolini trousers, I think they either have one- or two pleats. I much prefer the single pleated version: very elegant cut and drape. I personally think non-pleated trousers would look a bit out of place with the classically cut jacket. (About pleats being out of fashion in Europe: yes they are, certainly in casual clothing. But virtually all Italian suits sold nowadays have single pleated trousers.)
    Construction-wise, I think Attolini suits are the best RTW suits by far. The cut and workmanship are flawless, quite a bit better than Kiton IMO.
     
  16. dorian

    dorian Senior member

    Messages:
    518
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    NYC/London
    The tailor at Vacca seemed to think that he would easily be able to make double pleats disappear, leaving perfect flat front Attolini suit pants.

    Go figure....
     
  17. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

    Messages:
    1,674
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2004
    MikeF, yes, it'll be a big job converting 2 or 1 pleated pants into flat fronted pants. But master tailor can accomplish this for $$.

    The particular Attolini I tried on came with flat fronted trouser. The trouser was also had narrower legs (I prefer straight cut).
     
  18. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,802
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2003
    If their alterations tailor is good, then this is certainly possible. It's a big job but certainly doable.
     
  19. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

    Messages:
    1,674
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2004
    But i cannot help to think that if one converts pleated Attolini pants into flat fronted Attolini pants by non Attolini tailor, do these pants still consider as Attolini garnmet?
     
  20. MikeF

    MikeF Senior member

    Messages:
    462
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2002
    I never said that it was impossible - merely that it was a substantial undertaking and one, depending on the skill of your tailor, rife with risk.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by