Proper Arm Mobility in Blazer (added fit pics)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by threeleggeddog, Aug 7, 2011.

  1. threeleggeddog

    threeleggeddog Senior member

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    I have a question regarding arm mobility in a blazer. I have heard that you should be able to cross your arms without too much constriction. However, I have a pretty muscular back and relatively medium chest (about 41 inch chest with a back that forms well- defined V up to my collarbone). As a result, it feels like almost no off-the-rack blazer is going to provide this much mobility.

    That said, I just ordered a blazer off Yoox which seems perfectly fitted everywhere, yet tight in the back/arms (this particular blazer is cut slim, which probably doesn't help). My gf thinks it fits nicely, but I'm not trusting her judgement here. What type of arm mobility is ideal? Also, what are your thoughts on fit for this blazer?

    http://s1129.photobucket.com/albums/m518/threelegged_dog/?action=view&current=399.jpg

    http://s1129.photobucket.com/albums/m518/threelegged_dog/?action=view&current=400.jpg

    http://s1129.photobucket.com/albums/m518/threelegged_dog/?action=view&current=401.jpg

    http://s1129.photobucket.com/albums/m518/threelegged_dog/?action=view&current=402.jpg

    http://s1129.photobucket.com/albums/m518/threelegged_dog/?action=view&current=403.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2011
  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    No comments on arm mobility other than that if you feel the jacket is constricting
    your (arm) movements, than it doesn't fit.

    More generally, it's too short and too close to the body for my taste. It'll look dated
    very soon because it looks trendy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2011
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you want a jacket that you won't feel with your arms extended, it won't fit or look right when you stand naturally. Do you really do anything for a prolonged time with your arms extended like that? The jacket seems to fit you well. If it binds you when standing normally, then you have a problem.
     
  4. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    ^Despos, I fooled around with a wool/lycra fabric (5% lycra I believe), that I could foresee solving the eternal problems of lounge coat arm mobility vs sleeve neatness... do you have any thoughts on this? The Savile Row tailor I used had never seen the fabric before and laughed it off, but said it might work.
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It should have some effect but as I have not used this type of cloth I couldn't say what or how much benefit the cloth will provide. Fit and then cloth structure are the most important.
     
  6. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    I don't think it looks too tight, but I agree it does look a little short. From the one side shot, it looks like the sleeves are longer than the bottom hem of the jacket, which should never happen unless you have freakishly long arms.
     
  7. threeleggeddog

    threeleggeddog Senior member

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    I appreciate the responses. I'll check with the length later tonight (I can't remember if the arms are longer than the jacket).

    Since I'm not planning on using this blazer for work, I'm not to concerned with a traditional cover-your-butt length, but don't want to look like pee-wee herman either.
     
  8. Bowtiedlad93

    Bowtiedlad93 Senior member

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    The jacket dose seem a bit short altogether but dose not seem to tight to me.
     
  9. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    yeah, if you're going for a trendy, casual look, then it's really not all that bad. The arm length could probably get shortened a bit too, to show more shirt cuff.
     
  10. threeleggeddog

    threeleggeddog Senior member

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    I checked out the arm length in a little more detail. While the arm is not longer than the fall of the jacket, the jacket falls about 1/4 way down my palm. Traditional fit is typically mid-palm - is that correct?
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2011
  11. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    Hell no.

    You need to have the sleeves shortened- they're far too long. They should stop at your wrist, and ideally some shirt cuff should show. The amount that people will say varies, anywhere from 1/8" (tiny) to 1/2". I personally get about 1/4". It's not something I'm exact on, since the sleeves on my shirts vary anyway, but the sleeve should not be extending down onto your palm. That's sure as hell not the traditional rule and sure as hell isn't the current one. It's common these days because there are a lot of people out there that have no idea that most jacket sleeves are cut long and intended to be altered, but it is not in anyway correct. Not to mention that it looks like crap no matter what the rule is. The cuffs of the shirt provide a little visual balance and order to the outfit, and too long sleeves- look like too long sleeves that are just going to get in the way.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2011
  12. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    If you're talking about the overall length of the jacket then it should, in most cases, reach your knuckles. Mid-palm would still be much shorter than usual. This can vary though, if you have unusually long arms.

    And, as mentioned above, if you're talking about the sleeve length they shouldn't be coming over your hands at all.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2011
  13. threeleggeddog

    threeleggeddog Senior member

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    I apologize for responding with language that could be taken multiple ways - I was definitely referring to the jacket length and not sleeve length.

    The sleeves are a bit long, but only fall 1/4 inch or so past my wrist. I do have a question with regards to tailoring sleeve length (and I don't think this question applies to this particular jacket). How much sleeve length can be tailored with ease, typically? At what point, if everything else fits well, do you give up on the jacket due to excess sleeve length issues?
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2011
  14. JamesX

    JamesX Senior member

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    It is more important that the length jacket cover your butt than it goes to your palm.

    The sleeve length is not the same as jacket length, since it needs to be at your wrist and not at your palm.

    From the pictures, the jacket is too short and the sleeve too long.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2011
  15. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    please embed your pictures, it makes it much easier.
     

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