• We would like to welcome Pete and Harry as an official Affiliate Vendor. Pete and Harry, co-founded by Erik (EFV) one of our long time members and friends, offers a wide variety of products, clothes, watches and accessories, antique, vintage, “pre-loved” and new - all at unparalleled prices. Please visit their new thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Problems with shoulder line in bespoke suita

DHKHEL

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
Hi guys,

I recently moved to Dhaka, Bangladesh for work and since my suits made for Northern European weather were not really suitable for the sweltering heat here, I decided to commission two Fresco suits from a local sartoria here. To put it short, I have not been at all happy with how the process has gone so far. As you can see from the photos below, the jackets in both suits seem off in multiple ways, particularly at the shoulder line. Being a total newbie to commissioning bespoke suits, I find it very difficult to instruct them on what should be fixed and how. Is the shoulder line too long or is the suit just badly cut for my shoulder line? Would really appreciate any tips from your end. Really hope the jackets are still salvageable.

Screenshot_20210612-070840_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20210612-070901_WhatsApp.jpg

Screenshot_20210612-070926_WhatsApp.jpg

Screenshot_20210612-070950_WhatsApp.jpg


Best regards
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
23,494
Reaction score
58,597
I agree those don't look good.

I'm very cautious about this stuff because

1) I am not a tailor. Few people on this forum are tailors. So often, the advice that you receive is from people with little to no technical background.

On very simple matters, this may not be such a big issue. But the more complicated the problem, you need some professional advice.

2) Even when you do receive good advice, you need someone skilled to execute.

If you've found someone good, they don't need your advice on how to fix the problem. If you haven't found someone good, then no amount of micromanaging is going to help. Often, micromanaging just ends up being a waste of time and adds frustration.

Personally, when I don't like a tailor's work, I try to evaluate my options. If it's a small thing, such as lowering the buttoning point or changing the lapel belly, I just figure I'll have them adjust the style on the next order. But if the suit turns out to be technically bad, I may politely raise the issue with the person. If it doesn't get resolved, I just end up taking my money elsewhere. Ultimately, I think you have to find a good tailor who can do the technical work for you. This is not so much online, but the person who is going to lay their hands on the garment.
 

DHKHEL

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
I agree those don't look good.

I'm very cautious about this stuff because

1) I am not a tailor. Few people on this forum are tailors. So often, the advice that you receive is from people with little to no technical background.

On very simple matters, this may not be such a big issue. But the more complicated the problem, you need some professional advice.

2) Even when you do receive good advice, you need someone skilled to execute.

If you've found someone good, they don't need your advice on how to fix the problem. If you haven't found someone good, then no amount of micromanaging is going to help. Often, micromanaging just ends up being a waste of time and adds frustration.

Personally, when I don't like a tailor's work, I try to evaluate my options. If it's a small thing, such as lowering the buttoning point or changing the lapel belly, I just figure I'll have them adjust the style on the next order. But if the suit turns out to be technically bad, I may politely raise the issue with the person. If it doesn't get resolved, I just end up taking my money elsewhere. Ultimately, I think you have to find a good tailor who can do the technical work for you. This is not so much online, but the person who is going to lay their hands on the garment.
Thank you so much for your quick reply! What are the main issues you see in the fit of the suit? I will try to point them out to the tailor and hope the issue gets fixed.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
23,494
Reaction score
58,597
Thank you so much for your quick reply! What are the main issues you see in the fit of the suit? I will try to point them out to the tailor and hope the issue gets fixed.
Big caveat here that I am not a tailor. But here are my views. The problems are in increasing order of importance.

1. The patch pockets look oddly placed to me, but this seems like a minor issue. I'm personally used to having them lower on the jacket.

2. The back of the trousers also looks like they need to be cleaned up. It looks like maybe the back rise is too long and thus you have a lot of fabric collapsing underneath the seat.

3. I generally like an extended shoulder line, but the waist on this coat looks very suppressed compared to the shoulder. It looks to me like the shoulder line is too extended. I also see the shoulder dipping at the ends as a result. From my experience, this usually happens when the shoulder is both too softly constructed and too extended. Essentially, with not enough support, the shoulder ends up dipping.

That said, in my experience, this is common with certain tailors when you're going in for the forward fitting. Tailors often make things a little too big, rather than too small, as it's easier to chalk things up and take them in. I find this is truer of Italian tailors; British tailors in my experience seem to be more precise in the pattern drafting process. So it depends on the tailor's methods.

I wouldn't necessarily dismiss a tailor over this, but I would politely ask them about the issue if you're worried. For what it's worth, I've always just stood still at forward fittings and answered their questions. I only give input when asked, and generally, only pay attention to things such as whether the chest feels comfortable when I move around and if the length looks good. Also the button placement. These things are hard to change at the final fitting.

Points two and three above are things that I often experience in forward fittings. I rarely say anything, as I trust the tailor will deliver a good garment. I only become concerned if these things arise at the third fitting.

4. But the biggest problem, to me, is the shoulder line. There's something very lumpy about that shoulder line. I'm not a tailor and don't know how to address this. If I saw this at a forward fitting, I would be concerned. Unfortunately, I don't have any suggestions on how to fix this, but I would bring it up politely with the tailor.
 

DHKHEL

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
Big caveat here that I am not a tailor. But here are my views. The problems are in increasing order of importance.

1. The patch pockets look oddly placed to me, but this seems like a minor issue. I'm personally used to having them lower on the jacket.

2. The back of the trousers also looks like they need to be cleaned up. It looks like maybe the back rise is too long and thus you have a lot of fabric collapsing underneath the seat.

3. I generally like an extended shoulder line, but the waist on this coat looks very suppressed compared to the shoulder. It looks to me like the shoulder line is too extended. I also see the shoulder dipping at the ends as a result. From my experience, this usually happens when the shoulder is both too softly constructed and too extended. Essentially, with not enough support, the shoulder ends up dipping.

That said, in my experience, this is common with certain tailors when you're going in for the forward fitting. Tailors often make things a little too big, rather than too small, as it's easier to chalk things up and take them in. I find this is truer of Italian tailors; British tailors in my experience seem to be more precise in the pattern drafting process. So it depends on the tailor's methods.

I wouldn't necessarily dismiss a tailor over this, but I would politely ask them about the issue if you're worried. For what it's worth, I've always just stood still at forward fittings and answered their questions. I only give input when asked, and generally, only pay attention to things such as whether the chest feels comfortable when I move around and if the length looks good. Also the button placement. These things are hard to change at the final fitting.

Points two and three above are things that I often experience in forward fittings. I rarely say anything, as I trust the tailor will deliver a good garment. I only become concerned if these things arise at the third fitting.

4. But the biggest problem, to me, is the shoulder line. There's something very lumpy about that shoulder line. I'm not a tailor and don't know how to address this. If I saw this at a forward fitting, I would be concerned. Unfortunately, I don't have any suggestions on how to fix this, but I would bring it up politely with the tailor.
Excellent! Thank you so much!
 

BPL Esq

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
299
Reaction score
383
It sort of looks like there is a ton of padding in the shoulders that is causing them to bulge in an odd way and then drop off at the ends. I'm also not a tailor, but my guess about where your actual shoulders are makes me think they beefed up and extended the shoulders too much.

The other stuff is much more minor and has been noted.
 

maxalex

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
686
Reaction score
358
Welcome to the special hell of bespoke tailoring in the developing world! I speak from experience, having lived in West Africa for four years where I commissioned many suits from local tailors. Often they had no, or at best sporadic, electricity. Sewing machines were powered by feet; irons had a compartment for lumps of hot charcoal.

It was fascinating to watch but the results were always disappointing. On the plus side everything was dirt cheap so no big loss, and I was happy to support the local craftspeople. I came to realize that some things were just beyond their skill set and couldn’t be fixed.

Like shoulders. That was always the Waterloo, and it looks like you’re in the same boat. The humpback line of your shoulders suggests that the tailor is not working confidently in this difficult area. As others noted, you should point out the problem; with luck he’ll be able to re-craft them properly. But from my experiences in Africa, I would start with limited expectations and hope to be surprised.

I’m curious what a bespoke suit costs in Bangladesh. And where is the fabric from? (Keeping in mind that origin labels in the developing world are regularly faked.)
 

Parmesan

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
11
Reaction score
3
I have seen a similar issue with a suit that was made in Thailand, which was actually not that cheap. That particular suit was a fused construction, and had some padding/structure in the shoulders of lower quality to keep the prices down. Some tailors take advantage of customers/tourists who are not overly interested in the suit construction, materials used etc. and don't necessarily know what to ask for, and what to expect.
Are your suits constructed with a floating canvas (half/full)?
I'm not a tailor, nor do I know how to properly correct this. However, I would have asked for the shoulders to be reconstructed, preferrably without padding and structure as the fabric will follow your natural shoulders better than when trying to structure the shoulders with whatever material they use at the tailor, hopefully making the shoulders appear less bulky.

Secondly, this may be the "house style" of the tailor, meaning this is how they cut and make the suit. Research about the house style/previous work has to be made when making a suit to know what you can expect from the tailor when the suit has been finished.

Also I'd like to add - refrain from ordering more than 1 suit at a time, especially if it is a new tailor. This way you can change the pattern and make corrections for the next suit.

Please post some pictures when the suit has been finished as I'd like to see the finished product.
Best regards
 
Last edited:

DHKHEL

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
Hi guys,

Glad to see the interest everyone is taking in this process. The suit is made with a full canvas construction from Huddersfield Fresco Lite fabric. I have no reason to believe the fabric would be fake as it took a good three weeks for it to arrive into the country and it has all the distinctive qualities of a Fresco fabric (e.g. hard, "dry" feel to the hand; relatively heavy weight yet a very open weave).

Dhaka has next to no tourists and the clientele of the place comprises of the city's sizable, quality conscious upper and middle classes, which seem to hold the place in high regard and would definitely not be as easy to fool as your average backpacker buying a 24-hour delivery suit on a trip to Thailand or other touristy place in East or Southeast Asia.

The reason I commissioned two suits is because they had a "Get 2 for the Price of 1" deal for a limited time. I thought even if the jackets do not turn out great, I will at least likely get two pairs of summer pants in high quality fabric from the experience. What I am frustrated with is that they jumped straight into making both suits, instead of waiting until the first suit was refined as good as it could be.

The place is very active on social media and I have not seen other suits displayed there having the same shoulder problems. Some of the lumping may be caused by my somewhat tricky body type, as I have a straight, "boxy" shoulder line yet pretty protruding collarbones.

I think they have quite a few tailors on duty though and it seems I may have also just gotten unlucky with the one assigned to me. He has not taken an active role in the fittings and I have had to point out all the problems myself. This is frustrating for a novice like myself, as I cannot often immediately point out where the problem lies when a suit looks off. Many of the issues I have been able to identify only after looking at the photos after leaving the shop.

I have asked the owner of the place to be present in the next fitting. Hopefully he will be able to provide me with more guidance and instruct the tailors to fix these issues. I will definitely keep you updated!
 

LessIsMore233

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2020
Messages
24
Reaction score
1
my thoughts are you can't find online opinions for this thing
as......u really think members in here to tell u how to amend this suit?
not just here slimmer, longer there
but detailed instruction on which area to "do what"
u understand?

tailoring a suit require that tailor's skill, and it's really not some broad opinion can help

just my 2 cents, hope u forgive if I seems too aggressive
 
Last edited:

DHKHEL

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
my thoughts are you can't find online opinions for this thing
as......u really members in here to tell u how to amend this suit?
not just here slimmer, longer there
but detailed instruction on which area to "do what"
u understand?

tailoring a suit require that tailor's skill, and it's really not some broad opinion can help

just my 2 cents, hope u forgive if I seems too aggressive
Well, considering the excellent responses I have gotten above, I would beg to differ. Of course it is the tailor who has to ultimately identify the source of the problem and fix it, but your comments have certainly helped.
 

LessIsMore233

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2020
Messages
24
Reaction score
1
Well, considering the excellent responses I have gotten above, I would beg to differ. Of course it is the tailor who has to ultimately identify the source of the problem and fix it, but your comments have certainly helped.
actually there's 2 kinds of situation in these less educated places
either they just can't do it
or, they don't want to do it

they don't want to becoz we haven't paid enough money for a more premium kind of goods we want
 

LessIsMore233

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2020
Messages
24
Reaction score
1
from my knowledge I can tell u one thing :
there is at least 3 locations that is almost connected together and can't be amended one without changing the others
1. how tight it wraps your chest, that is about the location of your nipples, up and down
2. how ur shoulders connect to arms, that seaming u may think it is what matters, actually it's not
it is affected by the shape of the whole suit
3. the area around ur neck and at the back below ur neck

at least all these 3 are affected by skills of the tailor
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Sneakers with tailoring: yes, no, maybe?

  • No, never.

  • Yes, it can be done tastefully.

  • Not sure.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
464,561
Messages
10,034,731
Members
209,568
Latest member
first48
Top