Problems with Sebago shoes.

[Manuel]

This is a repair of the most complicated that can be made, they are Sebago shoes with sewn "goodyear" perhaps the highest range of this factory.

For the customer was a big problem, the shoe was with two places, was narrow and small and therefore unbearable to wear, was rubbing on heel and the foot did not enter to the bottom, I was attracted more the idea of giving life to These shoes make a few new ones, well ...... .which I set out to give you solution.

I had to disarm them completely, I have omitted the complete process of taking measures, testing and arrangement of lasts

Remove welt for reuse....

To be continue.....

 

[Manuel]

These shoes are mounted to the edge of the fabric wall that sticks to the floor, that meant that there was no "cut" to work, in addition had to get 0.7 0.8 mm minimum to all around and that in a cut of 1.8 mm ... It was practically impossible, failure could be served.

In the following shots it can be seen, as once the last and insole in 100% vegetal tanned neck leather have been prepared, the cut does not arrive, moreover, there is much more than I had imagined .......

You should note well where you are the holes of the previous mount; Because all that had to win to reassemble it ...... and I had to do it by nailing through the same holes since if it stuck in other places I ran the risk of cracking and weakening it in excess ...... ..but the heel was the worst ...... .It was not here.

 

[Manuel]

The cut or the "upper" as you say, is of excellent quality, veal oiled and exceptional lining in beef.

Another huge problem was the heel, if you look carefully, you will see the height mark of the last, the shoe had been mounted underneath in factory, so there was no room to remove what was missing and try to mount it above, personally I always climb above 0.5-0.6 mm, I like the shoe to reach its place and not the feeling that half of the heel is left out.

It was necessary to have a lot of imagination and open the trunk of the "grandfather's recipes" or literally, the skills and knowledge of teachers already missing......

I prepared the abutments in a neck of sole of vegetable tanning, I prepared them and proceeded to the assembly.

To be continue.......

 

[Belfaborac]

Very interesting. Looking forward to the next instalments.

 

[Manuel]

Very interesting. Looking forward to the next instalments.

Well, more pictures.......step by step

The mount did not do it on its definitive insole, I used a 5 mm soles croup as a provisional insole, if I managed to "turn them" would have many possibilities of saving them since to that bulk would have to deduct 2.5 mm and that would facilitate me to reach the minimum Of assembling with guarantees, so, I immersed them in a solution and I left them until they were a little wet.

To remove what was missing from the heel I disarmed the back strip and let them "in their air"

Once in place, they had to re-sew their strip, they had to be removed again from its last already taken to its place and with margin for the mounted.

To be continue......

 

[Manuel]

It was very difficult to add the stops, or as you say "reinforced toe puff" of course in neck 1º vegetal tanning, but in that area there was something more of margin so it was not so complex.

No no I did not finish seeing it clearly ...... ..and I always do my job ...... ..but this ...... ..I did not get it my duty was to provide other shoes in the same conditions and for the price of the repair of These ... ..as quickly I copied and cut the pattern to make others and ...... "hands down ......"

To be continue.....

 

[Manuel]

I always work alone, I have no problem to cut any model, sewing machine or any operation related to the footwear to measure, make shapes .....

I looked for something greasey and found a skin with almost the same thickness and good quality, this type of skins is very used to make leather bags for the tools of the formers, (pliers, hammer, nails ...) a little rough And less flexible, but with guarantees.

Cutting the paper cut.....

Cutting soft calf leather upper.....

 

[Manuel]

Now I was much better, since if I could not fix them I would get out of trouble and have my "ace" saved and ...... devils! They really looked pretty good.

Um ...... The vibe in the back ... it was not to my liking I saw something "rough" so I changed the eyes and hem, now yeah, now they were to my liking.

To be contiune......

 

[Manuel]

The shoes were really nice! ...... once started the job ...... .How would they fit in black calf? ...... ..I'll make another
... ..

The problem with these shoes is they have a lot of work in the recess, (I always recess by hand with the blade) if it is not done well the splices are horrible.

To be continue.......

 

[GBR]

While there is considerable skill involved in your work thus far, is it actually worth it and would the owner not have been better served by
purchasing a new pair?

 

[Manuel]

We forget the reality, now it is really working, Hand Sewing: In both welting and sole stitching, the stitches are made by passing the threads, from both sides of the work, through holes made by an awl, ensuring that each stitch is cushioned by the leather (unlike machine stitches which lock around each other at a tight radius, leading to wear through friction – see illustration below). This hand sewing process, the hallmark of bespoke shoes, dates from the 16th century.

Here the difficulty increased since I was going to use the same welt, this forced me to sew by the same points and try not to pierce the cut, something very very complicated.

The beginning was to replace the insoles used for the provisional assembly and to place the definitive ones already in process of arrangement.

Hand sewing by the same points and to 360º.

Well, well, I had saved one, perhaps the most complicated, now there was the other ...maybe....... .I would not have to give the customer a new pair .....

 

[Manuel]

While there is considerable skill involved in your work thus far, is it actually worth it and would the owner not have been better served by
purchasing a new pair?

Thank you very much.
I know my english isn`t very good I hope you can understand me,
With a new pair bought in store the customer would have the same problem, the customer does not have both feet equal, he has a difference of 0.8 mm in width between the right and left.

The price of a new pair bespoke shoes is between 450-600 euros, a repair of this type around 300-350 euros, is a considerable difference and if I decide to fix them the customer has a good shoes to measure With a guarantee for about 300-350 euros, a price well below of new bespoke shoes.

 

[Manuel]

The other shoe......

Good! Now...... I was beginning to see it more clearly .......

 

[Manuel]

Placement of metallic steel shafts and fillings ... ..

Placement of midsole ...... ..and ready to hand sewing! This already seemed a good arrangement ...

 

[Manuel]

Hand sewing

Here you can see the difficulty of reusing everything, this left me with no margin of error, even prevented me to review for some sites since the welt had previously been adjusted and reviewed in the factory ... .but we would invent something! .......