Problems with a strong chest

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stugotes, Apr 14, 2012.

  1. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    Hi everybody,

    I talked to a bespoke tailor yesterday, because no suit fits me off the rack. I guess I got a freaky body in some way, as my suits always do this:

    [​IMG]

    (Posture exaggerated to display the problem)

    Am I correct in assuming that this happens b/c the jacket is too tight in the chest? I have a rather broad chest compared to my shoulders, so RTW suits that fit well in the shoulder won't fit in the chest. TF suits are a sole exception, as they kinda fit an atlethic build, but they're not perfect either and thus way too expensive to not fit perfectly.

    So, with a strong chest (and shoulders a little off in relation) and also a very(!) slim waist, can a bespoke tailor pull this off? With all my questions about the garments he uses and stylistic details, I forgot to ask him... ahem...
     


  2. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    Same here. What suit is that?
     


  3. johnny_flapjack

    johnny_flapjack Senior member

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    A bespoke tailor can pull off most anything.
     


  4. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    I'd think a tailor could handle this easily on a bespoke jacket.
     


  5. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    ...ok, I was asking to make sure that it won't be too much of a hassle later on in the tailoring process.

    Suit is Gucci.
     


  6. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    A RTW suit may be a different story. I'd think one cut for an athletic build would provide the best fit.
     


  7. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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  8. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    ahem...........is the Pope Catholic?

    Make sure you go to a reputable tailor.

    Lots of people claim to be bespoke tailor.
     


  9. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    He's he only one in town, as far as I know. He doesn't have a website or even email address and does everything on the premisses. He's the cutter and has four other assiociates. I talked to him for a while, he offers MtM and Bespoke, told me the Bespoke ones are hand sewn and nothing's fused. He took over the business from his father, yadda yadda yadda.

    Being German, there aren't so many real master tailors around and going to London or Italy is a matter of cost.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    RTW won't accomodate this. You may measure 42 but the girth of your front chest may need to be cut the same as a 44 or even 46 to give enough cloth to cover your chest and some cloth taken off across the back.
    44 front width and a back width of a 40 = 42 chest but you need more cloth across the front and less elsewhere. If you buy the bigger size to cover your chest the jacket is too large elsewhere and not easy or possible to alter.

    The best part of getting a bespoke grade suit is if the tailor makes his own canvass. He can create more shape in the canvass to lay smoothly over your chest. This is the most important element to fit a full chest. It is a superior solution, even over going MTM where they would use a ready made canvass.
     


  11. Jackie Treehorn

    Jackie Treehorn Senior member

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    Tight chest waxin', playa.
     


  12. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    My skin area is blurred btw.
     


  13. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    At least in the US one can can find many offerings in RTW that are cut more generously than the contemporary
    "slim suit". These can be altered to accommodate your build. I have the same problem and when I was your
    age I had what is called and "atheletic" build. I wore 42 R(US) with a 33-34 inch waist. I now wear 44R,
    in Belvest, Isaia, Partenopea, Battistoni. All fit with minimal alterations.
     


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