Probably embarassingly basic denim Q

[Lucky Strike]

What's the stripey effect that appears in some denim over time, and how is it achieved? Has it anything to do with being "ringspun", or am I completely off the mark? This is what I mean:

 

[denimdestroyedmylife]

that is an effect of the weave, not how the yarns are spun.
sorry, charlie, i'd expand on that if i could, but that is the limit of my brain.

 

[thereverend]

Are those wranglers? I didn't know that Wranglers would do that. I think it has been discussed before. If I remember correctly it has something to do with the fact that some of the yarn is thinner than the other parts. If you look up close the parts that stay dark will look like smaller threads and the parts that turn white or get very light are fatter and thus wear more quickly. I don't really know if this is correct, I think this is what the conclusion of the discussion was last time this came up.

 

[denimdestroyedmylife]

huh.

it does look like a broken twill, so wrangler would be a good guess.

i doubt there would be much variation in thread thickness with wrangler jeans. i am guessing that stripiness is a result of some of the vertical threads being raised.

 

[Lucky Strike]

They're Nudie Slim Jims, I think about three-four years old.

 

[denimdestroyedmylife]

so those must be the broken twill jims...

those are nice! did you buy 'em raw?

 

[Lucky Strike]

They weren't raw - probably something like one-wash, or whatever the Nudie equiv. is. On second thought, I'm not sure they're Jims or Svens, as they were bought before I paid any much attention to "premium" denim. Please diagnose:

 

[sbbbjm]

those are jims - - - the legs look too skinny to be svens

 

[cultpop 0217]

they are jims. you can tell by the outseam. the svens have a felled (usually selvedge) outseam. the broken twill looks nice.

 

[denimdestroyedmylife]

yeah, they look good. did you guys hear tobe from mynudies passed away?

 

[watchman]

i believe the effect you're referring to is "vertical falling". It doesn't seem too pronounced in those jeans, but the stripey effect seems consistent with that. It is an effect of something called structure denim, where the weft is more raised i believe.

 

[Lucky Strike]

Originally Posted by watchman

i believe the effect you're referring to is "vertical falling". It doesn't seem too pronounced in those jeans, but the stripey effect seems consistent with that. It is an effect of something called structure denim, where the weft is more raised i believe.
Thanks all, for answering - pity this effect doesn't have a well-known term - I've never heard about "vertical falling" before, not that I'M knowledgeable about denim at all, though. Slim Jims they are. When I bought them, I just tried them on without asking their name, so to speak. Very happy with them, they've led to several other Nudie purchases. Another question - does any particular label have this stripey effect, just more pronounced?

 

[beefcake]

Originally Posted by Lucky Strike

Another question - does any particular label have this stripey effect, just more pronounced?

yes! ETERNALs are made of said "structure denim" and has intense and beautiful vertical falling over time. check this out: Holy Grail Eternal 811s

teaser:

 

[denimdestroyedmylife]

Originally Posted by Lucky Strike

Thanks all, for answering - pity this effect doesn't have a well-known term - I've never heard about "vertical falling" before, not that I'M knowledgeable about denim at all, though. Another question - does any particular label have this stripey effect, just more pronounced?
vertical falling is sort of an engrish term. translations of a japanese denim fading report reads "color falling diary" so FALLING = fading thus, what we are really talking about is vertical fading i'm not sure that the stripiness of the jims is because it is structure denim like the 811's; maybe darker warp threads are interspersed with lighter warp threads so that when the jeans fade, the lighter threads get even lighter, while the darker threads retain more color, yielding the stripey effect. if you are looking for stripey jeans-----check out sugar cane hawaii's, in particular the sc40400n:

if you are looking for structure denim, eternal 811s, as beefcake said, is a textbook example.

 

[ringring]

Yeah, 'Vertical Falling" is just a bad google translation for vertical fading

This is indeed caused by the ringspun yarn. If you can picture all the vertical yarns in a loom (warp yarns - the indigo carrying threads) are all spun in a way that the yarn is uneven. So it means that on the surface of the fabric some of the vertical yarns will stick out more than others. These will be the yarns that get subjected to abrasion first.

So what you will get is some vertical faded lines.

The first pic, by the way, is the broken twill.

And DDML's pic of the Hawaii's is an example of a mightypair of jeans.