A couple years ago I set out to buy a suit and after about a hundred hours of research, mostly here and at AAAC, and felt I had a good grasp on what to look. The need for a "Beginner's Guide" occurred to me but, along with many of my writing projects, "The Suit Primer" fell by the wayside.
In response to an inquiry about a jacket I have in B&S I replied, "If so I'd like to offer some advice. First, SF is full of information. Take time to research and study here. I'm going on 2 years and learn every visit. Second, take your time and finally buy quality pieces that fit.
"Nothing else matters if you can't make it fit. When you find a piece like this, no matter how much you like it, it will never be worn if you can't get a tailor to make it fit. Word from a learned SFer, you don't want to be messing around re-selling or giving away clothes. Know your measurements and get accurate ones from Sellers.
"As far as jackets go, for all intents and purposes the shoulders and chest can not be altered. The length maybe an inch or so...sometimes. I can't stress it enough that fit is king. A great fitting Calvin Klein will look better than an ill-fitting Kiton."
So that is the synopsis of "The Suit Primer". Ironically I have a closet full of great jackets that are off in one way or another because "even though the lapels are a bit too wide, I can make it work," or some such thing. I'm closet cleaning and have too many perfect clothes...except for the one thing that means I'll never wear them
So without further ado, for the benefit of the guy that's going to buy my Vestimenta, and hopefully you...the readable drafts of "The Suit Primer"...completely unfinished and unedited. Hopefully one day it will be complete. As always, I look forward to your responses, advise and opinions. thx, Faded
Suiting oneself is at the same time both very simple and overly complicated. The clothes we wear reflect our personal style along with our mood (or purpose). Traditional wardrobe is important to the discussion of suitings as it provides the framework for how we dress today. "Rules" based on tradition are derived from centuries old European practices and most contemporary American men do not know these rules, much less follow them. The more valid rules are those that address fit, fabric, colors and the type of suit that is appropriate for your particular frame. The most important thing is that we understand what our clothing relays to others and that we dress as to feel comfortable and confident.
This guide is broken down into the following sections:
§\tOverview
§\tSuit Styles
§\tProper Fit
§\tFabrics
§\tColors
§\tAccessories
Overview
The cut (aka type, style or silhouette) may be full (aka boxy, sack, without darts), or fitted (aka tapered, slim, form-fitting, with darts); elongating (vertically oriented), or widening; stiff (aka structured, smooth, clean), or soft (aka draped, wrinkled/rumpled). There will usually be a specific cut or cuts best suited to an individual's body type which will be explained as will the ability of a suit to elongate or widen the body. The structure of the suit along with its' corresponding stiffness or softness is discussed later when addressing suit construction.
Before delving into the nuances of a suit we must first be clear on some of its components:
1.\tThe shoulders can be unpadded (natural) or padded (squarish) in varying degrees. Generally the shoulder seam should fall on the natural shoulder or, in the case of a padded shoulder, might extend slightly past the natural shoulder.
2.\tThe chest can be either full or lean (form fitting) with a fuller chest having extra material that billows from the waist and then narrowing to the armholes.
3.\tThe waist is the suppressed or fitted part of the jacket that covers the midsection of the torso. Ideally the narrowest or most suppressed part will be at the "natural waist" which is at the navel. It is this narrowest part that dictates the button stance. A true sack suit (without darts) has no waist.
4.\tThe button stance refers to how high or low the buttons are placed on the jacket. The button that you actually button (top on a 2 button and middle on a 3 button) should fall squarely with the narrowest part of the waist which should be even with the navel (natural waist).
5.\tThe skirt is the material hanging below the waist and can be full or lean. A full skirt on a highly suppressed waist would create an "hourglass" silhouette and a lean waist would create more of a "V" silhouette. Usually the waist will hang straight down to the ground but will sometimes be tailored to flair out slightly away from the body.
6.\tThe lapels are the "lower part of the collar" that extends down from the neck to just above the buttons. There are wider lapels and narrower ones and suits have either notched or peaked lapels (discussed later). The placement of the notch in the lapel can be higher or lower and this is what defines the gorge. The higher the notch (or the closer it is to the neckline), the higher the gorge.
7.\tArmholes are referred to as higher or lower depending on how close the bottom of the sleeve is to the actual armpit (where the sleeve connects to the chest). Higher armholes are smaller in circumference while lower armholes are larger.
Suit Styles
The only way to categorize different suit styles is to generalize and we must acknowledge this fact. There is an infinitesimal variety of suiting styles and one can not say that all Savile Row tailors adhere to the same tailoring principles. Likewise with the Roman, Neapolitan or Milanese. Most tailors and manufacturing houses have their own distinct styles.
American (aka Sack)
Historically an English cut dating to the Victorian era where it replaced the morning and frock coats. The sack was originally a waistcoat and its' boxy loose-fitting structure was often meant for outdoor activities like golfing, fishing, bicycling, etc. Also referred to as a lounge suit, the sack was considered casual wear until the late 1800's (1890 or so) when it became accepted business wear. With a matching vest, the 3-piece was known as a Ditto suit. In the early 1800's Beau Brummell and others started advocating a more fitted suit which, by the early 1900's, had evolved into what is typically referred to now as the British or English cut.
The traditional American suit is typically a 2 button single vent with minimal tapering, minimally padded shoulders, lightly structured draping chest, full skirt, large armholes, narrower notched lapels, medium gorge and full-cut pants with or without pleats. Often accessorized with solid or slightly patterned shirtings (stripes) with point or button down collars. Examples: Oxxford and Brooks Brothers
The Sack suit is similar and typically 3/2 or 2 button single vent "box" or "sack" without darts (no waist), non-padded shoulders, draping chest, full skirt, very large armholes, narrower notched lapels, medium gorge and full-cut pants without pleats. This is the ultimate "Trad"itional suit and often accessorized with button down shirts, repp and bow ties. Example: J Press and Brooks Brothers
American suits are usually constructed of heavier materials; flannels, tweeds, worsteds. Linens in summer. Hybrids might have more tapering and possibly 2 or no vents...a darted jacket with 2 vents would probably be considered English.
English (Savile Row) (aka British)
Savile Row suits are generally 2 button, often 3 piece, dual vented with the occasional ticket pocket. The shoulder is soft but straight with minimal padding and sometimes roping. They are moderately tapered with a pinched waist, have a structured but draping chest that swells slightly, a flared skirt, medium sized lapels, high gorge and a high button stance. Savile Row suits are constructed of heavier materials like flannels, tweeds and worsteds. They are typically accessorized with heavily patterned ties and shirtings which feature spread collars and often French cuffs. Examples: Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes, Kilgour.
The Right Suit Style for You
When choosing a suit you should take into account your body type. Generally speaking, a suit should "even you out" and in extreme cases it will be the inverse of your body type. For example, those with broad shoulders and an athletic V shaped torso will probably look best in a moderately tapered suit with natural sloping shoulders without padding...a heavily tapered suit with padded angular shoulders would make one look cartoonish. Conversely, if one's shoulders are relatively narrow, shoulder padding will help keep them in proportion with the rest of the body.
Other elements of the suit can create an illusion of height or width. Double breasted suits widen the body and shorter or stout men should especially be aware of this effect. Similarly, single breasted suits elongate the body and create an illusion of height. Narrower lapels, a higher gorge, and a lower button stance also create a sense of height. It might seem that a 3 button suit would increase verticalness but the inherently high button stance actually has the opposite effect.
Generally speaking the boxy shape of the sack suit is considered the most businesslike while tapering is considered more fashionable. Broader shoulders tapering to a narrow waist in a V shape is masculine while an hourglass silhouette can be considered effeminate. Squarish angular shoulders (padded) are intimidating (power suit) while naturally sloping (minimally padded) shoulders are more "approachable". Double-breasted coats are more formal than single breasted.
Fit
Fit is the most important criteria! (again)
Jacket
Shoulders : The shoulder seam should generally fall on the natural shoulder (the hard bony part separating arm and shoulder) or, in the case of a padded shoulder, might extend slightly past the natural shoulder (up to ¼" or so). If the upper sleeves look "empty" then the shoulders are probably too wide and conversely, if the upper sleeves look "stuffed" then the shoulder seam is probably not wide enough. Generally speaking the shoulders cannot be altered as doing so involves removing and re-cutting the sleeves.
Chest : The chest should drape naturally from the shoulders over the upper torso without excess fabric causing bulges or wrinkles. It should also have enough material so as to permit normal and natural movement. Generally speaking the chest of the jacket (measured armpit to armpit) should be 2-3" larger than your actual chest (measured armpit to armpit).Generally speaking the chest cannot be altered as doing so would involve removing the sleeves and re-cutting the main part of the jacket.
Waist : The waist of the jacket (main body of the jacket with the narrowest part found at the widest part of the midsection, approximately at the navel) should flow uninterrupted from the chest without bulging (too loose) or binding (too tight) while having enough room for natural movement while buttoned. A general rule for proper fit is to have enough space to stick two fingers side by side between the closed jacket button and your shirt. Altering the waist is common with a caveat that such alterations not only change the silhouette but also affect the balance of the jacket (especially regarding the pockets).
Length : The overall length of the jacket should be just long enough to fully cover your behind but not unnecessarily longer. Another guideline used is that the bottom hem of the jacket should fall somewhere (personal preference) between the knuckle of your thumb and the tips of your fingers. And yet another guideline (used by many tailors) is that by taking your height in inches and dividing by 2 and then subtracting 4 will determine your basic jacket length (measured from the bottom hem to the point where the collar is attached to the jacket). 6' = 72"/2 = 36" - 4" = 32" jacket length. A shorter jacket might be considered sportier or more trendy while slightly longer might be considered conservative or more business-like. Altering the jacket length is easily done but is often not possible as it greatly affects the vertical balance (pockets, buttons, etc.).
Sleeves
Pants
Suit Construction
Making a suit (or any other article of clothing) involves several steps completed by machine or by hand. Machine controlled processes have the advantage of being more precise (uniform) while hand-tailoring is often the only way to achieve certain details or a custom fit or proper drape.
The most important aspect of making a suit jacket involves the middle layer of fabric (aka backing or canvas or interlining) that supports the outer fabric of the jacket. It is this middle layer that defines the shape and structure of the outer fabric while providing for proper drape and conformity to the body. The backing is either fused (glued) or canvassed (sewn) or a combination of both (1/2 canvassed) to the fabric and is (usually) covered by an interior layer of material (lining).
The two areas of concern regarding the backing are: 1) the material used and 2) how the material is attached to the outer cloth. The backing material should provide enough support for the outer fabric yet be supple enough so that it drapes properly (so as to not overpower the outer fabric or make it "stiff"). It is a balance with the main caveat being an overly stiff jacket.
The backing is either fused (clued) or canvassed (sewn) to the outer fabric. The issue of fusing or canvassing is debatable but if all other factors are equal, canvassing is always preferred. The reality though is that a canvassed jacket takes many hours of very highly skilled labor to complete and is more art than science. An improperly canvassed jacket will not look as good as one that is properly fused. This might seem confusing so please read on.
Fusing is a mechanical process wherein the backing is "fused" to the outer fabric. This is usually done with glue (usually heat-glued) or sometimes the backing is actually a synthetic "melted" to the outer fabric. Regardless, the result is one piece of material instead of two and the process obviously changes the inherent properties of the original (outer) fabric. While a fused backing gives the coat structure, it does little more and comes with certain potential deficiencies not associated with a canvassed jacket.
Besides affecting the draping properties and wearability of the jacket (as discussed below), a fused jacket may "bubble" over time. Essentially the outer fabric comes loose from the backing and one of the layers contracts or expands so that the area in question has two layers that do not match in size. This may be caused by several things including defective fusing techniques, improper dry cleaning, or excessive moisture (like rain).
Defective fusing techniques include uneven coatings of glues or polymers, inconsistent or too high of bonding temperatures, or inferior backing materials. The chemicals and processes used in dry cleaning accelerate the breaking down of the glue or bonding in a fused garment which promotes "bubbling". Further, a jacket that is not allowed to dry before being pressed will bubble. Excessive moisture (like rain) will expand outer wool material separating it from the backing and result in bubbles. There is little that can be done to fix bubbling on a fused coat.
With all of that being said, fusing techniques and dry cleaning techniques have made significant advances over the years. Fused suits manufactured today should be just as durable as canvassed ones if taken care of properly. Those implementing soft, high quality backings also come very close to the suppleness and drape found in fully canvassed jackets
In response to an inquiry about a jacket I have in B&S I replied, "If so I'd like to offer some advice. First, SF is full of information. Take time to research and study here. I'm going on 2 years and learn every visit. Second, take your time and finally buy quality pieces that fit.
"Nothing else matters if you can't make it fit. When you find a piece like this, no matter how much you like it, it will never be worn if you can't get a tailor to make it fit. Word from a learned SFer, you don't want to be messing around re-selling or giving away clothes. Know your measurements and get accurate ones from Sellers.
"As far as jackets go, for all intents and purposes the shoulders and chest can not be altered. The length maybe an inch or so...sometimes. I can't stress it enough that fit is king. A great fitting Calvin Klein will look better than an ill-fitting Kiton."
So that is the synopsis of "The Suit Primer". Ironically I have a closet full of great jackets that are off in one way or another because "even though the lapels are a bit too wide, I can make it work," or some such thing. I'm closet cleaning and have too many perfect clothes...except for the one thing that means I'll never wear them
So without further ado, for the benefit of the guy that's going to buy my Vestimenta, and hopefully you...the readable drafts of "The Suit Primer"...completely unfinished and unedited. Hopefully one day it will be complete. As always, I look forward to your responses, advise and opinions. thx, Faded
The Suit Primer
Suiting oneself is at the same time both very simple and overly complicated. The clothes we wear reflect our personal style along with our mood (or purpose). Traditional wardrobe is important to the discussion of suitings as it provides the framework for how we dress today. "Rules" based on tradition are derived from centuries old European practices and most contemporary American men do not know these rules, much less follow them. The more valid rules are those that address fit, fabric, colors and the type of suit that is appropriate for your particular frame. The most important thing is that we understand what our clothing relays to others and that we dress as to feel comfortable and confident.
This guide is broken down into the following sections:
§\tOverview
§\tSuit Styles
§\tProper Fit
§\tFabrics
§\tColors
§\tAccessories
Overview
The cut (aka type, style or silhouette) may be full (aka boxy, sack, without darts), or fitted (aka tapered, slim, form-fitting, with darts); elongating (vertically oriented), or widening; stiff (aka structured, smooth, clean), or soft (aka draped, wrinkled/rumpled). There will usually be a specific cut or cuts best suited to an individual's body type which will be explained as will the ability of a suit to elongate or widen the body. The structure of the suit along with its' corresponding stiffness or softness is discussed later when addressing suit construction.
Before delving into the nuances of a suit we must first be clear on some of its components:
1.\tThe shoulders can be unpadded (natural) or padded (squarish) in varying degrees. Generally the shoulder seam should fall on the natural shoulder or, in the case of a padded shoulder, might extend slightly past the natural shoulder.
2.\tThe chest can be either full or lean (form fitting) with a fuller chest having extra material that billows from the waist and then narrowing to the armholes.
3.\tThe waist is the suppressed or fitted part of the jacket that covers the midsection of the torso. Ideally the narrowest or most suppressed part will be at the "natural waist" which is at the navel. It is this narrowest part that dictates the button stance. A true sack suit (without darts) has no waist.
4.\tThe button stance refers to how high or low the buttons are placed on the jacket. The button that you actually button (top on a 2 button and middle on a 3 button) should fall squarely with the narrowest part of the waist which should be even with the navel (natural waist).
5.\tThe skirt is the material hanging below the waist and can be full or lean. A full skirt on a highly suppressed waist would create an "hourglass" silhouette and a lean waist would create more of a "V" silhouette. Usually the waist will hang straight down to the ground but will sometimes be tailored to flair out slightly away from the body.
6.\tThe lapels are the "lower part of the collar" that extends down from the neck to just above the buttons. There are wider lapels and narrower ones and suits have either notched or peaked lapels (discussed later). The placement of the notch in the lapel can be higher or lower and this is what defines the gorge. The higher the notch (or the closer it is to the neckline), the higher the gorge.
7.\tArmholes are referred to as higher or lower depending on how close the bottom of the sleeve is to the actual armpit (where the sleeve connects to the chest). Higher armholes are smaller in circumference while lower armholes are larger.
Suit Styles
The only way to categorize different suit styles is to generalize and we must acknowledge this fact. There is an infinitesimal variety of suiting styles and one can not say that all Savile Row tailors adhere to the same tailoring principles. Likewise with the Roman, Neapolitan or Milanese. Most tailors and manufacturing houses have their own distinct styles.
American (aka Sack)
Historically an English cut dating to the Victorian era where it replaced the morning and frock coats. The sack was originally a waistcoat and its' boxy loose-fitting structure was often meant for outdoor activities like golfing, fishing, bicycling, etc. Also referred to as a lounge suit, the sack was considered casual wear until the late 1800's (1890 or so) when it became accepted business wear. With a matching vest, the 3-piece was known as a Ditto suit. In the early 1800's Beau Brummell and others started advocating a more fitted suit which, by the early 1900's, had evolved into what is typically referred to now as the British or English cut.
The traditional American suit is typically a 2 button single vent with minimal tapering, minimally padded shoulders, lightly structured draping chest, full skirt, large armholes, narrower notched lapels, medium gorge and full-cut pants with or without pleats. Often accessorized with solid or slightly patterned shirtings (stripes) with point or button down collars. Examples: Oxxford and Brooks Brothers
The Sack suit is similar and typically 3/2 or 2 button single vent "box" or "sack" without darts (no waist), non-padded shoulders, draping chest, full skirt, very large armholes, narrower notched lapels, medium gorge and full-cut pants without pleats. This is the ultimate "Trad"itional suit and often accessorized with button down shirts, repp and bow ties. Example: J Press and Brooks Brothers
American suits are usually constructed of heavier materials; flannels, tweeds, worsteds. Linens in summer. Hybrids might have more tapering and possibly 2 or no vents...a darted jacket with 2 vents would probably be considered English.
English (Savile Row) (aka British)
Savile Row suits are generally 2 button, often 3 piece, dual vented with the occasional ticket pocket. The shoulder is soft but straight with minimal padding and sometimes roping. They are moderately tapered with a pinched waist, have a structured but draping chest that swells slightly, a flared skirt, medium sized lapels, high gorge and a high button stance. Savile Row suits are constructed of heavier materials like flannels, tweeds and worsteds. They are typically accessorized with heavily patterned ties and shirtings which feature spread collars and often French cuffs. Examples: Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes, Kilgour.
The Right Suit Style for You
When choosing a suit you should take into account your body type. Generally speaking, a suit should "even you out" and in extreme cases it will be the inverse of your body type. For example, those with broad shoulders and an athletic V shaped torso will probably look best in a moderately tapered suit with natural sloping shoulders without padding...a heavily tapered suit with padded angular shoulders would make one look cartoonish. Conversely, if one's shoulders are relatively narrow, shoulder padding will help keep them in proportion with the rest of the body.
Other elements of the suit can create an illusion of height or width. Double breasted suits widen the body and shorter or stout men should especially be aware of this effect. Similarly, single breasted suits elongate the body and create an illusion of height. Narrower lapels, a higher gorge, and a lower button stance also create a sense of height. It might seem that a 3 button suit would increase verticalness but the inherently high button stance actually has the opposite effect.
Generally speaking the boxy shape of the sack suit is considered the most businesslike while tapering is considered more fashionable. Broader shoulders tapering to a narrow waist in a V shape is masculine while an hourglass silhouette can be considered effeminate. Squarish angular shoulders (padded) are intimidating (power suit) while naturally sloping (minimally padded) shoulders are more "approachable". Double-breasted coats are more formal than single breasted.
Fit
Fit is the most important criteria! (again)
Jacket
Shoulders : The shoulder seam should generally fall on the natural shoulder (the hard bony part separating arm and shoulder) or, in the case of a padded shoulder, might extend slightly past the natural shoulder (up to ¼" or so). If the upper sleeves look "empty" then the shoulders are probably too wide and conversely, if the upper sleeves look "stuffed" then the shoulder seam is probably not wide enough. Generally speaking the shoulders cannot be altered as doing so involves removing and re-cutting the sleeves.
Chest : The chest should drape naturally from the shoulders over the upper torso without excess fabric causing bulges or wrinkles. It should also have enough material so as to permit normal and natural movement. Generally speaking the chest of the jacket (measured armpit to armpit) should be 2-3" larger than your actual chest (measured armpit to armpit).Generally speaking the chest cannot be altered as doing so would involve removing the sleeves and re-cutting the main part of the jacket.
Waist : The waist of the jacket (main body of the jacket with the narrowest part found at the widest part of the midsection, approximately at the navel) should flow uninterrupted from the chest without bulging (too loose) or binding (too tight) while having enough room for natural movement while buttoned. A general rule for proper fit is to have enough space to stick two fingers side by side between the closed jacket button and your shirt. Altering the waist is common with a caveat that such alterations not only change the silhouette but also affect the balance of the jacket (especially regarding the pockets).
Length : The overall length of the jacket should be just long enough to fully cover your behind but not unnecessarily longer. Another guideline used is that the bottom hem of the jacket should fall somewhere (personal preference) between the knuckle of your thumb and the tips of your fingers. And yet another guideline (used by many tailors) is that by taking your height in inches and dividing by 2 and then subtracting 4 will determine your basic jacket length (measured from the bottom hem to the point where the collar is attached to the jacket). 6' = 72"/2 = 36" - 4" = 32" jacket length. A shorter jacket might be considered sportier or more trendy while slightly longer might be considered conservative or more business-like. Altering the jacket length is easily done but is often not possible as it greatly affects the vertical balance (pockets, buttons, etc.).
Sleeves
Pants
Suit Construction
Making a suit (or any other article of clothing) involves several steps completed by machine or by hand. Machine controlled processes have the advantage of being more precise (uniform) while hand-tailoring is often the only way to achieve certain details or a custom fit or proper drape.
The most important aspect of making a suit jacket involves the middle layer of fabric (aka backing or canvas or interlining) that supports the outer fabric of the jacket. It is this middle layer that defines the shape and structure of the outer fabric while providing for proper drape and conformity to the body. The backing is either fused (glued) or canvassed (sewn) or a combination of both (1/2 canvassed) to the fabric and is (usually) covered by an interior layer of material (lining).
The two areas of concern regarding the backing are: 1) the material used and 2) how the material is attached to the outer cloth. The backing material should provide enough support for the outer fabric yet be supple enough so that it drapes properly (so as to not overpower the outer fabric or make it "stiff"). It is a balance with the main caveat being an overly stiff jacket.
The backing is either fused (clued) or canvassed (sewn) to the outer fabric. The issue of fusing or canvassing is debatable but if all other factors are equal, canvassing is always preferred. The reality though is that a canvassed jacket takes many hours of very highly skilled labor to complete and is more art than science. An improperly canvassed jacket will not look as good as one that is properly fused. This might seem confusing so please read on.
Fusing is a mechanical process wherein the backing is "fused" to the outer fabric. This is usually done with glue (usually heat-glued) or sometimes the backing is actually a synthetic "melted" to the outer fabric. Regardless, the result is one piece of material instead of two and the process obviously changes the inherent properties of the original (outer) fabric. While a fused backing gives the coat structure, it does little more and comes with certain potential deficiencies not associated with a canvassed jacket.
Besides affecting the draping properties and wearability of the jacket (as discussed below), a fused jacket may "bubble" over time. Essentially the outer fabric comes loose from the backing and one of the layers contracts or expands so that the area in question has two layers that do not match in size. This may be caused by several things including defective fusing techniques, improper dry cleaning, or excessive moisture (like rain).
Defective fusing techniques include uneven coatings of glues or polymers, inconsistent or too high of bonding temperatures, or inferior backing materials. The chemicals and processes used in dry cleaning accelerate the breaking down of the glue or bonding in a fused garment which promotes "bubbling". Further, a jacket that is not allowed to dry before being pressed will bubble. Excessive moisture (like rain) will expand outer wool material separating it from the backing and result in bubbles. There is little that can be done to fix bubbling on a fused coat.
With all of that being said, fusing techniques and dry cleaning techniques have made significant advances over the years. Fused suits manufactured today should be just as durable as canvassed ones if taken care of properly. Those implementing soft, high quality backings also come very close to the suppleness and drape found in fully canvassed jackets
