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pressed or rolled lapels.

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by davmeva, Mar 22, 2016.

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  1. davmeva

    davmeva New Member

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    Hi, I was hoping someone on here would be able to help me out interpreting this message I recently received from a BKK tailor. We have been emailing back and forth for a few days now. They have said they can provide a half canvassed jacket. I then followed up with a question asking if they can produce a soft rolled lapel, as I'm not interested in machine pressed. The answer I received was a little cryptic.

    " If you prefer a lightly pressed lapel – you can also let us know, as it is indeed a personal preference right there. Even if a lapel has been hard pressed, it can still be undone into a soft, unpressed/minor pressed lapel.

    My gut feeling is that this will be machine pressed and won't have the "hollow" of a soft rolled. Am I correct.

    Thank you to anyone who can provide help
     
  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum @davmeva . They are saying they can do a "soft roll", but just stating that even if someone hard presses a lapel, a good tailor/cleaners can get out the crease and bring back that nice lapel roll.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2016
  3. davmeva

    davmeva New Member

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    Cheers for the reply. I've been learning a lot over the last few weeks. This adds to the pot. When I've finished all my research and got my decisions I'll do a more in depth post
     
  4. davmeva

    davmeva New Member

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    Hi guys, I know this next question is moving slightly away from lapels but I figured as it's the same suit and the same tailors I would be best to keep it in the same place.

    so I started off by contacting a large number of tailors and I've narrowed it down to 2. One of them is offering a fully canvassed suit which will take around 8-10 weeks and 3-4 fittings, this seems in line with what I would expect from a UK tailor. The other is offering a half canvassed and says they can do it in a week, also with 3-4 fittings. One week for a half canvassed 3 piece suit seems a little unrealistic to me and would indicate they are cutting corners somewhere. But admittedly I'm slightly on the guessing side of the line. Any opinions would be very welcome.

    As an addition I would like to add that when I started researching BKK tailors I found there was lots of information but much of it was from several years ago. Over the last month or two I've compiled a lot of information. I've had email exchanges with several tailors which in some ways contradict many of the things I read in reviews. When I have made my final decision I will post a full report detailing everything I've learnt and hopefully pictures of the finished item.

    As always thank you for your time, knowledge and replies.
     
  5. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    3-4 fittings in 8-10 means that your suit is waiting its turn to be worked on between fittings. The same number of fittings could be compressed into a single week if the suit is worked on immediately in between fittings. You should ask. It does not necessarily mean the quick-turnaround shop is cutting corners, although they may very well be.

    A bigger difference might be in the full canvas versus the half-canvas. There is information available on this forum and elsewhere that illustrates the difference. There should also be a difference in price. You must decide on whether a fully canvased jacket is something you want, or not.

    Have you seen examples of the work from both these places? That might be the best determining factor. Shoddy work can be done quickly or slowly.
     
  6. davmeva

    davmeva New Member

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    Thank you very much for the reply. I've done my research on Full vs half canvassed and would prefer full but it looks like with my time-scale and the fact I can only find one place the offers it, I'm going to have to go half. But I am happy you feel that it's possible in the time they're quoting me. I'll do as you suggested and try to find some pictures of their work. Thanks for your time and advice
     
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