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Preparing a try-on for first fitting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Despos, Feb 3, 2012.

  1. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    Oct 20, 2004
    Chris, you are an excellent teacher. Thanks for the thread.
     
  2. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
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    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi Despos
    good thread thanks for putting this out there. you obviously have a thriving business. I am at the stage where I wish to take an apprentice on. I have hesitated as it is a big step, however without one I work long hours. I sell in the upper top end of the market in New Zealand when I can get the price. I have been trained by an ex Savile Row tailor and cutter as a coatmaker. I do this at this stage for the love of my work, however after another 10 years the love may be less if the money is not more. Did you take on apprentices or hired experienced people? i am finding it difficult to make the leap. I hand sew in sleeves, shoulder seams and collars top and bottom and linings, bar tacks etc and this is a standard I wish to maintain. I do not feel I could take the years to train an apprentice, and are just in between being able to pay an experienced person if there are any? suggestions welcome!
    I am in my forties and all other tailors, trained by other tailors not trained in institutions are in their seventies and eighties. The bespoke workforce is very small here.

    With the understanding that all tailors do things differently....
    I am always interested in new ways of doing things and have a couple of questions to that extent.
    Q The shoulder seam is quite deep. Looks like an inch and a quarter I was taught a 3/8 inlay and lengthen the back balance from the back arm scye keeping an inlay on the front panel for such an alteration.?
    I see you cut a false forearm sleeve. Occasionally I get asked for one. What Iron work do you do ie where are you shrinking or stretching the cloth? I use a full sleeve with no under-sleeve pattern made. I lay the top-sleeve on the cloth, picking it up on the diagonal to make the undersleeve. I get the run of the sleeve once it is basted on the coat.I would appreciate anything suggestions here.
    In return any tailors out there, I have a wonderful source in Italy for top quality camel hair body canvas in various weights, horse hair, linen collar canvas, cotton wadding etc. Min 25 metre, but the best quality I have found yet.Only 1 person there speaks English and they arrange for this person to be there for any phone calls. Which would suggest they do not sell much into English speaking markets. Opportunity there? I travel to Europe each year on the look out for mills and trims etc.
    Thanks for your help Despos
    kind regards
    Brendon
     
  3. lanhdo

    lanhdo New Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 9, 2012
    You seem to make very high quality suits. Your craftsmanship is amazing. Where do you purchase your horse hair cloth for creating full canvas suits? I am having a hard time acquiring quality hair cloth that does not shrink. Do you have a certain technique that you follow that may limit or negate shrinking?
    Thank you and keep up the great work!
     
  4. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    

    All hair-cloth should be pre-shrunk before using, because otherwise it will shrink.
     
  5. lanhdo

    lanhdo New Member

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    Sanguis, thank you for the reply.

    We have tried to pre-shrink the hair cloth; however, it does still seem to shrink eventually. To shrink we have been soaking the hair cloth in hot water over night and ironing dry the next morning. Do you follow a similar technique?
    I
    think I might not have a high quality hair cloth. Where do you purchase your hair cloth? Is the hair cloth you purchase already pre-shrunk?

    [FONT=verdana, tahoma, arial, sans-serif]Thank you![/FONT]
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you live in the US?

    We use cold water, no need to leave it soaking overnight. Just get it wet. Let it dry naturally overnight and don't iron it dry.

    What is causing your haircloth to continue shrinking? Is it from dry-cleaning? Are you shrinking the hymo and whatever covering you use over the haircloth?
     
  7. lanhdo

    lanhdo New Member

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    Jun 9, 2012
    Hi Despos,
    Thank you for your reply.
    Yes, we live in US.
    I actually have tried to dry naturally in the sun and overnight too. Our haircloth continues to shrink after dry-cleaning. And I know for sure that our fabric covering the haircloth does not shrink.
    We are making half canvas suits right now because of our nervousness that the full canvas will continue to shrink after dry cleaning. I think we are just not able to find a high quality canvas yet. If you know where they sell quality horse haircloth, please let me know.

    Thank you so much!



    _Lan Do_
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You may be confusing names of the materials you are using.

    Hymo is the material used for the full canvass. It runs from top to bottom of the front. Haircloth is firmer and only used in the chest area. I think you are having trouble with the hymo shrinking, not the haircloth.

    Are you mass producing suits? What is your budget for buying hymo? How much do you buy at a time?
     
  9. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Feb 11, 2011
    Location:
    Dallas, TX
    Cool! I finally get to see these pics!
     
  10. tailorgod

    tailorgod Senior member

    Messages:
    127
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    Dec 7, 2008
    
    Gilt Edge Suitings in the UK is a good source for high quality wool/ camelhair canvas in various weights. I have been told by tailors that those with the label "wet in cold water and dried in the sun" don't shrink at all. They are Made in Italy. http://www.cutterandtailor.com/foru...+gilt +edge +suitings&fromsearch=1&#entry7276 They have a selection of linen and cotton canvasses as well, but they may need soaking. http://www.cutterandtailor.com/foru...gilt +edge +suitings&fromsearch=1&#entry11494 I paid 25,- Euro for shipping my last order from Italy (Zorloni is the actual company) to Germany. Will likely be significantly more to the US.
     

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