Pre- & Post-Hermes John Lobb Paris branch bespoke operation

[von Rothbart]

Looking at John Lobb St. James and John Paris bespoke, they are very different aesthetically. That makes me wonder when did the aesthetic divergence occur? Pre or post Hermes? Who made shoes for the John Lobb (St. James) Paris branch prior to Hermes' acquisition? Did the branch use the same shoemakers and designs as the St. James store? Or the Paris branch had its own team of artisans? If the Paris branch used the same team as the St. James store, where did the bespoke makers come from post-Hermes?

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by von Rothbart

Looking at John Lobb St. James and John Paris bespoke, they are very different aesthetically. That makes me wonder when did the aesthetic divergence occur? Pre or post Hermes? Who made shoes for the John Lobb (St. James) Paris branch prior to Hermes' acquisition? Did the branch use the same shoemakers and designs as the St. James store? Or the Paris branch had its own team of artisans? If the Paris branch used the same team as the St. James store, where did the bespoke makers come from post-Hermes?


The divergence ccurred after Hermes took over JL's store in Paris. Up to that point the shoes were of JL London's sensibilities. Hermes invested in their own scaled up bespoke making operation more than twenty years ago and has been increasingly French ever since (that's not bad but it is different).

 

[Tarmac]

Originally Posted by Will

Up to that point the shoes were of JL London's sensibilities.
So up to that point they were similar, but not the same? Also, I don't remember ever seeing a single JL London bespoke shoe on SF, even though plenty of bespoke is thrown around here. Is there a reason for that?

 

[LabelKing]

What I hate is how they "remodeled" the Paris store into one of those hideously minimal blonde-wooded totems of global luxury.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Tarmac

So up to that point they were similar, but not the same?

Also, I don't remember ever seeing a single JL London bespoke shoe on SF, even though plenty of bespoke is thrown around here. Is there a reason for that?

Up until that point JL Paris did not exist.

The relatively few SF members who buy bespoke shoes tend to patronize makers like Gaziano, Cleverley, Foster and less well known Italians that have more modern lasts and styling than Lobb London.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Will

Up until that point JL Paris did not exist.

The relatively few SF members who buy bespoke shoes tend to patronize makers like Gaziano, Cleverley, Foster and less well known Italians that have more modern lasts and styling than Lobb London.
... and better prices.

 

[Biscione]

I used to have some John Lobb Paris shoes, but in my opinion they don't compare to bespoke cobbler made shoes (in my case, from Arcando in Milano) in many ways. The prices aren't even that different.

I considered getting English Lobb moccasins because they're really the best, but I couldn't justify the price.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Biscione

I used to have some John Lobb Paris shoes, but in my opinion they don't compare to bespoke cobbler made shoes (in my case, from Arcando in Milano) in many ways. The prices aren't even that different.

I considered getting English Lobb moccasins because they're really the best, but I couldn't justify the price.

JL Paris has two lines. The RTW shoes are comparable to Edward Green in quality and price. The bespoke shoes are comparable to JL London in price and some consider them equal to the finest bespoke shoes in the world. I know of none better made, or more expensive.

 

[Biscione]

I know of their bespoke service: a relative used to only get shoes from it. He now uses Arcando, and prefers it (not that a sole preference gives solid proof towards anything, nor do "some" preferences).

Fine shoes, but for the price, it's silly: there are plenty of cobblers over here who deliver a similar or superior product. However, with all due respect, Milan is a very different culture to San Francisco, as the profusion of traditional cobblers here can't be found there.

 

[TKDKid]

Originally Posted by Tarmac

Also, I don't remember ever seeing a single JL London bespoke shoe on SF, even though plenty of bespoke is thrown around here.

You mean like these?

Kai also posted about his experience with JL London here.