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Pre-2010 Borrelli shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lbcgav, May 26, 2011.

  1. lbcgav

    lbcgav Senior member

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    I keep seeing this in the B&S forum. What happend in 2010 that makes the pre-2010 Borrellis that much more desirable?
     
  2. Kenneth Cole Haan

    Kenneth Cole Haan Senior member

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    I dont know personally but I heard elsewhere that they greatly reduced the amount of handwork and used smaller shell buttons--discontinuing the 'cake' ones.
     
  3. Klobber

    Klobber Senior member

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    Maybe a sign of popularity, sales increase, demand increase, apply economy of scale and ...
     
  4. rsuhandy

    rsuhandy Senior member

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    Less hand work...cheaper buttons....and poorer quality overall...
    Still a good shirt....just not what they used to be.....
     
  5. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The difference is amazing, if you have ever handled both.

    Although the stock I got from Ian at STF has amazing handwork, although I am pretty sure its post 2010.
     
  6. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    The difference is amazing, if you have ever handled both.

    Although the stock I got from Ian at STF has amazing handwork, although I am pretty sure its post 2010.


    +1. There is a world of difference. I try to pick up as many pre-2010 as I can find. There are still some out there- esp at STF.
     
  7. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    +1. There is a world of difference. I try to pick up as many pre-2010 as I can find. There are still some out there- esp at STF.

    You think Ians are pre-2010? I was amazed when I took them out of the box, totally expecting machine everything, but they are up to 100% pre2010 standards. I think I need to go look for more from his store.
     
  8. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    I have a handful of them...and one is a new model. and there is a HUGE difference. Buttons were the biggest gripe, and way less hand stitching. Still a great shirt no doubt, but a far cry from the old stuff.
     
  9. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    You think Ians are pre-2010? I was amazed when I took them out of the box, totally expecting machine everything, but they are up to 100% pre2010 standards. I think I need to go look for more from his store.

    Not all of them. I just look at the buttons in the pics. You can also see the hand attached collars if you look closely......
     
  10. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    Didn't they have a rather large tax fraud issue?
     
  11. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Didn't they have a rather large tax fraud issue?
    IIRC the company was sold as a result. The current owners lowered quality across the line.
     
  12. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    IIRC the company was sold as a result. The current owners lowered quality across the line.

    I thought the Borrelli family still owned the company.
     
  13. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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  14. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    I dont know personally but I heard elsewhere that they greatly reduced the amount of handwork and used smaller shell buttons--discontinuing the 'cake' ones.

    Not entirely true. Most of the post 2010 shirts still have the thick mop button's but a few of them don't therefore making it harder to differentiate the two. I love the old shirts but you have to be careful on sizing as many were made for the American market where as the new shirts seem to be very slim Euro market shirts.
     
  15. allaboutshoes

    allaboutshoes Senior member

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    For those in need, I have a few NWT Pre-2010 shirts (im assuming because there's tons of handwork, MOP buttons and fabric is smooth to the touch etc), so PM me if anyone's interested
     
  16. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I have a couple of the "post-2010" shirts and the only difference that I have noticed is the buttons - whilst they are still MoP, they are quite a bit thinner than the older buttons.

    I haven't noticed any dimunition in the amount of handwork between the pre-2010 and the 2010-11 shirts - the collars and sleeves are still attached by hand and the buttonholes look the same to my eyes.
     
  17. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    There was some mention here a while ago that the design of the small attached booklet changed with the newer shirts, from being vertical to horizontal (Old: █ New: ▀▀ ).

    Don't know how accurate this is, but only ones I have (older) came with the vertical booklet. One of them (a linen Luxury Vintage) has the most handwork of any shirt I own but also came with thin MoP buttons, so button thickness isn't a sure way to tell old from new.
     
  18. beerbudget

    beerbudget Well-Known Member

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    The newer shirts appear to only have handwork on the sleeves (armhole) and hand sewn buttons even though the booklet still claims the 8 handstitched parts of the previous shirts. Still have the thick MOP buttons.

    Still nice fabric, a bit smaller fitting in the collar, and overall.

    With less handwork the retail price should be less.
     
  19. dovsr18

    dovsr18 Active Member

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    Sorry to bump this, but I've bought several shirts mentioned here recently and I'd like to give my impressions.

    First up, a Borrelli shirt I got recently - advertised as 2013, so I believe a current offering - and I think the belief of its demise is greatly exaggerated. I will post pics shortly, but there is handwork everywhere (if that matters to you, and not saying it should). More importantly, it appears very durable and well-made, with a lot of hand-sewn reinforcements in places most shirts don't have them. The buttons are nice (not "cakes" but still beautiful disks of MOP), the collar is fantastic (spread but not extreme spread, and falls very nice). My only complaint is that the sleeves, while OK on me, arguably should err a bit longer for those with longer arms. I happen to have very long arms, generally 35-36 on 15.5, and these come down to my wrist but not to the base of the thumb. But that's quibbling. I bought a Borrelli Royal Collection from a SF seller recently, which is supposedly the gold standard, so I will compare them when it arrives.

    Next up, Kiton ($110 on SF). I don't know when this shirt was produced but it appears recent. The shirt indeed seems the highest quality in terms of handwork and sleeveheads; although the sleeveheads are almost blousy and extend out quite a bit. Fabric is nice but I don't find it qualitatively better than the others - perhaps a bit softer, no stronger. The brown buttons don't bother me - I think they give character. But I like the collar better on my new Borrelli. The fit is not slim - at all - and actually is what I would call traditional American cut. As someone pointed out, their ideal client is more of a corpulent CEO than a young Euro skinny guy, like Barba. Actually, of all of the shirts, the Kiton's cut is least flattering.

    Next up, a 2013 Sartoria Partenopea shirt. I had high hopes given the love for SP on SF, but this shirt is actually the weakest of those I've mentioned (still in the top 5% of all shirts on the market, obviously... but we're comparing within that 5%). The fabric is about like Borrelli, but a bit thinner. Even though Partenopea puts a lot of handwork into their suits, I see little evidence of handwork on their shirts; but I will readily admit I am not expert enough to say for sure. The cut is similar to Borrelli, but a touch slimmer. Like Borrelli, a rather constricted chest, but should be good for those looking for a slimmer cut. The collar is nice for ties - less spread than Borrelli - but my biggest complaint is no removable collar stays. This can't be good for the shirt as it is washed, and it worries me.

    I have yet to try Finamore, Charvet, Barba (except for a washed beige Dandylife which I love), or the others people praise. Maybe after trying these I would see what a true shirt is and just burn the others, as some imply ;)

    So that's my rundown of these shirts, as of 2013 - certainly has dispelled myths in my own mind. If I could only keep one of these three - it would be the 2013 Borrelli.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  20. havingaraveup

    havingaraveup Senior member

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    Noticed that post 2010 still have crows feet on their "vintage" line. a lot of handwork, no real gusset or split yoke, but still a beautiful shirt.
     

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