Poor single needle stitching v. good double needle stitching

[phxlawstudent]

Preliminary matters
Obviously the second half of the title sounds like an oxymoron, but I'm assuming (possibly wrongly) that there are differing levels of quality with double needle tailoring.
I also understand that the lock stitch of a single needle is superior to the chain stitch of a double needle. The lock stitch will unravel only one or two stitches, whereas the chain will unravel the entire seam if a thread breaks.



So, is there such thing as better double needle stitching? If so, is a single needle, flat felled seam always superior to a double needle stitched seam?

 

[Ataturk]

I don't know too much about chainstitch. Generally it's frowned upon because, like you mentioned, they unravel if broken, and because chainstitch is preferred in mass manufacture because the machines sew faster. So single needle tends to be an indication that the rest of the shirt is assembled with more care.

That said, I think chainstitch is actually stronger than lockstitch, regardless of what a lot of people say. Though it may be that you can make the lockstitch stronger by shortening the stitch length more than you'd see on a typical chainstitched shirt. I don't know.

Also note that many "single needle tailored" shirts have chainstitched front plackets and (often) armholes. Brooks Brothers "made in the USA" shirts are a good example.

 

[Ataturk]

Oh, right, your actual question in the thread?

It depends on a lot of things. Usually on dress shirts they try to use fine thread, but thin threads are weaker than thick ones. Likewise, polyester is actually stronger than cotton and it doesn't shrink as much. On the other hand, more stitches per inch, up to a point, makes the seam stronger. Likewise, at a certain point widely spaced stitches really compromise the strength of the seam whether they're lockstitch or not.

 

[either/or]

howstuffworks link on the two methods, picked up in a similar thread.

 

[a tailor]

why would anyone want their jeans hemmed with a chain stitch?

 

[phxlawstudent]

Originally Posted by a tailor

why would anyone want their jeans hemmed with a chain stitch?

My theory has always been that it looks "cooler" or more traditional for when they upturn the cuff.

 

[bjornb17]

In my experience, i haven't seen any real-world benefits of one over the other.

 

[Shirtmaven]

A chain stitich is easier to take apart for alterstions.
chain stitch on a top center placket is fine. it is much easier to line up stripes if the front is cut as a seperate piece.

chain stitched sleeves are not nice