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Poor man's watch thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SirGrotius, Feb 4, 2011.

  1. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    Exactly. I have a solar Citizen "dress" watch..really nice looking watch...even at 40mm it's ok as dress watch, but it's as thick as my Sub. I wore it for a couple days last week to test it out, but it was less comfortable than my Sub. It has a "vintage-y" high plexi crystal that while beautiful really adds to the thickness. If it had a flat crystal it'd be perfection. I think I took a pic when I wore it. I'll check my phone and post it if I have it.

    Yep. Here it is:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2017
  2. crdb

    crdb Well-Known Member

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    I think the idea is that if you want thin, you get quartz, and automatics have to look like automatics.
     
  3. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Well-Known Member

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    Thick is never a "look", its just lazy engineering or a cheap watch.
     
  4. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    I completely disagree.
     
  5. crdb

    crdb Well-Known Member

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    I didn't say I approved of the idea, just that this seemed to be the design philosophy. Even the GS line is thick to my eye.
     
  6. Churchill W

    Churchill W Well-Known Member

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    Think you mean mechanicals, but don't agree with that either. Granted for the thinnest of mechanicals you will need to pay quite a bit, but you can also get something like a Nomos Tangente or the Orion shown above.

    Don't agree with this either. Panerai?
     
  7. crdb

    crdb Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking specifically about automatics, and specifically about Seiko and Japanese brands (sorry if this wasn't clear). Having handled some GS from the 1950s - 70s, which (maybe wrongly) I eyeballed as having a smaller form factor despite then-cutting edge hi-beat movements (not all of which were hand wound), I feel like the Seiko line-up's larger sizes today is a voluntary design decision. Moving from e.g. 5s to SARB you get an increase in size and thickness, and the higher end new automatics like the Presage line are thick. Many things called GS today do not fit any shirt cuff and those that do are only kept small, I feel, out of tradition.

    At a GS launch event here in Singapore last year, the Seiko representative (from Japan, with only passable English) was wearing a large bright blue Tuna with his salaryman outfit (grey suit/white shirt/black rep tie). The watch was so big it wouldn't fit in the suit cuff, let alone the shirt - and surely the man sent over from Japan to represent the brand would not do this accidentally.
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Say more words...[​IMG]

    I think I'd actually prefer it if that were true, but "case inflation" and the "look" of wearing huge watches with suits - cheap or expensive just the same - is definitely a "thing".
     
  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    Back off....you have plenty. @New Shoes1 , you let me know if you really want to get rid of that.
     
  10. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    I might have a couple for sale myself...
     
  11. Churchill W

    Churchill W Well-Known Member

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    No need to apologize, I thought you might have conflated mechanicals with automatics as some people don't know not all mechanical watches are automatics, but all automatics are mechanical watches.
     
  12. dfwcowboy

    dfwcowboy Well-Known Member

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    By that metric, Rolex watches are cheap and under engineered compared to HMT.
     
  13. crdb

    crdb Well-Known Member

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    Talking of which I noticed that all the Janatas have a misaligned crown. Not slightly, but by a good 1-2mm (3 o'clock is lower than the crown by about that). I noticed after taking one apart to remove large specs of black dust inside the dial (presumably from the workshop, since the crown stem was also covered in smaller specs of it). This explains why a couple of them were half impossible to wind (at some point I'll take them apart and realign) because whichever workshop serviced them attempted to align the dial at the cost of a diagonally bent stem. The realigned Janatas are very smooth and easy to wind and set. Unfortunately I didn't realise that the stem was bent on the hard to wind Sona and at this point the watch does not wind, presumably from a broken stem.

    The charm of real PMWs :p
     
  14. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    Say more words...
     
  15. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    Bidding war! In all seriousness, I'm not quite there yet, but will let the two of you know if and when I reach that point. I took the clasp off to get it to sit a little lower and will see if that makes enough of a difference. That said, I do have the itch to stop by a Nomos dealer today and take a look at the Club Automat as a potential replacement.
     
  16. freelawyer

    freelawyer Member

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    [​IMG]
    This Seiko is large and not suitable for all occasions, but I like it and my wife was happy when she gave it to me at Christmas.
     
  17. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    One last off-topic post, but want to dedicate this blue pants, grey jacket, 12 mm tall "dress" watch combo to @tifosi

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  18. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely horrible. All of it. LOL
     
  19. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Well-Known Member

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    With the exception of the wire lug Radiomir (and even those are clown sized), the Panerai lineup is stuffed with hockeypuck "swag" watches. All that heft and those crown gizmos, yet only 100m water resistance. Perhaps at one time these were hard-wearing military tools whose purpose necessitated their size and build (the Russian Agat - Zlatoust divers had a similar look) but nowadays they seem fit for an Invicta catalog and not much more. Really wack lines on their watches. In that category, at least Bell & Ross has a cleaner, symmetrical appearance.

    You missed the point completely. Thickness for its own sake is, in my opinion, a design fault. The submariner is a competent dive watch (though wholly overpriced, but I dont think anyone is out there arguing it needlessly thick).
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2017
  20. crdb

    crdb Well-Known Member

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    Much as I see where you are coming from, I disagree, it is a matter of taste, just as the number of buttons at the front of your coat or the width of your tie blade. In particular tie width and thickness both benefit from proportionality with the wearer.

    [​IMG]

    He would probably be happy with a Panerai and his pocket watch, based on the chain, is probably sized around that.

    [​IMG]

    His Baume & Mercier (worn on the inside of the wrist too), not vintage at the time, is a good choice for him.
     

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