1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Poor man's watch thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SirGrotius, Feb 4, 2011.

  1. dfwcowboy

    dfwcowboy Senior member

    Messages:
    464
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2016
    If you don't mind paying a little more, the SARB033 is an excellent value for a simple classic design and IMO very high up on the PMW scale. I am extremely impressed with its brother the SARB035. I think Seiko advertises something like +25/-15 seconds per day on this movement. I'm getting less than 1 second per day accuracy, which is incredible. It has 50 hours of power reserve which is also quite nice. I am so impressed with this watch, my next one will probably be the SARB017.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
    7,382
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Absolutely.

    I preferred the look of the first generation and bought it accordingly, but the lack of the hand wind feature is actually quite annoying, as I can't "top it up" with the others when I'm not wearing it. Must get a winder, but it bugged me more than I expected.

    Either way it's a brilliant watch for the money, which I think can be said for most Seikos.
     
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    Got the KW Bauhaus in. I'm not "like OMG!" blown away by the thing but then again, I wasn't expecting to be at the price. That said, it's a really nice watch and I love the look...think it works well on my wrist too. Might have Pierpoint make me a strap or maybe just try out KW's shell straps.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2017
    3 people like this.
  4. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Senior member

    Messages:
    459
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2013
    In a style like bauhaus, visual elements are sparse and require careful balance. I would be inclined to consider a date window, especially one at 3 o clock, a visual flaw in such an arrangement. Notice that Stowa and Nomos keep theirs at 6 pm or omit it entirely.

    Defakto makes some affordable ETA powered german watches with a minimalist leaning:

    http://www.defakto-uhren.de/en/watches/

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    I just picked up an orange Vostok Amphibia Neptune. This is the second re-issue done by Meranom and seems to be extremely difficult to find on the secondhand market. I love the textured dial and the applied raised indices. The paddle hands are a great vintage inspired touch:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Eventually Id like a green one ( I am debating fitting a mesh strap such as the one in this picture):

    [​IMG]


    Here is what the vintage model looked like. I am glad the re-issue omtited the date window, but I hope the next edition adds a transparent / acrylic bezel and a "sunset" dial like the classic vintage models:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2017
    2 people like this.
  5. Michigan Planner

    Michigan Planner Senior member

    Messages:
    3,016
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Location:
    Detroit-ish
    I don't know if it gets much more PMW than this one. I think I paid about $20, including shipping, for this one brand new off of eBay a couple years ago.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  6. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,505
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Location:
    Québec, Canada
    ^^ I love the Casio World Timer! Sweet little watch for the traveller who doesn't have the funds for a GMT-II.
     
  7. crdb

    crdb Senior member

    Messages:
    712
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2014
    I've now received around 80% of the HMT watches that I wanted, which I feel is enough to make a mini review.

    What is HMT? It's an old, sort of government run Indian watch company that pretty much never raised their prices or changed their models. It is known for visually distinctive watches (the Janata is probably the most famous) that are hand winding, relatively robust and quite slim and small by modern standards. They are not the most precisely finished but that adds to the charm, a little wabi sabi or shin gyo so if you will, I like the fact they are hand made and don't come off a precision Chinese mass factory.

    They are available on eBay second hand, in theory cleaned and maintained, for around $10-15 shipping and pleather strap included, which makes them the cheapest mechanical watches I know of today. I got several Sonas, Janatas and Pilots. The vendors don't seem to be much different in the service provided - ships in about 5 weeks, in the same bubble wrap, usually with a new crystal.

    The Sonas arrived first. Sona is HMT's dress line, and has a slimmer and sharper profile than the others. The gold plating is convincing and whilst the dial is not the most accurately painted it is sufficient.

    [​IMG]
    (from the eBay listing - I need to take some good photos but it is quite hard to capture either way)

    I noticed on the first Sona that it was very hard to wind and set, although chalked it up to bad cleaning. The watch was very inaccurate, gaining about 2 minutes a day. It does however suit my purpose as a slim, unnoticeable mechanical dress watch, not offensive but not distinctive either. The second Sona was in an even worse state: it was very hard to switch between the two stem positions of setting the time and winding, in fact I managed to set the time AND wind the watch at the same time for a while. I suspect the Sona's ultra slim profile does not go well with the wide tolerances typical of HMTs, or maybe these watches were not worn often and the movements deteriorated. I like the form factor and since Luches have become so much more expensive at $150+ for a model in a decent state, I'm happy with these.

    The Janata was much better. I love the font and the asymmetrical dial. The Hindi character has unfortunately faded a bit.

    [​IMG]
    (similar model on an Etsy listing)

    The winding was smooth and rapid, setting the time was as smooth as a Seiko diver, and the watch has not noticeably gained or lost over the last 24 hours on a single wind (I don't care about accuracy in the seconds when I pay $10, but it is annoying when you lose minutes). The watch wears a little larger and is more clearly of its time. I mounted it on a burgundy croc strap to match the seconds hand. The only caveat is whoever put the new crystal left a large black dust spec inside it and it is driving me crazy, although I don't dare open the watch since it runs so well. I think I will wear this quite a bit as a business casual watch (when the dress code is chinos and shirt).

    The Pilot was my favorite:

    [​IMG]
    (from http://hmtwatches.blogspot.sg/2013/11/hmt-pilot-watch-cruising-through-decades.html)

    This is a really unique design, recognisable from a mile, and I think the most domed of the crystals, which makes it extremely comfortable to wear with a shirt. Most importantly the large lugs have allowed me to FINALLY fit my David Boettcher NATO (whose leather is something like 2mm thick, which is glorious and impractical). The watch again runs without any noticeable gain or loss, winds smoothly and is easy to set. This is my new weekend watch, particularly on the comfortable strap. The lume is weak, very green and not applied particularly skillfully. Again, more "so" (natural) than "shin" (formal), and that's what I was looking for after the sterile precision of Japanese and Swiss design and QC. I do quite like the combination of black with green touches, steel and "dark chestnut" Italian leather.

    More out of curiosity than anything I got myself one of the recoloured dial Janatas:

    [​IMG]

    It is a strange textured paint effect, not completely unpleasant, but too light to be worn in even semi-formal occasions and too blue and duochrome to be casual. I've put it on an antiqued croc brown strap but I think it looks pretty average that way, so this one is in the closet until I find what to put it on. Probably navy or black. Maybe stingray would work. Like the other Janata the movement is fine.

    They are all a bit bigger than I thought; one of the watch forums calls them 35mm but they certainly look and feel larger than, say, a DateJust of similar proportions. I might say skip on the Sona, but at $10 it's not exactly going to hurt your wallet so might as well.
     
    3 people like this.
  8. dfwcowboy

    dfwcowboy Senior member

    Messages:
    464
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2016
    Interesting watches. Thanks for the review.
     
  9. boned

    boned Senior member

    Messages:
    378
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    Is there a way to buy Japan-only Seiko's in the US? Proxy or some other option?
     
  10. starro

    starro Senior member

    Messages:
    526
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2016
    That watch is a tad large for your wrist IMO. The KW is also on the thicker side for a dress watch. I think a good thickness for dress watch is 7 mm.

    Curious why you didn't consider the Art Deco watch? http://www.kentwang.com/misc/art-deco-watch.html
     
  11. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

    Messages:
    4,882
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Location:
    Australia
    The art deco watch is huge too.
     
  12. starro

    starro Senior member

    Messages:
    526
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2016
    True, I just read the description more carefully. 50 mm top to bottom is ridiculous. And one can find a genuine Art Deco timepiece for a fraction of KW's retail.
     
  13. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

    Messages:
    4,882
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Location:
    Australia
    Exactly. And remember, square and rectangular watches wear larger already anyway so this will look like a monster on just about any wrist. Shame, as it's quite a beauty otherwise.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  14. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA

    You think? Maybe due to the close up...how's this..

    [​IMG]


    I wouldn't go any bigger, but I don't think it looks big on me. I don't like the Art Deco style...just not my thing.
     
  15. starro

    starro Senior member

    Messages:
    526
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2016
    Like I said, it's only slightly too large. The lugs reach the end of your wrist, and since the arm is tubular, the lug tips will poke out from the arm.

    I'm assuming you chose this as a dress watch, and you'll be wearing it under shirt cuff, with ties, jackets, pocket squares etc. Not as an outdoors-y watch, with a T shirt and shorts for camping. So the dress watch aesthetic is for the watch not to grab disportionate attention from the rest of the outfit. This means that its diameter and thickness be circumscribed so as not to disrupt the lines flowing from arm to hand, and for complications to be kept to a minimum. The KW does have a minimalistic dial, but its size and thickness are minuses IMO.

    Try this test: wear the watch under a relatively tight shirt cuff. Are the contours of the watch poking out? Is the watch squeezing against the cuff?

    For me, the right balance is struck when there remains a thin strip of flesh from the tip of the lugs to the edge of the wrist. Think of that flesh border as the "frame" that surrounds the watch, which in this metaphor would be the painting. That's how a dress watch should look. As to the thickness, consider a manual wind watch.
     
  16. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    I hear you. This is my first non-tactical watch so I'm learning as I go. That said, the lugs don't really poke out from my wrist (that I can see)

    [​IMG]

    I also rarely button my dress shirt cuffs...don't judge me :). I'm definitely happy with this at the moment. Next watch I'm considering is 35mm so hopefully that is a better fit me. Appreciate the info.
     
  17. starro

    starro Senior member

    Messages:
    526
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2016
    Yeah that should definitely help. Another thing to keep in mind is that modern watches rarely make for good dress watches. They are usually too big, too thick, design too busy, and automatic movement as opposed to hand wind. Going vintage would solve all these problems, but of course requires more diligence.
     
  18. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    Feel free to PM me some ideas.
     
  19. Churchill W

    Churchill W Senior member

    Messages:
    2,056
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    
    You can buy them directly from Japan and have them shipped to the U.S.
     
  20. boned

    boned Senior member

    Messages:
    378
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago

    Via Seiko direct or forwarding service?

    Looking at this model specifically.

    Edit: if anyone living in Japan is willing to proxy PM me!
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2017

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by