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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montesquieu, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos Senior member

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    My man crush on [​IMG] grows stronger every day. Pretty soon I'm just going to buy him from his parents and dress him up as a teddy bear, like Paris Hilton did to Butters on South Park.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Huh? I am not sure whnay has indicated anything close to what you attempt to read into his posts.

    No incitement or excitement meant in my opinion. It is jut that, one consumer's opinion.

    Whnay is very learned. Yet his Rubbinacci, to me, turned out more like Montesquieu's than yours or Mr. Fan's [or Cantabrigian].

    Perhaps had Whnay had the same path to Mariano Rubinacci [which he has concluded as the way to go] as Mr. Fan's via you, then his end products would be more like Mr. Fan's and yours.

    Neither of them seem as comfortable with the Italian language as you.

    I am still pondering the difference between Vox's and Montesquieu's Steeds. I am assuming that they are both Edwin's [and not Vox = Edwin and Montesquieu = Edwin's son].

    If they are both Edwin, then there must be something real to the fact that some customer match better with some maker than others, and vice versa.

    Call it luck, call it spontaneous agreement, call it compatibility, but it is sure nice to see when it does occur - as in Vox and Steed, you/Mr. Fan and Rubinacci, AY/Fred and Mahon, Yatchie and Despos, and MM and Antonio Liverano.

    Great place to see and learn, that's all.

    - M
     
  3. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I am still pondering the difference between Vox's and Montesquieu's Steeds. I am assuming that they are both Edwin's [and not Vox = Edwin and Montesquieu = Edwin's son].

    If they are both Edwin, then there must be something real to the fact that some customer match better with some maker than others, and vice versa.


    I think it's more of the combination of Vox having used Steed for around a decade and I wouldn't be surprised if there's a different cutter/sewer for the two guys. Some of Monty's Steed's seem a bit sharp and stylized, but by no means do I think they deserve some of the criticism that's been leveled at them.
     
  4. EBugatti

    EBugatti Senior member

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    Really? Granted, I've never spent time in the UK, but I think the phenomenon you're describing applies in equal parts to merchants everywhere, not just tailors in Italy.

    The difference is the following: in Italy in particular there is the notion of the "cliente"--someone who knows the tailors, has been going to them for years (and families for generations), is referred, is someone of note, and/or is someone with apparent impeccable standards--that drives level of service. It is for this class of individual that the highest effort is made. If you're new/unknown etc. you are not a "cliente". The UK--take Steed as an example--have been more judiciously trying to bring the concept of bespoke to wider audience; hence, this Italianate approach would clearly miss the mark entirely. There are forces in Italy that try to combat this, but this attitude is still quite pervasive.

    Italians, in fact, can sometimes seem to be ambivalent or indifferent about new customers. Take Ferrari--go try to buy a new one if you've never owned one...
     
  5. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just to clear the air. I've been nothing but pleased with the garments I've received from Rubinacci. Although I've been lazy to photograph recent commissions, they have gotten better with time and experience (e.g. - my second DB is fits better than the first). I think other customers who have used the same tailor for a while, be it Rubinacci or Steed or Huntsman, would agree. My advice, however, to deal directly with Mariano and Gennarro in Naples for fittings still stands. I'm convinced that the minor issues I've had with my first order would have been easily dealt with by dealing directly with the mothership. My lack of speaking Italian hasn't got in the way from good service and well made garments.
     
  6. EBugatti

    EBugatti Senior member

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    Just to clear the air. I've been nothing but pleased with the garments I've received from Rubinacci. Although I've been lazy to photograph recent commissions, they have gotten better with time and experience (e.g. - my second DB is fits better than the first). I think other customers who have used the same tailor for a while, be it Rubinacci or Steed or Huntsman, would agree. My advice, however, to deal directly with Mariano and Gennaro in Naples for fittings still stands. I'm convinced that the minor issues I've had with my first order would have been easily dealt with by dealing directly with the mothership. My lack of speaking Italian hasn't got in the way from good service and well made garments.

    (FTFY--"Gennaro" has one "r")

    Again, you're proving my point: you say your suits "have gotten better with time and experience" and you advise to "deal directly with Mariano..."; as a returning customer, you are no longer "new" and dealing with the owner (so you are remembered) is always helpful. You are building your position as a cliente. It is just easier if you go with someone who is already a cliente. That's all I'm saying.
     
  7. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    (FTFY--"Gennaro" has one "r")

    Again, you're proving my point: you say your suits "have gotten better with time and experience" and you advise to "deal directly with Mariano..."; as a returning customer, you are no longer "new" and dealing with the owner (so you are remembered) is always helpful. You are building your position as a cliente. It is just easier if you go with someone who is already a cliente. That's all I'm saying.


    I wasn't responding to you and I've never doubted your "point".
     
  8. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    You need some/more structure in your shoulders. With your build you can't carry an unpadded/lightly padded shoulder. It makes the tailoring look sloppy.

    I am going to second this point. A lot of your stuff looks good, but I do think your right shoulder could use some attention. The really soft shoulders call too much attention to it. My two cents really.
     
  9. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    recent commissions, they have gotten better with time and experience (e.g. - my second DB is fits better than the first).

    Are you continuing with A&S as well?

    - M
     
  10. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are you continuing with A&S as well?

    - M


    Yes
     
  11. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Haven't read the threak, so apologies for probably repeating others.

    Personally, I feel the Attolinis work best for the OP. His build, esp. his shoulders, must make life difficult for any tailor, but Attolini suits him well. The others aren't bad, of course, but not as flattering IMO.
     
  12. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    ^^Please don't re-rail the thread. Thanks.
     
  13. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    ^^Please don't re-rail the thread. Thanks.

    Apologies. I will work harder in future. [​IMG]
     
  14. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    How much is C. Attolini Bespoke going for these days? Price
    $8,900-$9,500??

    Is it truly Bespoke now? or Glorified MTM?
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Is it truly Bespoke now? or Glorified MTM?

    IMPORTANT NOTICE: No media files are hosted on these forums. By clicking the link below you agree to view content from an external website. We can not be held responsible for the suitability or legality of this material. If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later. I AGREE

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    - B
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    IMPORTANT NOTICE: No media files are hosted on these forums. By clicking the link below you agree to view content from an external website. We can not be held responsible for the suitability or legality of this material. If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later. I AGREE

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    Machine-padded collar!!! Machine-padded collar!!!
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Machine-padded collar!!! Machine-padded collar!!!
    [​IMG]


    Is it not a remote possibility that a machine padded collar is being used in the Attolini basted fitting and that indeed a hand-padded will be used for the real, official collar?[​IMG]
     
  18. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Machine-padded collar!!! Machine-padded collar!!!

    That whole video was pretty ambiguous about a lot of things.

    --Andre
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is it not a remote possibility that a machine padded collar is being used in the Attolini basted fitting and that indeed a hand-padded will be used for the real, official collar?[​IMG]

    I suppose . . . but what would the point of that be?

    That whole video was pretty ambiguous about a lot of things.

    True, but that collar is definitely machine-padded, right?
     
  20. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    True, but that collar is definitely machine-padded, right?

    I find it vanishingly unlikely that in a gigantic, aircraft-hanger sized factory making RTW clothes for self-branded and third-party global retail that a single machine operation would exist.

    I am willing to bet 2000 of my post count on that undeniable fact.

    That's right: dial me back to the 17000s if you doubt me.


    - B
     

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