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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montesquieu, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    so the people who get their stuff from Naples like the Attolini and Rubinacci and the people that get their stuff in england like the Steeds. Wonders never cease.........
     
  2. binge

    binge Senior member

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    In the photos, the Attolini's look more harmonious somehow. But, since I've seen some of these worn in real life, I'm not so sure my preferences based on these photos would translate.
     
  3. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    so the people who get their stuff from Naples like the Attolini and Rubinacci and the people that get their stuff in england like the Steeds. Wonders never cease.........

    You left out the office pant wearing peanut gallery, aka the silent majority.
     
  4. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Wow, I would need two measuring tapes and a calculator and the actual coats to get that kind of intel info!

    Just check out where the coats land on Monty's thumbs. They are lower on the Attolini's while right at the bottom of the thumb on the Rubinacci's and Steed's. This makes the quarters appear more balanced to my eye.
     
  5. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    so the people who get their stuff from Naples like the Attolini and Rubinacci and the people that get their stuff in england like the Steeds. Wonders never cease.........
    I like some English stuff more than the rubis posted, but I like steed's clothing, almost to a piece, less than almost every other English tailor.
     
  6. geoffmartin17

    geoffmartin17 Senior member

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    I think the real issue here is : what the fuck do you do, and how can i do it? Suits look great, Attolini looks the best. -Geoff
     
  7. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    I think the real issue here is : what the fuck do you do, and how can i do it?

    Suits look great, Attolini looks the best.

    -Geoff


    Are your thighs meaty?
     
  8. 0b5cur1ty

    0b5cur1ty Senior member

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    I think the real issue here is : what the fuck do you do, and how can i do it?
    After 6 pages of discussion, it's good to see someone finally cut right to the heart of the issue.
     
  9. geoffmartin17

    geoffmartin17 Senior member

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    Thanks.

    That was a moderately serious question, too.
     
  10. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    The last one, the Castangia, looks best to me. I like the fit of everything about it, and I think it would probably look better yet without the sweater.

    I dont think any of them look bad. I like the way that the first Attolini fits, and the Attolini navy pinstripe.

    I like the first Rubinacci except the pant. Maybe their Naples shop would work better, the stuff they're putting out for Matt look fantastic.


    FTFY.
     
  11. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    Judging by the pictures he seems to stand in interesting places a lot. At least more often then I do.
     
  12. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    With just a quick look, I like Attolini #5 the best. Good all around shape.

    I didn't peruse too carefully and haven't read any of the other comments. Overall, the Attolinis look pretty nice to me. It must be kinda fun to try out all those different tailoring shops. Nice wardrobe.
     
  13. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    First of all, Montesquieu, thanks for posting these, especially on a forum known for its nitpicking.

    I do wonder, and I hope I didn't miss an earlier answer: Are you asking for these to be extra slim? They're much more snug than I'd expect.
     
  14. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Attolini for the win.

    90% of your pants need retooling.
     
  15. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    Attolini #7 is by far my favorite. It is a beautiful jacket.

    -LR
     
  16. tutee

    tutee Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think you should focus more on your pants than on the jackets. While some of the coats are better than others, they are all, at worse, very servicable. Your pants, on the other hand.......

    +1^10

    welcome to bespoke understood only waistup. Beautiful jackets but (to OP) oh boy what happend to below waist? None of the pants have the right balance!

    You know they charged you for pants too lol!

    If you do have pants where balance /fall is correct, please post pictures (front ,side and back) as they will be most valuable to others. Thank you for sharing the pictures.
     
  17. Lendial

    Lendial Well-Known Member

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    not to nitpick: 1^10 is still 1 [​IMG] steed rubinacci attolini is the criticism for steed due to the slight bunching of material near the first button, or the shapely siluhoute? the latter of which i found to be the winning factor.
     
  18. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Rubinacci #1- Elegant fits beautifully

    Steed #5- Bold and Ivy-inspired. I love it

    Castagnia #1 Fit is flattering

    My opinion is prejudiced by the fact that I dislike patch pockets, ticket
    pockets, and broad overplaids.
     
  19. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    Attolini #4,5 and 7 look fantastic ... the steed trousers in that grey 3-piece is fantastic. Something seems off with the steed jackets in general, maybe they need more time to settle on the body. Maybe for your next commission you can talk to Edwin about having the jackets with a less accentuated waist. The Rubinaccis have good silhouette but don't look as good as the Attolinis.

    I really like your fabric choices for your bespoke items. You have excellent taste.
     
  20. Montesquieu

    Montesquieu Senior member

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    Thanks, everyone, for the opinions expressed. They've been as provocative, detailed, and contradictory as anticipated.

    The criticisms levelled at these skilled tailors show how hard this is to get right, and how hard-to-please we are collectively. God doesn't put perfection within easy reach. Otherwise, Butler's final 3 would have fallen. As for the critique of my color- and style-deprived judgment, points taken.

    I can't help but feel that were I a smarter customer, I might get better results. Vox, Manton, Mao, PG, and others demonstrate this. My attention splits across too many interests, and I've simplistically relied on masters rather than learn enough to challenge them.

    I just watched a video of Richard Sachs, the preeminent American handmade bicycle framemaker on whose waiting list I will wait for the next 7+ years. One of his several mottos is "imperfection is perfection". I've accepted that that applies to clothing as well, since I enjoy a number of my imperfections.



    I do wonder, and I hope I didn't miss an earlier answer: Are you asking for these to be extra slim? They're much more snug than I'd expect.

    90% of your pants need retooling.

    +1^10

    welcome to bespoke understood only waistup. Beautiful jackets but (to OP) oh boy what happend to below waist? None of the pants have the right balance!

    You know they charged you for pants too lol!



    In response to so much criticism of my trousers, I'll say a few words about them. First, most of the non-suit trousers shown are slim-fit Incotex and Cucinelli. If RTW gets slimmer than that, I don't know where. Second, I like the way that Incotex and Cucinelli look and fit. The vitriole surprises me, but so be it. Third, don't presume that bespoke is the solution. My Ambrosis are baggier, despite multiple rounds of "thinning", and have been well criticized as such in other threads.

    As for the bespoke trousers shown, I agree that the Rubinacci suit, Attolini dinner, and Steed suit trousers have excess room. The Rubinacci was originally even baggier, before I made a final (fourth?) visit to the Milan store just to have them taken in. Why the struggle? I presume that it stems from an unusual physique. In two weeks, I'll run my third mountain ultramarathon of 2010 before switching back to cycling. My legs are short relative to my height and muscular relative to my thin waist.

    Perhaps there's a well-tailored solution. Perhaps I'm doomed to look imperfect. Resignation to the latter reduces my expectation for the former. But the criticism is well taken, and I'll pay more attention in the future. I posted in order to get this kind of input.
     

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