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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montesquieu, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Err... I was jesting?

    Err....he wasn't?
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Err....he wasn't?

    [​IMG]


    - B
     
  3. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Moderators please freeze the poal at 88 for Attolini.

    It might bring good ruck to Montesquieu and his quest.

    - M
     
  4. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    Fittings (3x per jacket) were done in their tiny, decades-old Naples atelier, which apparently relocated to Via Filangieri a few months ago. My experience in their atelier in no way resembled that shown in the video; it instead felt more authentic than either Rubinacci Milan or Edwin's shared space on Savile Row. Measuring and cutting is done by a 70+ year Sr. Attolini (cousin of Cesare?). Cesare Attolini was there in the store only once in my five or so visits. I gathered that they sometimes perform the cutting in the factory, but not if you're a "good client" or have a difficult fabric. Sewing is done in the factory.

    IMHO the cutting and fitting are more important to the bespoke/custom experience than the sewing. I can see how their model might work fine.
     
  5. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    Mafoofan, it seems the OP's answer to my question confirms part of your comment.

    It appears Attolini has their bespoke client's sewing done on the assembly floor, and thus they comingle some of the work for their RTW/MTM and bespoke clothing in this factory.

    Perhaps the OP can provide us with more details?
     
  6. Montesquieu

    Montesquieu Senior member

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    Mafoofan, it seems the OP's answer to my question confirms part of your comment.

    It appears Attolini has their bespoke client's sewing done on the assembly floor, and thus they comingle some of the work for their RTW/MTM and bespoke clothing in this factory.

    Perhaps the OP can provide us with more details?


    My understanding is that all sewing and some of the bespoke cutting is done in the factory. I do not know whether or not it is comingled at the worker level. Probably the bespoke cutting and sewing is given to their most experienced workers. That would seem the logical way to run things, but I can't confirm how they manage operations.
     
  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I guess since I finally posted in this thread, I should say something.

    Overall, I like all of your stuff. I'm like you and wear different styles from different makers. Sure, there are common elements, but I'm not a one-maker guy.

    I'm also convinced that you are squarely in the ranks of the surprisingly (to me) numerous guys who are...for want of putting this delicately...shaped in a way quite off from the standard. In your case, it's from genetics and also from being a freak of athletic accomplishment.

    Your main resolvable issue is the waist suppression that you have on most of your items and all of your Steed jackets. I feel it is a bit too much, and of the type of waist suppression which is simply taken in at the sides rather than something built into the overall cut. I say this because I see flare in the way that your quarters open in many shots. The style of fronts that you have should fall more closed. I wonder if you asked for more suppression at your fittings...perchance did that happen?

    The good news is that there should be a fair amount seam allowance, at least in your English stuff, so that this can be dialed back with little problem. Since you seem to wear sweaters a lot, I think it is worthwhile being fitted with them on, at least for those numbers that you think that you will wear that way often.

    I don't have the problems that many have with your pants. To the extent that they could be improved, I think that the Ambrosis suffer from their endemic balance deficiencies. In all respects their are made meticulously, but it seems that everyone who has posted up a photograph of one does not have trouser with correct front/back balance.

    You're still very natty and to my eye, your overall style need make but few apologies (stuff those hankies further in the pockets please, however.) You live in California, after all, and you are probably one of fewer than ten guys in the whole state who might wear a necktie from time to time.


    - B
     
  8. gomestar

    gomestar Senior member

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    I think that the Ambrosis suffer from their endemic balance deficiencies. In all respects their are made meticulously, but it seems that everyone who has posted up a photograph of one does not have trouser with correct front/back balance.

    could you elaborate on this "balance" issue with Ambrosi? I'm not quite sure exactly what it is or what to look for.

    Since I'm solely a visual learner, a Microsoft Paint illustration would help.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think that the Ambrosis suffer from their endemic balance deficiencies. In all respects their are made meticulously, but it seems that everyone who has posted up a photograph of one does not have trouser with correct front/back balance.

    Mine do. And they actually fit again since I have had them taken in.
     
  10. Montesquieu

    Montesquieu Senior member

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    Your main resolvable issue is the waist suppression that you have on most of your items and all of your Steed jackets. I feel it is a bit too much, and of the type of waist suppression which is simply taken in at the sides rather than something built into the overall cut. I say this because I see flare in the way that your quarters open in many shots. The style of fronts that you have should fall more closed. I wonder if you asked for more suppression at your fittings...perchance did that happen?

    The good news is that there should be a fair amount seam allowance, at least in your English stuff, so that this can be dialed back with little problem. Since you seem to wear sweaters a lot, I think it is worthwhile being fitted with them on, at least for those numbers that you think that you will wear that way often.
    - B


    Several have asked whether I asked for waist suppression. The answer to that specific question is "no", although I'll go back to Edwin and ask whether he interpreted any of our conversations differently. I was already a client of Attolini and Rubinacci when the British pound plummeted in early 2009, leading me to opportunistically give Savile Row a try. Knowing that my Attolinis were naturally cut lean, and that a roomy garment would look silly on my frame, I did tell him that I like jackets that complement my lean atheletic shape. He might have interpreted that as wanting waist suppression, but my priority all along was to try out his vision for an A&S-like/drape cut as an alternative to the Naples varieties in my closet.

    I'll share the photos with him and get his input on whether some adjustment would help, as many of you have recommended. He's a great guy and will surely welcome the opportunity to perfect my pattern, which as previously stated didn't have an opportunity to evolve fully as these jackets were made on overlapping schedules. If we do make adjustments, I'll post "before and after" shots.
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    could you elaborate on this "balance" issue with Ambrosi? I'm not quite sure exactly what it is or what to look for.

    Since I'm solely a visual learner, a Microsoft Paint illustration would help.


    Be patient. Someone much more knowledgable than I is working on a thread that should provoke a bit of thought on the subject.

    - B
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Mine do. And they actually fit again since I have had them taken in.

    There's someone who will want photographs if you are willing, then. I'm sure that he will contact you directly if he hasn't already.


    - B
     
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Several have asked whether I asked for waist suppression. The answer to that specific question is "no", although I'll go back to Edwin and ask whether he interpreted any of our conversations differently.

    Well, what I think I see (keep in mind that I am no expert) is not something that I would expect to happen before the forward fitting.

    At your forward fittings, with Edwin or your other makers, were the sides ever pinned? Did anyone, oh, pinch the sides and ask you if you preferred the resulting look?

    You see, it is not so much as the waists are overly suppressed as they are a bit "pinched" looking. Suppression is taken out all through the round, ideally, and not just from the sides.

    Anyway, I think that you can easily improve some of your ensembles in a meaningful way if you discuss with your guys whether or not unwinching the waist a bit will balance out your jackets more.

    Just one man's opinion.


    - B
     
  14. Montesquieu

    Montesquieu Senior member

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    Well, what I think I see (keep in mind that I am no expert) is not something that I would expect to happen before the forward fitting.

    At your forward fittings, with Edwin or your other makers, were the sides ever pinned? Did anyone, oh, pinch the sides and ask you if you preferred the resulting look?

    You see, it is not so much as the waists are overly suppressed as they are a bit "pinched" looking. Suppression is taken out all through the round, ideally, and not just from the sides.

    Anyway, I think that you can easily improve some of your ensembles in a meaningful way if you discuss with your guys whether or not unwinching the waist a bit will balance out your jackets more.

    Just one man's opinion.


    - B


    A most welcome opinion at that. I've already emailed Edwin to get his input on the pictures and question.
     
  15. Redwoood

    Redwoood Senior member

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    A most welcome opinion at that. I've already emailed Edwin to get his input on the pictures and question.

    He's probably thinking

    "This customer used to be satisfied. Now, suddenly, he's not happy with the suits I made for him.
    [​IMG] Styleforum!"
     
    2 people like this.
  16. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    Be patient. Someone much more knowledgable than I is working on a thread that should provoke a bit of thought on the subject.

    - B


    Is five months to the day patient enough? Time to crack the wip on this phantom anaysis B.

    We need provocation but not the kind of silly provocation that the Rake did on Camp de Luca. Please be mindful of that.

    Thanks in advance.

    G
     
  17. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Is five months to the day patient enough? Time to crack the wip on this phantom anaysis B.

    We need provocation but not the kind of silly provocation that the Rake did on Camp de Luca. Please be mindful of that.

    Thanks in advance.

    G


    Thread came out a while ago:

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=177616


    - B
     
  18. George

    George Senior member

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    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    Thread came out a while ago: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=177616 - B
    Has Tutee ever wielded a pair of shears? If not, remember simply reading Greys anatomy doesn't make you a surgeon. Amateurs should learn when to shut the fuck up. [​IMG]
     
  19. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Has Tutee ever wielded a pair of shears? If not, remember simply reading Greys anatomy doesn't make you a surgeon. [​IMG]
    The same could be said of Sator. But he provides information which is useful to some people.
     
  20. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Has Tutee ever wielded a pair of shears?

    If not, remember simply reading Greys anatomy doesn't make you a surgeon.

    Amateurs should learn when to shut the fuck up.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.

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