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Pocket squares redux

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by JFK, Jul 29, 2004.

  1. JFK

    JFK Well-Known Member

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    A couple of weeks ago, I posted a question about pocket squares and got a great discussion going that generated some great tips. Based on several recommendations, I decided to get a couple of linen squares to start, and I found a site called Giovanni's Imports where I ordered the following two squares (both Irish linen, $17 and $19, respectively): [​IMG] [​IMG] I got them today, and they're quite elegant; I'm very happy with them. I do have a follow-on question for those of you that regularly wear a square: Is the square supposed to lie pretty flat, or should it add a certain amount of "bulk" to the breast pocket (for lack of a better way to describe it)? It seems that, no matter which way I fold them, the bulge is quite noticeable in profile; is that normal, or do I just need to practice my folding technique some more? (I think they're the standard size: 17" and 18" square, respectively. I tried the "Cagney", the "Presidential", and the "Straight Shell" folds from this page.)
     


  2. Phil

    Phil Senior Member

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    There is always going to be some amount of bulge when you stuff it in the pocket. Some ways of folding the square make for less bulge. The tv fold, as its called, is one like this. Its just a simple horizontal fold, and really creates very little bulge. However, if you want to puff the fold, or stick it in your pocket on an angle, some bulging is to expected. As long as it isnt distracting, it really makes no difference. Hope that helps.
     


  3. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    Roetzel in Gentleman insists you want some volume to the fold, although his example is a Hermes silk square. I think some volume is to be desired as one doesn't want the pocket square on a card look.
     


  4. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Distinguished Member

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    I'm wearing an Hermes silk pocket square this morning with the "Astaire" fold from your link and often wear a white cotton or linen square in the "Cagney" fold. You'll always get some volume and I agree with Alan C. that it is a plus.
     


  5. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Distinguished Member

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    The problem is that many breast pockets on suits don't provide adequate volume for the square.

    koji
     


  6. JFK

    JFK Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Phil - I did try the TV fold, but didn't care much for it - or the "Presidential", either, for that matter; they just don't seem to have the visual interest of a fold with points.
    This is an excellent point, and one I hadn't considered (even though I saw some "pre-folded" linen squares on a card in  a department store recently and thought, "how tacky." [​IMG] ); thanks, Alan. Thanks for the reinforcement, Stylestudent; the Cagney is my favorite so far (with the "Straight Shell" a close second; the square-top look is much more interesting with the pleats), but I only have the two linen squares; I'm sure when I get some silks that the Astaire will be another favorite (the linen doesn't seem to be well-suited to the Astaire look, but I can see where it would work perfectly with silk). And another good point, koji, my fellow musician; do you have any suggestions for cases where the breast pocket is somewhat lacking in room? (My navy blazer seems to have this problem.)
     


  7. Phil

    Phil Senior Member

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    this is a complete tangent to the thread, but you had mentioned you have only 2 squares at the moment. A great way to increase the collection is to buy cheap bandanas (the classic kind, with those patterns on it). I know that seems silly, but I bought a 10 pack on Canal st. a few years ago in a full spectrum of colors. I end up using them all the time as pocket squares, and I can say that I have gotten so many compliments on them that its crazy. I washed them about 6 times with my laundry so that they were soft and a bit faded. I wouldnt go and wear a red bandana pocket square with a really dressy suit, but with most suits, and definetely sportcoats, they look great. I have a lilac colored one that I swear every time I wear it a woman compliments me on it. I figure I must be doing something right.
     


  8. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    Along the same lines, I picked up a box of three blue and white patterned handkerchiefs at Marshall's (Nautica, I think) that I use as pocket squares all along to, I believe, positive effect. Each of them has a distinctly different pattern. They work very well in a sportscoat or blazer.
     


  9. JFK

    JFK Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tips.
     


  10. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Distinguished Member

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    I think some volume is to be desired as one doesn't want the pocket square on a card look.
    This is an excellent point, and one I hadn't considered (even though I saw some "pre-folded" linen squares on a card in  a department store recently and thought, "how tacky." [​IMG] ); thanks, Alan. Thanks for the reinforcement, Stylestudent; the Cagney is my favorite so far (with the "Straight Shell" a close second; the square-top look is much more interesting with the pleats), but I only have the two linen squares; I'm sure when I get some silks that the Astaire will be another favorite (the linen doesn't seem to be well-suited to the Astaire look, but I can see where it would work perfectly with silk). And another good point, koji, my fellow musician; do you have any suggestions for cases where the breast pocket is somewhat lacking in room? (My navy blazer seems to have this problem.)
    You can always fold them over once again (I'm assuming you're using a "tv" fold), but it's an annoyance with many suits, I've found. I've heard two different attributions of that famous trombone quote, the other being Stravinsky....? koji
     


  11. JFK

    JFK Well-Known Member

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    Really? I've only heard it attributed to Strauss, but then, I'm no musicologist... [​IMG] I like your new sig quote, too; it's so true... Say, you're a pianist, aren't you? Do you play LvB much? I love the late sonatas (especially the c minor opus 111)...
     


  12. mano

    mano Senior Member

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    I use the Cagney exclusively. I have about 20 silk squares split between solid colors and various patterns and use a Jiffy steamer to "iron" the square as I fold it. It's usually damp when I'm done, but dries fairly quickly, before putting it in my pocket. Linen squares look nice, too. Gotta get one.
     


  13. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    Has anyone taken a look at the Joseph A. Bank (yes, yes, I know) solid silk pocket squares? They sell for about $12 and I thought they might be decent for basic use. You can view them on Amazon, of all places.
     


  14. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Distinguished Member

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    j.crew's got a new line (~8-10) of silk pocket squares in-store. they don't have them on their website yet, but here's a tie to give you an idea of the brightness of the colors. i think there's one square with a very similar look to this tie. they are all striped squares, in several different colors. price is $22. [​IMG]
     


  15. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    I stopped by J Crew today to see the pocket squares. They are all silk, and the silk is rich and substantive with a good roll on the edge. The squares are made in China, however. They're attractive, I think, and I'll keep an eye open for when they go on sale, perhaps picking one up then.
     


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