Please tell me what you think of this suit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by josepidal, May 18, 2006.

  1. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    I'm thinking of having a suit made by a tailor whose shop is near my house, and he's considered upscale in my place. I put on a jacket he made for my Dad, who's a bit smaller in size than I am, but I was wondering what you guys would think of the suit construction based on these photos.

    Think this guy will work for me?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  2. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Doesn't look bad. Are your shoulders really that square, or is there heavy padding? See how little padding he's comfortable using. You want your shoulders to appear an inch or so wider than your hips, no more than that. Moderate waist suppression. The lapel width suits you but the huge notch is very '70s, see if you can narrow it up a bit. Most importantly, open up the skirt a little bit. No, a lot. The straight-down front quarters call attention to your hips; an inverted V will do a lot to slim down the look. I would start the flare just above the bottom button. Lower the pockets?

    I know you asked about the construction, but it's nearly impossible to tell from the pics. How's the fabric feel? The wrinkles at your side make it look like it's fairly soft construction and canvassing.

    Hope that helps-
    Tom
     


  3. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    I can't say for sure but that doesn't look like a very well-made suit coat. The pockets, lapels, buttons, and shoulders don't look very good. But it's hard to speak with more certainty as the picture quality isn't the best and the coat is very ill-fitting on you. The styling is also pretty far off.
     


  4. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    coat is too tight dude.
     


  5. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    I would think a lower button stance would look better on your frame. I agree with Whoopee that the jacket looks pretty off in various areas, in addition to you already mentioning the jacket is too small for you, as fit seems to be another issue.
     


  6. johnnynorman

    johnnynorman Well-Known Member

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    Is the coat fused? The top corners of the lapels are curling away from the chest. This is a common sign of fusing or poor construction, though in this picture it might be a result of the very poor fit of that jacket.
     


  7. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    Fused, because he thinks it's a more modern construction, but he offers canvassing for the same price.

    For my education, why, specifically, are the details like lapels not the best looking? I could post the higher res photos.
     


  8. jml90

    jml90 Senior member

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    Fused, because he thinks it's a more modern construction, but he offers canvassing for the same price.

    For my education, why, specifically, are the details like lapels not the best looking? I could post the higher res photos.


    IMO Notch is too wide
     


  9. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    To clarify, I was wondering if I might just ask the tailor to make me a suit but with clear instructions in the sense that his worksmanship may be okay but his taste is a bit off. So if I specify details such as lapels, pockets, buttons, and especially all that shoulder padding, etc., I was wondering if it might work.
     


  10. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh god, please don't hurt me......
     


  11. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Not a great deal.

    It has the look of a fused garment - lapels curling and a 'dead' appearance across the front - notwthstanding the size differentail.
     


  12. GreyFlannelMan

    GreyFlannelMan Senior member

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    Is that jacket unvented? If so, that is not a style you should go with on your own jacket.
     


  13. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    What would the opposite of "dead" be?

    Side vents would be best, right?
     


  14. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    In terms of style, this is what i recommand, the measurements are relative to the coat that you are wearing:
    1. 1 inch longer in coat length to cover your butt completely.
    2. Side vents.
    3. about 0.5 inch lower top button.
    4. for lapels, narrow on the bottom but gradually wider on the top.
    5. High goerge.
    6. about 0.5 inch lower jacket pocket.
    7. You need light padding with more sloped shoulders
     


  15. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    By the way. Are lapels supposed to be flat against the chest or should they curl a bit?
     


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