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Please help with first MTM shirt fit!

saosurvive

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Hey guys, after reading this forum daily for the past few months I've decided it's time I started dressing for my age (almost 30). So long band t-shirts and ripped jeans, hello proper clothes. Step one, new shirts.

I went with ModernTailor, since the $20 test shirt is a fantastic idea and a great way to dial in my measurements. I told them that, being a slim guy (6'2" and 150lbs soaking wet) I prefer a very slim european/soho fit. I finally received my sample the other day in the mail, and these are the results after washing and hang-drying.








These are my impressions:
- The hips should be made a bit wider as it's pulling around the bottom button. Conversely, the waist could use a bit more suppression, at least in the back (maybe darts?).
- When I cross my arms, it's incredibly tight in the underarms, back of shoulders and back. Would adding an inch or so to the chest fix this?
- There is something about the shoulders that isn't quite right, and it's highlighted in when I elevate my arms. It looks like the boxy torso/arm effect of a really cheap suit jacket.
- I am quite happy with the sleeves. Having slender arms, I always feel like OTR shirts are billowy and blouse-y so it was refreshing to have sleeves that actually followed MY arm. Does it look like they could use a bit more length though?

I've come to respect the opinions of those here on SF as you all have, for the most part, great style and a keen eye. I'd love to hear your ideas on how to adjust my measurement and what to tell MT so that my next shirts are fantastic and stylish.

Cheers,
T.
 

dirtyturk

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Nov 21, 2010
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Congratulations on your first MtM shirt.

Yeah something wrong with those shoulders. And the forearms/cuffs look a little baggy for your "style". Keep in mind the fabric on the test shirts is usually awful so the fits are a little stiff.

Perhaps the armholes need to be higher, there should be a measurement you gave for that. Maybe also reduce the shoulder length a bit
The mid section fit is a personal style choice but I would maybe add an inch to the hips. It would reduce the tightness down there and give the top a more fluid drape?

A quick way to see what needs to be done is to fold over the placket in the chest/waist/hips. Thats usually close to 2in reduction (1in if giving half chest measurements) so that should give you an idea before you decide to reduce anymore. My recommendation is always find a shirt you like that fits your torso and give shirt measurements and appropriate sleeve lengths. It's very hard for a tired foreign tailor to know what a "soho" style should fit like, so best keep the style decisions with you.
 

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