1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

PLEASE Help! Fashion crisis for a tall slim guy!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by madtownmatt, Jun 22, 2006.

  1. madtownmatt

    madtownmatt New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2006
    I'm having a real problem. I am 6'3, 165. I'm definitely a beanpole. I cannot find any dress shirts, button down shirts, or short sleeve button down shirts that fit me. It seems I am faced with the perpetual problem of buying shirts that fit me through the torso, but are much too short, i.e. if I lift my arms even the SLIGHTEST bit my shirt comes obviously untucked, or I am forced to buy larger shirts that are long enough, but then I have sails, like on sails on a sail boat, coming out from my sides. What I feel I like I need are shirts that are sized like Medium-Tall, but I don't know where the hell to find them, if the exist. I feel like I need to be either 20 lbs. heavier or 3 inches shorter. If you have any suggestions I would GREATLY appreciate it. I'm tired of settling for shirts that never fit. It becomes even more frustrating now that I am entering the professional world. In the past (as a student/grad student) I have been just wearing nicer shirts that fit through the torso and leaving them untucked so the length is less of an issue, however that will clearly not fly in the professional world. If you have any ideas on big & tall (really thin & tall) websites/national chains, forums, that would offer something like a Medium-Tall size please let me know, I haven't been able to find anything. Although admittedly I am a fasion novice. Why oh why can't they add 3 more inches and an extra couple buttons on a medium shirt, seriously it isn't that much to tuck in, and it would REALLY help out people like me.

    Thanks so much,

    Matt
     
  2. Violinist

    Violinist Senior member

    Messages:
    1,907
    Joined:
    May 12, 2006
    I'm having a real problem. I am 6'3, 165. I'm definitely a beanpole. I cannot find any dress shirts, button down shirts, or short sleeve button down shirts that fit me. It seems I am faced with the perpetual problem of buying shirts that fit me through the torso, but are much too short, i.e. if I lift my arms even the SLIGHTEST bit my shirt comes obviously untucked, or I am forced to buy larger shirts that are long enough, but then I have sails, like on sails on a sail boat, coming out from my sides. What I feel I like I need are shirts that are sized like Medium-Tall, but I don't know where the hell to find them, if the exist. I feel like I need to be either 20 lbs. heavier or 3 inches shorter. If you have any suggestions I would GREATLY appreciate it. I'm tired of settling for shirts that never fit. It becomes even more frustrating now that I am entering the professional world. In the past (as a student/grad student) I have been just wearing nicer shirts that fit through the torso and leaving them untucked so the length is less of an issue, however that will clearly not fly in the professional world. If you have any ideas on big & tall (really thin & tall) websites/national chains, forums, that would offer something like a Medium-Tall size please let me know, I haven't been able to find anything. Although admittedly I am a fasion novice. Why oh why can't they add 3 more inches and an extra couple buttons on a medium shirt, seriously it isn't that much to tuck in, and it would REALLY help out people like me.

    Thanks so much,

    Matt


    I see. My cleaning person deals with the same problem. A good frame for "fashion", but not OTR. I think that when he gathers all his pennies, he told me he's going to spring for MTM shirts, which will serve him very well. It's odd that for the ideal body type, there's nothing in terms of menswhere that really, really fits.
     
  3. madtownmatt

    madtownmatt New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2006
    Thanks for responding. Your acronyms are over my head. What do you mean by OTR, and by OTM shirts. Do you have any ideas for what I could do?
     
  4. Jovan

    Jovan Senior member

    Messages:
    2,533
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    OTR = Off The Rack. MTM = Made To Measure, a step up above OTR where they'll just slightly adjust your details on a pre existing clothing pattern. It's not like bespoke where a whole new pattern is created just for you and thus fits better, but it's definitely a step up.

    EDIT: I knew, but I got my words mixed up somehow. Thanks, whoopee!
     
  5. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    A pedantic note: OTR = Off The Rack. And I would dispute the OP's body as being the fashion ideal.

    I also suggest you go MTM or bespoke. Even designers known for cutting slim like Dior Homme and Balenciaga probably won't work well and certainly aren't the best value.
     
  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I share your problem. If MTM or bespoke is out of your price range, my best advice: Buy shirts that fit in terms of the collar, shoulder and length. Then find a good alterations tailor and have your shirts taken in. Both the torso and the arms can be reduced easily. It's a simple procedure, and shouldn't run more than $20 or so. Well worth the investment.
     
  7. madtownmatt

    madtownmatt New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2006
    Buying tailored stuff is clearly out of my price range. I'm just a starving grad student entering the working world now. I have something like 100k in student loans staring me in the face. Grew up in rural Nebraska where no one gave a sh*t what you wore. Went to UW-Madison which was something like Berkeley-north and you'd have to look up from your bowl & beer to notice. Now I've been at UVA, country club u, and things are clearly different that way. Now I'm going to be working... Once upon a time it was easy because I was overweight and larger sized shirts are longer. I lost 60+ lbs. Went from 230 to 165. Now it's impossible to find clothes. I have a closet full of Ralph Lauren polo and Lacoste shirts i got for 66% of at Dillards or bought off ebay that don't come close to fitting, and can't find new ones that fit because they are too short... I bought all my name brand stuff for like $25-40 in the opposite season. I guess I'm looking for the magic answer. Do you know of any major department store brands doing something like a Medium-Tall??
     
  8. hobo

    hobo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    the body on nordstrom's store brand stuff is pretty long. so long that normal people cannot wear them untucked. You can get tailored and long versions too.
     
  9. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

    Messages:
    615
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2004
  10. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    Jantzen for custom shirts must be mentioned (~$45/shirt).
     
  11. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Buying tailored stuff is clearly out of my price range. I'm just a starving grad student entering the working world now. I have something like 100k in student loans staring me in the face. Once upon a time it was easy because I was overweight and larger sized shirts are longer. I lost 60+ lbs. Went from 230 to 165. Now it's impossible to find clothes. I guess I'm looking for the magic answer. Do you know of any major department store brands doing something like a Medium-Tall??

    Yes, sounds like you need to find a good tailor. Take your shirts that are now to big and see if the tailor can fit it down to your current body shape.
     
  12. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    BTW anyone here interested in a bespoke shirt for about $150-160 USD (more if you want a 180's or finer cotton) from a shirt maker who doesn't have a minimum order number? Beautiful Italian (and some Egyptian) fabrics, double seam stitching, split yolk, and shell buttons. He is an old colleague and countryman of Alex Kabbaz. Not the same league in terms of quality as the Alexander Kabbaz shirt with single seam stitching and mother of pearl buttons but way better than 99% of ready to wear stuff in terms of fit and fabric quality. Will provide pictures if requested.
     
  13. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

    Messages:
    9,452
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    Doesn't Lands End offer a custom program too that would be budget friendly?
     
  14. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

    Messages:
    4,892
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2004
    Lands End custom sounds like your best bet. You can tweak the fit just about endlessly.

    Some of us order shirts on-line from Jantzentailor.com. You send your measurements, pick a fabric, and the shirt arrives anywhere from 6 weeks to 6 months later. LE will certainly be quicker, but Jantzen is worth a try. Order one shirt, post a picture of yourself wearing it, collect advice on fit, then order another shirt.
     
  15. thinman

    thinman Senior member

    Messages:
    4,926
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2005
    Location:
    USA
    ....I guess I'm looking for the magic answer. Do you know of any major department store brands doing something like a Medium-Tall??

    DocHolliday has given you the magic answer. I'm 6'3" 160lbs. and followed his scheme for years, while I was po'.

    Lands' End will send you a MTM shirt (you do the measuring) and you can return it with no questions asked if you don't like it. You can also tweak measurements for the second order. I've done this: ordered one shirt, measured my best fitting dress shirt and the LE shirt, and altered my LE measurements to replicate my best fitting shirt. It worked moderately well (remember to launder the shirt several times before measuring, to pre-shrink). LE pricing starts at $49 (for cotton/poly oxford cloth, probably 80s 2-ply) plus tax and shipping.

    I've now gone custom and MTM with WW Chan ($110 each), Individualized Shirts ($140 each), and Brooks Brothers ($130-165 each).
     
  16. Andrew V.

    Andrew V. Senior member

    Messages:
    405
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2004
    Location:
    Ohio, United States
    gap.com and bananarepublic.com offer lots of shirts in medium-tall. At both brands, some of the different fits of shirts, both in button-ups and and t-shirts and such, are slimmer and some are baggier. My advice would be to order several styles from each (enough to get over the $100 or so minimum for free shipping) and then return the ones that you don't like to the nearest Gap or BR store.
     
  17. Matt

    Matt Senior member

    Messages:
    11,179
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2005
    Location:
    Sunny Saigon
    give Jantzen a try. For the ~$40 outlay you cant really go wrong.

    Post here with any queries about how to measure yourself/your shirts and then order one and post pics here for feedback. 2-3 shirts in you should be pretty well set....
     
  18. raley

    raley Senior member

    Messages:
    781
    Joined:
    May 22, 2004
    What size is your neck? They are most likely no shirts that will fit you OTR. I am 6'1" 160 lbs and with a 16-16.5" neck, there really are no shirts that will fit me OTR (I am hoping someone will prove me wrong), it is kind of depressing.

    I would first start by finding out your true measurements - this will help you shop online and determine if there actually are any offerings out there that will fit you. My problem is that once I get up too high in the neck size, the chest/shoulders get too big. If you start buying higher quality shirts, the sleeve size won't be a problem since they normally are all in the 35-36" range.

    Chest/shoulders/waist is always a problem though. A tailor can fix the waist and slim the arms, but it is a pain in the ass. Chest really can't be changed, which sucks if you have a shirt that fits everywhere else. If you want to go OTR, you will most likely end up with a shirt that fits reasonably well in the waist (after alterations), toss up on the collar, baggy arms, and when you lift your arms you will see a bunch of fabric connecting the armhole to the body of the shirt.

    Go MTM.
     
  19. raley

    raley Senior member

    Messages:
    781
    Joined:
    May 22, 2004
    On another note, this Target program sounds interesting - has anyone actually ordered from them before? I wonder if there is a way to "crack the code" and make the right choices so that in essence I will be specifying my exact measurements. I wonder if they are returnable as well.
     
  20. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    Chest/shoulders/waist is always a problem though. A tailor can fix the waist and slim the arms, but it is a pain in the ass. Chest really can't be changed, which sucks if you have a shirt that fits everywhere else. If you want to go OTR, you will most likely end up with a shirt that fits reasonably well in the waist (after alterations), toss up on the collar, baggy arms, and when you lift your arms you will see a bunch of fabric connecting the armhole to the body of the shirt.

    I don't understand why this should be the case. Why not buy a collar that fits to start with? And slimming the arms is done easily, as long as the sides are being taken in. I often have Brooks' traditional fit (i.e., enormously tent-like) shirts taken in dramatically and have had no problems.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by