Please critique this bespoke blazer and trouser

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by ItWasAllADream, Jun 27, 2016.

  1. ItWasAllADream

    ItWasAllADream New Member

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    Hi guys - I'm in the market for a bespoke versatile blazer that I'll mostly wear with jeans, and occasionally dress up with trousers for weddings and business meetings. I've narrowed down to the following characteristics. Could you please critique on my selection? I'm looking for a slightly trendy style, but still formal enough for business meetings. Thanks in advance.

    Blazer:
    • A lighter shade of navy - what is the lightest shade I can go without making it informal for company meetings?
    • Debating between hopsack, worsted wool, open weave or birdseye weave. I'm leaning towards hopsack for its light weight (I live in SF) and wrinkle-resistance, but curious to what you guys suggest?
    • Slim fit
    • Undarted
    • Natural shoulders with minimal padding
    • Side vents
    • Single breast pocket
    • Patch side pockets. I like a modern look so I'm leaning towards no pocket flaps. What do you guys think?
    • MOP buttons

    Trousers:
    • A lighter shade of grey, khaki, or tan
    • Slim fit
    • Uncuffed trousers
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2016


  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Looks good to me....hopsack jacket and light grey trousers.
     


  3. andrewmrsid

    andrewmrsid Senior member

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    I love the versatility of a hopsack patch pocket, even a 3 roll 2. I'd do a mid gray mop button and mid gray pant. Why undarted in the front? Even for that style, I love the way a front darted jacket cleans up and his the front and keeps balance between the front and back.
     


  4. ItWasAllADream

    ItWasAllADream New Member

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    Thank you for your response.

    I like the clean and modern look of an undarted jacket, but I'm not very particular about it. Now that I think about it, if I want a slim fitting jacket, I'll probably need to go with darts.

    Do you feel hopsack may be too casual for more formal business meetings or interviews? A tailor showed me a birdseye and open weave wool. Both looked slightly more formal than hopsack, while maintaining the breathability, and also seems to match well with jeans.
     


  5. andrewmrsid

    andrewmrsid Senior member

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    I like a neat hopsack for a jacket. Combined with a shell button, it defines the blazer. Sometimes, often actually, birds eye looks too much like a suit to me. It can be too formal for a patch pocket jacket.
     


  6. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior member

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    Mother of Pearl buttons would be an odd one to me rather than the traditional horn

    You are going to have to be very careful with your fabric choice if you truely want it to go both with jeans and a formal busines meeting and in reality you are going to be compromising on one of them (if not both).

    I do like hopsack, and avoid worsted like the plague if you want it to go with jeans, but you can get some hopsacks that are too tightly woven with a very flat (getting onto shiny) finish which raises its formality levels too much for it to go with jeans even if its brought down with patch pockets, light structure and light buttons.
     


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