Please critique shoulders

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by itsstillmatt, May 11, 2006.

  1. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I would like some input on the shoulder line of this jacket. I am very pleased with it, but would like some input. Please disregard the bit of chesthair, the picture was taken after my tie came off.

    [​IMG]

    Also, please do not quote the picture, I would like the chance to take it down if I decide to. Thanks.
     
  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Love it [​IMG]
     
  3. darkoak

    darkoak Senior member

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    Looks great. What is it? Borrelli?
     
  4. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    The only nit to pick is that your left shoulder is a bit narrower than the right, so there is a bit of overhang that some tastes might not prefer. But lovely.
     
  5. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    Looks good - I assume the crease on the left shoulder is not permanent, yes?

    I like the shirt, too. Very Neopolitan.
     
  6. johnnynorman

    johnnynorman Well-Known Member

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    Eh. I don't hate it or love it. Could you get the shoulders narrowed ever so slightly? I think that would give it less of a rounded shape. I like the lightness of it, though.
     
  7. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

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    FWIW, a few of my suits have that rounding/uneveness. Its a curse. Looks good otherwise.
     
  8. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very nice shoulder Matt, soft, yet still structured. Love the herringbone too.
     
  9. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

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    Beautiful coat - is it a Borrelli?
     
  10. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    I love the padding but agree that the left looks wider than the right.
     
  11. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I love the padding but agree that the left looks wider than the right.


    ZJ-

    It is actually a low right shoulder that you are seeing. If you look at atailors explanation on the AAAC site about how to cut a low shoulder, it matches almost exactly. The other option is to raise the right shoulder with padding, but padding is not my thing. I think that I am also standing at a slight angle to the camera.

    As far as the roundness of the shoulder, that is really the look that it is supposed to have. Like Whoopee said, it is not to all tastes.

    Thanks for all of the comments.
     
  12. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Now that you mention it, you are right. My right shoulder is also lower.
     
  13. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Now that you mention it, you are right. My right shoulder is also lower.
    Mine is about 1.5 cm lower than my left. For awhile I had jackets made with an extra pad, but 1.5cm is a lot of pad. I prefer to just go with what I was given in that regard. I think in the long run it is less conspicuous to have asymmetrical shoulders than to have a shape that is far from your own. The jacket is cut so that the right side compensates in that it does not collapse or come unbalanced, but it is not raised.
     
  14. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Kiton I assume?[​IMG] Your fav?

    I'm more curious of the shirt. Is that not a spread collar?
    I always wonder about whether opened spread collars are best under a sportcoat? Versus say a straight pinpoint etc. or other type? Your thoughts?

    I do like the way the collar works here.

    My only debate, and I know this is always a somewhat heated topic, but I always wonder about showing chest hair versus a crew t-shirt. I would like to do a comparison before everyone just shots NO!

    I like the shoulders.
     
  15. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Kiton I assume?[​IMG] Your fav?

    I'm more curious of the shirt. Is that not a spread collar?
    I always wonder about whether opened spread collars are best under a sportcoat? Versus say a straight pinpoint etc. or other type? Your thoughts?

    I do like the way the collar works here.


    Thanks. I personally like opened spread collars under a sportcoat, but I was wearing a tie that day. I had taken my tie off. I like the fact that they fill up the collar of the jacket nicely. I also like high collars open as they have a sort of old Hollywood look to them. I don't even mind when the collars go outside the jacket, especially when the shirt is linen :ducks:

    I don't like t-shirts, and don't have a personal problem with chest hair. I think that it comes down to how you feel comfortable. Chest hair either is or is not a part of your body, and I don't see anything vulgar about it. Others may differ. I also think that a t-shirt can look good under an open collar. I think that comfort both physical and mental rule the day when it comes to issues like this.

    I am glad you like the shoulders[​IMG]
     

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