please critique proposed specs for first mtm (SLIM Chan tux and shirt)

[evpj2L]

After endless frustration over OTR offerings, I have decided to bite the bullet and purchase a Chan Tuxedo, vest, and tuxedo shirt for my upcoming wedding. I am very skinny, so I would like the tuxedo to be very slim yet classically styled. My research on the forum has resulted in the below proposed specs that I plan on expressing to Patrick. This will be my first MTM undertaking, so please let me know if anything I'm considering sounds weird/inconsistent/etc. with a classic tux or slimness. Also, please let me know if there is anything else you think I should specify. I greatly appreciate any insight the forum can offer.

TUXEDO JACKET:
*Black
*Single-breasted
*Peak lapels with grosgrain facings
*1 button
*no vents
*regular welted chest pocket with jetted lower pockets with no flaps
*grosgrain covered buttons
*4 working-sleeve buttons on cuff
*Working buttonhole on left lapel for boutonneire
*Soft and very slim overall
*lapels on the thin side
*high gorge
*minimal roping
*minimal shoulder padding
*high/tight armholes
*thin sleeves
*open quarters

TUXEDO TROUSERS:
*flat front
*no cuffs
*single grosgrain stripe down each side
*no belt loops, just buttons for braces on inside of waistband
*button on inside waistband to attach to tab at bottom of tuxedo shirt

TUXEDO VEST:

*Low cut
*single-breasted
*Three button
*Same fabric as the jacket/trousers
*Dressed with lapels
*backless
*Tab that buttons to the trousers in order to keep waistcoat from riding up and exposing waistband

TUXEDO SHIRT:

*Pique bib front
*Medium spread turndown collar
*Regular stud front (three on the chest)
*French cuff
*Removable collar stays
*Tab that attaches to a button on the inside of the trouser waistband
*plain back/no pleats
*no pocket
*gauntlet button
*plain front (no placket front)

 

[Eccentric]

Were I the one ordering, I would pleat and cuff the trousers, but that is just a matter of taste.

 

[bigbjorn]

No, absolutely no cuffs on dinner trousers.

I would not get working button holes on my first Chan, in case the sleeves need adjustment.

 

[JLibourel]

Sounds like you have researched the matter well and your specifications are well thought out.

Some of the things you specify like working sleeve buttons and the buttonhole in the lapel are standard on any Chan garment.

As far as things like shoulder padding, gorge, roping, etc., you can let your wishes be known, but by all means consult with Patrick. He has a good eye for such things and may know what is best for you and your physique better than yourself. (No offense meant--he's just very good at such things.) Chan doesn't put much padding on their jackets anyway. After becoming habituated to my Chan jackets, when I wear my remaining ready-to-wear jackets, I sort of feel as if I am wearing football shoulder pads!

A pity in a way that your first order from Chan should be something as expensive and important as a three-piece wedding tuxedo. Your first garment from Chan should be quite satisfactory, but not quite as nice as after Patrick has had a chance to tweak your pattern a time or two. At least, that was my experience. I am not singling Chan out for criticism here. This seems to be standard with most bespoke tailors from what I've heard.

I just ordered my 13th jacket from Chan (in addition to one suit and five shirts), so you can surmise what I think of them.

 

[evpj2L]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

A pity in a way that your first order from Chan should be something as expensive and important as a three-piece wedding tuxedo. Your first garment from Chan should be quite satisfactory, but not quite as nice as after Patrick has had a chance to tweak your pattern a time or two. At least, that was my experience. I am not singling Chan out for criticism here. This seems to be standard with most bespoke tailors from what I've heard.

I'm actually getting married in late July. Chan will be in my city on the order tour in early November, and then again in early March. I was thinking this would allow me to do an initial fitting in early November, a basted fitting on the early March tour stop, and still receive everything in time for the wedding? Do you think that would work out alright? And that a basted fitting makes sense in terms of addressing the fact that this is my first Chan garment (so I could hopefully work some of the first-garment kinks out at that time)?

 

[JLibourel]

The basted fitting should improve matters of fit appreciably. You should be fine.

 

[Sator]

I have written this elsewhere but I think it is a waste of time asking for a "high armhole". The size of the arm scye is a matter of fit. So it is like saying "make me a well fitting coat". The answer will come back "of course, Sir". Who knows how it will be interpreted.

What you can do is consider specifying an arm scye depth:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...?p=36236#36236

You should use the back scye measurement.

 

[Toiletduck]

I prefer the "U" waistcoat, and definitely standard if not fatter than usual lapels. I like the point of interaction where the lapel meet pocketsquare meet chest pocket.

You don't find that same interaction on a skinny lapel where there is a space between lapel & chest pocket