Please critique my tweed jacket

[Maccimus]

Originally Posted by dah328

Interesting that you should mention that. I recently wore a HK custom jacket to a fitting for a different tailor and he pointed out some problems with the fit of the jacket shoulder that I had also noticed. He suggested that they were due a deficiency in the construction of the jacket. In the maker's attempt to make a lightly padded shoulder, he left the shoulder without sufficient structure to lie flat across my shoulder line. His explanation made sense to me although I'm no expert on jacket construction.

I later visited the maker of the jacket and pointed out the same problem with the shoulder. He explained that it was due to an increase in the size of my deltoid and tricep (normally not a bad thing) and demonstrated the effect on the shoulder by compressing those areas and showing that the shoulder line was fine. His explanation seemed to make sense to me, too, although it was a little disconcerting that such a small change in shoulder size should have such a dramatic effect on the jacket's shoulder. Both of these guys have been making suits for a long time, so it seems that absent an expert knowledge of suit construction, you are at the mercy of your tailor's expertise on the finer points of fit.

Thanks for sharing your experience. The situation in Shanghai maybe even worse. Except some well-kown names, most of the tailors (I can say 95%) can not be trusted. Before I placed this order in Humsuit, I visited numbers of well-decorated (some are heavily advertised) tailor shops. Most of them called their half-canvassed jackets "fully-canvassed". I guess they know the difference. They simply dont believe an average custom can figure out they are cheating. Customers are totally uneducated in this area and tailors are taking the advantage.

 

[Maccimus]

Originally Posted by Svenn

Having a tailor tell you it's not his fault and everything is 'fine' is indeed disconcerting. I too recently got measured for a custom suit by a HK tailor, of equal or greater repute to WW Chan, and was appalled when this individual said the armholes on an MTM I was showing him for comparison were 'high enough already' and the armhole on my custom suit would look similar. I just didn't know how to respond, I've seen dozens of pics of savile row armsyces that go all the way into the natural armpit... I guess I should have brought pictures. Anyway, I know what you mean when you describe that dismissive attitude. The Western tailors on these forums always tell us we shouldn't have to teach or instruct our tailors... I guess they don't realize how much less the tailoring knowledge is in Asia.
I was refused several times as well. Two possibilities: 1, they are actually doing MTM rather than bespoking; 2, they are incapable of doing this, which is also a bad sign.

 

[Maccimus]

Originally Posted by Dr Huh?

Not to take away from the OP, but this looks really good. Love the colour, and the lapels:

The blazer looks brilliant and expensive.

 

[emptym]

Originally Posted by Svenn

lol I assume that's tongue in cheek since if I remember correctly you're a regular Savile Row patron. Well after my above experience, I now understand the disregard you guys show for the HK tailors, I used to think you were all too picky, but not being able to construct a tight armscye is a fairly egregious fault... though I'll hold off on my defamation of this individual until the fittings are done in a couple weeks, who knows maybe there will be a miracle and it'll all turn out fine

I'm not sure that one experience with one tailor would qualify anyone to judge the whole lot. Chan certainly is willing and able to make high arm holes.

Originally Posted by RSS

I have used HK tailors. I'll send you a PM.
Could you copy me? I'd be interested in your thoughts.

Originally Posted by Maccimus

Thanks for sharing your experience. The situation in Shanghai maybe even worse. Except some well-kown names, most of the tailors (I can say 95%) can not be trusted. Before I placed this order in Humsuit, I visited numbers of well-decorated (some are heavily advertised) tailor shops. Most of them called their half-canvassed jackets "fully-canvassed". I guess they know the difference. They simply dont believe an average custom can figure out they are cheating. Customers are totally uneducated in this area and tailors are taking the advantage.

Have you checked out W. Sanford? He's the brother of a friend (for full disclosure), and a good guy. I don't know anything about his shop beyond his website, which seems impressive imo. It at least shows a fluency in the terms we throw around here. He's also substantially cheaper than Chan in Shanghai.

 

[Maccimus]

Originally Posted by emptym

Have you checked out W. Sanford? He's the brother of a friend (for full disclosure), and a good guy. I don't know anything about his shop beyond his website, which seems impressive imo. It at least shows a fluency in the terms we throw around here. He's also substantially cheaper than Chan in Shanghai.

I saw his advertisement here. I may have a try in the future. The shop locates on a lovely street.

 

[ruben]

Originally Posted by Svenn

How does one correct, as you say, merely postural lordosis? I notice my tendency when I'm not thinking about it is to stick my stomach out and create an unnecessary amount of curve in my lower back, which turns painful later on. Do I tighten my abs more when I'm standing, or clench my glueteal muscles slightly? I've noticed most indigenous people around the world seem to have an extra amount of curve in the lower back, maybe it's compensation for pain or tightness elsewhere in the body?

Originally Posted by Professor Chaos

I'm the posture police. You're under arrest.

Correct the hyperlordosis, excessive internal rotation of the humerous, and the excessive forward lean, and this sc will look much better on you.


Ho do you correct something like this?