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Please critique my new SC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Threadbearer, May 8, 2012.

  1. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    This is the second MTM jacket I've purchased from Anthony Paranzino, and I believe the fit is really quite good. However, there's always room for improvement and so I'd like to gather some educated opinions before placing my next order.

    Please comment on anything that grabs your attention, but I'm particularly interested in the following features:

    Overall length
    Button stance
    Lapel width
    Waist taper
    Width of open fronts (quarters)

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    TB - To me this represents a definite improvement over the other longer jackets I've seen you in. I think I'd move the button stance down just a tad and widen the lapels a bit.

    Sleeves could maybe be cleaned up a bit? I'm not a tailor so will leave more specific recommendations to wiser heads, but I think the rippling could be avoided.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2012


  3. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    yea looks like sleeve pitch is off..the back is a little messy as well. However pretty decent though!
     


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Looks good, TB.

    To be nitpicky (which I think is the aim of this thread, no?), in addition to the comment above about the sleeve pitch, I think the front/back balance (if that's the right term) is a little off, or the back is catching on your rump. The latter might explain the messiness of the back, too.
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Fit issues:
    1. Sleeve pitch may be off, depending on how your arms normally hang.
    2. Too tight around your waist.
    3. Back needs to be cleaned up--or at least, the jacket needs a good pressing. Vertical ripples or draping in the back, particularly at the arms, is normal. Curved ripples going in all directions are not.
    4. The collar is a bit loose or you are not setting the jacket on your shoulders right. Obvious when you zoom in and see the gap.
    5. Short back balance. This is not necessarily a problem, but it is a style quirk (my Neapolitan jackets all have short back balances). Worth noting for your own edification.

    Style issues:
    1. Hip pockets are way too high, and probably too small.
    2. Ditto for the chest pocket: too high, too small.
    3. Lapels are too skinny; gorge is too high. But the forum does prefer them that way.
    4. Cloth doesn't look so appropriate for an odd jacket. Is that herringbone? It is particularly awkward paired with patch pockets.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2012


  6. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    His costume jewelry and belts are pretty. Really suits him.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2012


  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Say what you will about :foo: , he has an eye for detail.
     


  8. Poloboy

    Poloboy Well-Known Member

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    Overall, this not a good fit.
    Sleeve pitch need correction.
    Sleeve length is too long.
    Jacket length is to short.
    Too much waist suppression, looks bad.
    View from back is horrible.
    FIND SOMEONE ELSE TO BUY MTM FROM.
     


  9. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    I had a similar rippling on the back of my MTM jacket. At the final fitting, the tailor took it in and adjusted the shoulder padding. I get a much cleaner fall over the back now. It's an easy fix.

    It does look like it's pulling a little around the middle.
     


  10. Congo123

    Congo123 Member

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    By adjusted padding do you mean behind the shoulder? If so they got the shoulder measurement wrong.
     


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Looks good to me.
     


  12. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    overall looks very good to me... of course, to nitpick - some points I noticed:

    length from the front looks good but maybe a little short from the back (covering butt?)
    is it me or are the patch pockets a little high up?
    lapels could be a tad wider, and i do agree hte gorge is high will will probably date this with time (but I happen to like it, for now).
    could be a bit trimmer around the upper bicep area


    Foo knows his stuff, +1.
     


  13. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    Yes. Absolutely.



    I think you're right, sb. The jacket is only partially lined, and so the fabric in back is probably catching on my jeans and causing the jacket to bunch up around my lower back.



    Is that the same as saying "button stance is too high," or does it mean something else? I'm unschooled on tailoring terminology.



    Thank you for noticing. I've put a lot of effort into my collection.



    As a matter of fact, that's exactly what I say about Foo.
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe it shouldn't?


    Then you would see more horizontal rippling.


    The gorge refers to the seam between the lapel and the collar. In notched lapels, a high gorge means the notches are high.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012


  15. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    A lot of the comments here really are personal preferences. One man's high gorge is another man's perfect gorge. One man's too must waist suppression is another man's trim silhouette. And I feel like the top button could be below your crotch and someone will still say to lower it.

    Personally, I like to see conversation, and commenting in black and white isn't conducive to that goal. Especially when we don't know what aesthetic you are trying to achieve. Do you lean toward modern and/or trendy, or more traditional? Do you love Richard Gere's style in American Gigolo or Ryan Gosling in Crazy Stupid Love? Do you hang out with power brokers in RLBL, or accountants in JAB? Do you live in Paris, France or Paris, KY? I try to be a realist and compare things relative to something else. Saying that the gorge looks a little trendier than traditional is more helpful for conversation than "that gorge is too high." So I'll throw out one more opinion, from what I would consider a realist perspective... to anyone who doesn't follow fashion as closely as most SFers, this jacket looks damn good. Sure there are probably some cleanup items if you go with the pickier details, like the shoulder pitch. Then again, you'll be moving what 98% of the time you're wearing this thing, so it might be tough for anyone to see if something is weird with or not. And does it just need to be steamed or is there really some odd extra fabric floating around the back?

    (I truly don't mean to come off as a d$ck to anyone who posted before me. It just cracks me up at some of the nits that people come up with. Then again, you asked for opinions and got a bunch of them. If you had your own doubts about the coat and were looking for ammunition to take it back, or if you're just interested in some tweaks for the next version, I suppose you got plenty of both.)

    Cheers.
     


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