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Please critique my new navy blazer from WW Chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johanm, Sep 20, 2011.

  1. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Just received a navy blazer from WW Chan and would love to hear thoughts on how to improve my pattern for the next order.

    Deets: 13 oz Harrisons navy cloth, 2 buttons, patch pockets, light brown buttons, no shoulder padding.

    FYI, for RTW stuff, I'm a 44R/L with a 37-38" waist. I have long monkey arms which makes the jacket seem short, but it does cover my ass.

    I used a ghetto iphone app to increase the brightness on the pics so that the drape etc. would be more visible. Unfortunately the color got distorted - the jacket is actually a deep medium blue navy. Also, there are a few vertical creases on the jacket since I took it right out of the Fedex box.


    [​IMG]

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  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Fits beautifully.
    I'd make the next one a tad longer
    because I think it would make the waist
    look more "nipped"
     
  3. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Senior member

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    as far as i can see it looks pretty perfect..
     
  4. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Usual decent Chan garment. Well done
     
  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    If this is a first effort it looks pretty damn good. Did you do a fitting or straight to the finished product? I agree that I'd still make the jacket longer. Around 1/2 inch or possibly 3/4 should do it. The back of the collar could perhaps sit a little bit higher. I've been preferring a bit more of a drape cut and extended shoulders so you could ask Patrick for a little more of that. That plus nipping the waist a slight touch more could make for a more unique silhouette. Good luck and have fun!
     
  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    fits very well.
    1/2" longer is a good idea

    I am not a fan of the no padding look for a more formal style blazer
     
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I'm fine with it if the fabric is a bit more informal...the real answer is that one should have both! :^)
     
  8. Bowtiedlad93

    Bowtiedlad93 Senior member

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    The jacket is a bit short, your finger tips should come cloe to the ends of it. otherwise it is a fine coat and seems to fit well everywhere else.
     
  9. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments guys

    Slewfoot - this is my 3rd iteration with Chan. They had the basic fit down with the first one but I've been tweaking the buttoning point, shoulder padding, and length with each subsequent order. I haven't had any fittings for any of my commissions.

    I definitely agree about adding a bit of shoulder extension to increase the drape. The jacket doesn't feel tight around the shoulders, but I think a little extension would promote a "V" shape from front and back. As it is, I can't really add any waist suppression without the jacket starting to pull (I think it does a decent job of camoflaging my love handles, at least from the front).

    On length, you guys have to trust me, it's definitely long enough. I just have very long arms. It fully covers my ass, as you can see from the side and back pics. Any longer and it would make me look like I have short legs. Also, it would make the jacket look a bit too conservative to wear with jeans etc.

    Shirtmaven - this is a heavy basketweave cloth and the jacket is meant to be casual. I have another blazer with gold buttons, shoulder padding, etc.

    In terms of comfort, I would encourage other Chan customers to try the no padding option. The jacket feels significantly more light, flexible, and comfortable than even my Chan jackets with "light padding".
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2011
  10. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    looks great. Could use some 'flair' as a sportscoat (pathc pocket, contrast buttons, etc) but the fit's very good.
     
  11. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    I love the front. The back looks... funny... to me, but I'm relatively untrained.

    Why don't you throw this up on the tailors thread (without saying who it is from) and
    see what they think? It's what that thread is for.

    Sometimes I'd rather learn from the good side rather than from the bad.
     
  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    + 1 million

    Glad Chan's been working out for you!
     
  13. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Why can't other bespoke shops get it this close on the first try?
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2011
  14. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    plus one. it's hard to see the small details(patch pkts) in the flicks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2011
  15. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    I think the key is to be assertive with them about what you want. Patrick Chu really understands how to execute a variety of different styles and silhouettes (probably influenced by the guys at the Armoury), but he defaults to a very conservative business type of look - longer jacket, moderate shoulder padding, high buttoning point, closed quarters, etc. He also seems worried that customers will ask for stuff without knowing what they're getting into, probably based on some bad experiences with dissatisfied customers. It's worthwhile to be persistent in what you want and convey that you know what you're talking about. For example, he was pretty reluctant to do a padless shoulder but relented when I told him about various SF posters who requested the same thing. Needless to say, I'm pretty delighted with the results and I plan on asking for padless shoulders on all my future commissions.

    With regard to the "odd jacket details" - I think some of the details got blurred with my poor iphone brightness adjustment. The jacket has patch pockets as well as mottled light brown horn buttons.
     
  16. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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  17. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    +1, but I agree that


    However, in terms of jacket length, this is only one of the ways to set it:


    The other way is to ensure that it covers your behind, which this coat does well.

    To the OP: there is a thread for this here where you are likely to get more helpful insights/comments.
     
  18. TuckDoc

    TuckDoc New Member

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    Back looks too square. Need wider shoulders. Boring 'salesman' look. Overall look is dull; needs to be sharper; perhaps brass buttons. Perhaps a subtly textured or patterned fabric. and maybe a colorful Bemberg lining. (I am a plastic surgeon with same measurements as you).
     
  19. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    ^ you just bumped a thread from 3 years ago.
     
    1 person likes this.

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