Please critique my new custom jacket

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Threadbearer, Sep 20, 2011.

  1. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    I am thrilled with this new sport coat and am ready to go back to the maker for more. Before that, though, I'd like to know if there are any tweaks you'd recommend for the next one. For instance, does anyone think I could go a little shorter in length?

    Here are the robo-pics. Those lumps across my upper back the second shot are from a pair of suspenders.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Follow this link for better pics of the fabric and for the maker's contact info: http://www.styleforum.net/t/234255/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iii/12540#post_4829081
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2011


  2. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Excellent! I'd have it shorter with more open quarters.
     


  3. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Senior member

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    TB - overall i'd say a solid 6.5/10 ... maybe 7. the first is usually the most difficult. hopefully the tweaks going forward will make consequent ones 9s and 10s. it does already fit you better than some of your other coats. it has the it factor, which some of your others lack.

    things i'd change in order of importance, IMO:

    • something with the balance is closing the quarters ... the front being cut a little better and the lower buttoning point might fix that
    • slight tweak to the armholes/shoulders to fix the sleeve pitch
    • clean up the back a little, especially the left side (from the back). he may not be fully compensating for your drop shoulder
    • lapels a bit wider, pockets a bit deeper, buttoning point a touch lower
    • pockets a bit deeper

    awesome start TB!! nice fabric. would look great as a fall suit too.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2011


  4. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Nii seems to have covered most of the points. I'll add that it looks like it might be a bit small in the chest. Do you have something in the right inside pocket?
     


  5. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    You are right about the balance, I see it too now. TB, I've had a much worse case of this. Look through this really quickly, you'll get a better idea of what's going on:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/245705/my-first-and-probably-last-mtm-suit-help-with-alterations/0_20
     


  6. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    There is a thread for this here where you are more likely to get very helpful insights/comments.
     


  7. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    +1 to Nii's and Sanguis's comments. Those were all the same things I noticed
     


  8. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Agreed... slightly more open quarters and slightly shorter. Still, very nice fit... and great pics!
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2011


  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    I like the length.
    To me it's more classic.
     


  10. Doxe

    Doxe Senior member

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    Length looks good.

    I think the robot pose is throwing off the sleeve pitch and the balance - you're standing too erect and your arms are pulled back.

    One trick my tailor uses is to ask me to walk around the shop and then come back to stand naturally. That way I'm not "at attention".

    Trying something similar might provide more accurate pics. Standing even a bit more erect than normal can cause the quarters to close in front, and for the sleeves to bunch.

    I think you're right to be happy. Things will only get better the more you have made.
     


  11. Torrente

    Torrente Well-Known Member

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    It looks a little ''sad'' to me from the front. . . the back has panache that the front is lacking . . . and most of it could be from the ''balance'' issue . . . backside lenght looks great to me, while the front looks a bit longish :confused:

    (disclaimer: I have no idea what Im talking about. Ignore this post)
     


  12. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    Just a massive pec. :nodding: Or maybe it's the slider on my suspenders. :embar:



    Good idea, Lonneker Thanks for pointing that out. I should probably shut down this thread and move the pics over there.

    I'm very grateful to everyone who commented here, especially to nii. I've printed out all the observations above and will take them along next time I meet with Tony.
     


  13. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Lovely jacket- but have to dissent on the length. overall look is a bit loose to me
     


  14. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    It is about 1/2" too long and the quarters would benefit by being more open. It would then appear to have balance.
     


  15. Bowtiedlad93

    Bowtiedlad93 Senior member

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    It is a nice jacket but it dose seem a bit big on you.
     


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