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Please critique my first suit, Fitzgerald 39R

sweatlodge

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This is my first post, and also my first real suit. Bought a Fitzgerald from Brooks Brothers during their 50% off sale. Tried on a 38R at the store but it was a little small in the shoulders according to the salesperson. Went with a 39R. Now that I have it, it feels a little big overall.

They didn't have my size and style in stock, but they were able to order it for me. It was delivered to my place and here are the pictures.

A couple of notes: The sleeve buttons came separately. I obviously need to get those sewn in. Also, the pants are real long--guess this is by design as it is easier to remove a few inches than add a few inches?

I plan on getting this tailored, but as I've never had anything tailored. I would love some input on what to ask for.

I plan on wearing the suit with the shirt and tie as well, input on those are welcome too. I'm wearing this to a work conference, but also to weddings and such in the future.

I'll post 'after' pictures.




 

SpallaCamiccia

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Reduce the waist and adjust the cuffs of the trousers for a better looking.
 

jhcam8

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Originally Posted by sweatlodge
This is my first post, and also my first real suit. Bought a Fitzgerald from Brooks Brothers during their 50% off sale. Tried on a 38R at the store but it was a little small in the shoulders according to the salesperson. Went with a 39R. Now that I have it, it feels a little big overall.

They didn't have my size and style in stock, but they were able to order it for me. It was delivered to my place and here are the pictures.

A couple of notes: The sleeve buttons came separately. I obviously need to get those sewn in. Also, the pants are real long--guess this is by design as it is easier to remove a few inches than add a few inches?

I plan on getting this tailored, but as I've never had anything tailored. I would love some input on what to ask for.

I plan on wearing the suit with the shirt and tie as well, input on those are welcome too. I'm wearing this to a work conference, but also to weddings and such in the future.

I'll post 'after' pictures.


It's not a bad fit - are you sure the 38 was too tight?
Get some tailor references and put yourself in his/her hands and you'll be fine - the store should be able to help you.
You need to do some research on pant length, cuffs and so on for your personal taste.
For this first suit you might try what the tailor suggests.
Good luck - nice looking suit!
 

acecow

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I think a 38 might have worked, although it's hard to tell. The fit in the shoulders seems fine; anyway, it's very difficult to see if they are too big or not.

If I were you, I wouldn't rush to the tailor. Instead, go back to the store and try a 38 again. The padding in the shoulders should end where your shoulders end. If you lean against a wall in the store, your shoulders should touch the wall before your suit's shoulders do.

Also, judging from the pictures (yes, I took another look), the suit collar rides too high, which could be an indication that a 38 would fit you better.

P.S. If you live in L.A. I can recommend a very good tailor.
 

phoenixrecon

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Originally Posted by sweatlodge
Also, the pants are real long--guess this is by design as it is easier to remove a few inches than add a few inches?

LULS
 

sweatlodge

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I appreciate all the feedback.

A little more explanation as to why I went with the 39: when I tried on the 38, the fabric draping from my shoulder did not run down the sleeve in an unbroken line. You could sort of see my shoulder poking out the side (I attached a photo to illustrate the effect...the photo is of me in the 39, however the line is meant to illustrate where the protrusion was occurring with the 38).

I didn't notice this until the salesperson pointed it out to me. As I've heard it's important to get the fit right in the shoulders, I went with the 39. It's too late for me to swap it for a 38 but it would be good to know if that was the right move for future reference.

Also, I was wondering if the jacket collar needs to be adjusted. I attached a photo taken from a better angle...it shows that quite a bit of shirt collar is showing. The saleperson told me this is because the lapels on the Fitzgerald are skinny, so there's not as much material in the collar...this sounds bogus, is it?

I live in DC and I've heard good things about London Tailor so I'll probably go there.

 

jhcam8

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Originally Posted by sweatlodge
Also, I was wondering if the jacket collar needs to be adjusted. I attached a photo taken from a better angle...it shows that quite a bit of shirt collar is showing. The saleperson told me this is because the lapels on the Fitzgerald are skinny, so there's not as much material in the collar...this sounds bogus, is it?

I live in DC and I've heard good things about London Tailor so I'll probably go there.


Any good tailor will be able to tell you if the collar needs adjustment and be able to execute it.

BTW, I have the same shoulder issue - my right shoulder bulges out more than the left. Depending on the overall fit of the coat, I'll usually go for the smaller size and live w/a little bulge rather than have the coat look a little big, even after tailoring. You have a trim build, so I'm guessing that the smaller size will work the best, generally.
 

acecow

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You need to do what I did with one of my jackets. It's a somewhat complex alteration. Your tailor needs to take the collar off, take the jacket in a little in the middle where the stitching goes vertically, cut the collar to adjust for that and sew it back on. That would fix all the issues with the shoulders and the collar.

And, of course, don't forget about waist suppression etc.

It will run you another $200. Don't go cheap, it's an alteration that needs to be done right. Find a good tailor first.

Originally Posted by sweatlodge
I appreciate all the feedback.

A little more explanation as to why I went with the 39: when I tried on the 38, the fabric draping from my shoulder did not run down the sleeve in an unbroken line. You could sort of see my shoulder poking out the side (I attached a photo to illustrate the effect...the photo is of me in the 39, however the line is meant to illustrate where the protrusion was occurring with the 38).

I didn't notice this until the salesperson pointed it out to me. As I've heard it's important to get the fit right in the shoulders, I went with the 39. It's too late for me to swap it for a 38 but it would be good to know if that was the right move for future reference.

Also, I was wondering if the jacket collar needs to be adjusted. I attached a photo taken from a better angle...it shows that quite a bit of shirt collar is showing. The saleperson told me this is because the lapels on the Fitzgerald are skinny, so there's not as much material in the collar...this sounds bogus, is it?

I live in DC and I've heard good things about London Tailor so I'll probably go there.
 

acecow

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I mostly go to the tailor at Alandales.

http://www.alandales.com/tailor.php

He does a splendid job on everything and gets it done right the first time. He listens well and always explains what he will do with the clothing. It's a pleasure to work with him. He's on the more expensive side and usually takes a few weeks to complete the order. I tried several other alternatives, but after sour experiences I will not go anywhere but to him. Since I'm a repeat customer, he started charging me a little less now.

You can tell him that Andrey sent you or just come and talk to him.

I believe that Charles in Beverly Hills is highly regarded as an excellent tailor and also does bespoke work. I went to his shop once, but we didn't click. I saw him fit a customer though and the pants looked great, albeit on the wider side.
 

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