Please critique my first custom shirt (Modern Tailor)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mayan50, Dec 8, 2013.

  1. mayan50

    mayan50 Member

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    I have received my first Modern Tailor custom shirt. I modeled it after an off the rack shirt that first fairly well. Can I get a few opinions as to where I should further tinker? These pics are taken after 2 washings. Please excuse the mirrors that are somewhat in the way. Also, this shirt is all cotton, but is of a horrid pattern which I didn't see when ordering (my fault). Just didn't want you guys to think I like the diamonds. :D

    Thanks in advance.

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    Last edited: Dec 8, 2013


  2. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I am not familiar with the scope of ordering from MT, but the shoulder point are way to low on your arm, and if possible should be moved up. Also the armscy could be smaller. Like it is now it looks like a normal poorly fitting RTW. shirt sorry, the abdomen area may be the right size for you but the upper body is just oversized.
     


  3. mayan50

    mayan50 Member

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    Thanks much. So I would have to decrease the neck to shoulder length and then increase the sleeve length to accommodate? How much would you say? And the other suggestion is to close the arm hole a bit? How does it look across the chest? Thanks.
     


  4. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I have tried to draw on your picture with a crappy iphone app to better explain myself. In the first I made an arrow to point the place on your shoulder where the sleeve /armscye seam should be placed. Get someone to measure the distance from that point to the current one and that measure should be cut back from the yoke and upper part of the armscye and added to the sleeve length.

    The armscye could be cut higher by about 2cm without affecting the chest at all. Picture two is trying to demonstrate what I mean (purple original-red alteration.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2013


  5. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    The shirts look fine but I like the arm gestures. Air Traffic Controller?
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2013


  6. Carli

    Carli Active Member

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    It is not only the shoulder but your chest/ waist area is also larger and blowy. May be an inch or 1.5" larger than your fit.
     


  7. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    reduce the yoke 1-2" i cant see where the seam lands.
    reduce the chest 2" this will automatically raise the armhole
    sleeves look long send a photo with the sleeves unbuttoned and hanging straight.
    the cuffs are either very stiff or too tight.

    good luck with round 2
    i bet the fabric will feel the exact same on your computer screen!
     


  8. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Shirtmaven,

    My suggestion was to shift the whole armhole back (4-5 cm perhaps), and I find it is easy to reference to the yoke and then everything else shift with it.

    However, as the OP suggest that this shirt was a copy of an RTW shirts he thought fitted well, in my experience, RTW armholes are still at least 2cm to low even when the shoulder point fell properly, so by reducing the yoke/chest as a result of bringing in the armhole, in my experience will not results in a smaller armhole, especially if the manufacturer still reference to the RTW model armhole first sent.

    Regards,

    Marco
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2013


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