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Please critique my first bespoke suit (from WW Chan)!

johanm

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Just got my first bespoke suit, and would love some expert advice. Here are some intro comments:

- sorry for the wrinkles, the suit had been packed and hasn't been ironed yet. also sorry for the sockless rubber shoes; I was looking for something quick to slip on.

- I'm pretty happy with the silhouette and overall look. I'm finding the suit quite slimming compared to my off the peg stuff. I have a decent size belly/love handles, and I feel like the suit camouflages some of that, despite being pretty close fitting. I actually put on weight since I was fitted so any belly-area tightness isn't the tailor's fault.

- Stuff that I want to change for the next commission include: lowering the buttoning point by at least an inch, extending the shoulders slightly, adding a little roominess to the arms, and adding fabric to the back, which is a little tight at the moment.

Looking forward to your opinions!









 

dbc

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Trousers a bit too long.

And like you mentioned, the buttoning point.
 

Rada

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on that back view it looks like there is too much room in the shoulders, I'd probably adjust the break in the pants so it can flow nicer (they also seem a bit large too) and it looks like the button point could have been lowered and the waist taken in just a bit

That being said I don't think it's that bad at all... I like the color and that tie is just plain awesome
 

johanm

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thanks guys. The pant and the jacket waist are interesting. When I first put on the jacket it seemed very close fitting, possibly too tight. I could only fit a couple fingers between the button and my gut, whereas I can do a fist or more with my off the peg stuff. Similarly the pants felt much slimmer around the thighs than what I'm used to. However, neither seems to be restrictive, pulling, etc.

I'll consider shortening the pants. I'm still getting adjusted to the modern no-break style.

The back/shoulder line seem off to me, but I still can't put my finger on why.

*I edited the thread title (on advice from the friend who referred me to styleforum) to indicate that I ordered this suit from WW Chan on their US tour.
 

Pantisocrat

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The tailor underestimated your torso length, which explains why the first button for a 2B suit is so high up and why the hourglass narrowing is also slightly higher up. This is evident when you view the suit from the back. Consequently, the bottom half of the suit will be out of proportion since it'll be narrower near the naval area on down, where the skirt out drop of the jacket helps to accommodate movement. The shoulders could be a bit wider and it's possible that your left hand is slightly longer than your right (exposed shirt cuff), which is a common physiological asymmetry that should be noted by good tailors. The trouser lengths are fine as they allow more room to cover the socks while sitting and it's a matter of personal preference. Since you're a tall guy, that little kink in the trousers would naturally direct the ladies' eyes to your feet. It's one reason why I always wear shoe colors in sharp contrast with that of my trousers.
 

teddieriley

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Pics are too dark. I understand that people in their excitment like to throw on the suit, take photos and solicit comments. For best critique, press the suit, wear proper shoes, and take pics with appropriate lighting. I have no clue how to comment on your back and side shots. The front shots aren't any better either.
 

TheTukker

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
Pics are too dark. I understand that people in their excitment like to throw on the suit, take photos and solicit comments. For best critique, press the suit, wear proper shoes, and take pics with appropriate lighting. I have no clue how to comment on your back and side shots. The front shots aren't any better either.

+2, but

Originally Posted by dbc
Trousers a bit too long.

This is clearly personal preference; I would leave them just the way they are.

I am assuming not, but did you get a basted fitting?
 

johanm

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Teddieriley: sorry for the shitty iphone photos. I will be getting the suit pressed tomorrow and will post photos from a proper camera shortly.

Pantisocrat: thanks for the detailed comments. I think you're right about the torso length proportions. The back view is problematic for a number of reasons and the distorted hour glass is one of the things I'm seeing. The buttoning point issue is partly my fault; I was wearing a RL Polo suit to the fitting and told the fitter that I was happy with its high buttoning point. I now see the error of my ways. Regarding sleeve length, I think that the jacket sleeve was just getting caught. When I put the jacket on now I see an equal amount of shirt cuff showing on both arms.

Lonneker: you're right, no basted fitting. I got fitted in June and just received the suit. I'm going to wear the trousers for a bit and decide whether to shorten them, but there is a fair amount of bunching at the bottom, probably because the trousers slip down below my waist after I walk around (these are held up by a belt, not suspenders).
 

Maccimus

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
Pics are too dark. I understand that people in their excitment like to throw on the suit, take photos and solicit comments. For best critique, press the suit, wear proper shoes, and take pics with appropriate lighting. I have no clue how to comment on your back and side shots. The front shots aren't any better either.
+1
 

iand

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Too high button stance stance has already been mentioned. To my inexpert eye, the jacket looks too short too.
 

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