Please critique my first bespoke/mtm suit and shirt (Navy European cut)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Nguyenning, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2012
    Hi all,

    I picked my custom bespoke/made to measure suit up from the tailor today and am overall pleased with the fit. The only major gripe I have is on my left shoulder, it seems to be too much padding or something's going on where it protrudes just a tad too far not too sure... what should I tell the tailor to fix specifically here? I have broad shoulders and maybe my left one/arm is smaller and lays lower? It feels fine but it looks off... Also, what else can I improve that you all see from the pics? Are the quarters too closed? Not sure what more I can do here with it being double vented...
    Be harsh and critical por favor. It's a navy european cut suit on super 140s italian wool on a floating canvas. Excuse the wrinkled shirt, sleeves may be a little long but I'm not too worried about this, as I'm always wearing a jacket and if I'm not, my sleeves are rolled up. I have some brown shoes and belt coming, so please no jokes there... just wanted to put shoes on to see if I should do anything to the pants in terms of their break. My suit guy will cover any additional tailoring costs, so no worries there, just looking for any and all insight.

    Thanks!!!


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,546
    Likes Received:
    707
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    It looks like you have uneven shoulders (a common problem) and the tailor didn't properly account for it. Is it too late to take it back to fix it? Was it bespoke or mtm?

    Also, your trousers might need to be shortened a little; they're bunching up.
     
  3. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2012
    Not too late to take to the tailor... my suit guy told me any tailoring is on them, so all is good in that department. What do I tell the tailor exactly? Is there a common phrase/is this a common technique? (or did you mean send it back to get remade altogether???)

    The guy came out and took 40 measurements and then they send it overseas to get made... very reputable and respected in my city. So, while not a true bespoke, it was great service for a MTM... let's say a step right in between MTM and bespoke haha

    Yeah, I'm waiting for my brown shoes to come before I hem the pants anymore. They are kind of bunching up though, so may just get all of that done at once.

    Thanks for the insight!
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012
  4. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,546
    Likes Received:
    707
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    Reconstructing the shoulder is a difficult alteration. That being said, I think a pad can be inserted to smooth it out.

    I'd be interested to hear what the tailors on the forum have to say.
     
  5. wintourh007

    wintourh007 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2011
    Location:
    NSW
    Looks a little loose on the shoulders and the jacket length is a bit long.
     
  6. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2012
    dang... I mean I don't really feel that bad if they do have to reconstruct the shoulder. I paid good money for this to be made, and this is a pretty glaring fault IMO. I read online about this alteration... they basically have to re-do the entire arm from scratch... yikes
     
  7. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2012
    Agreed with my left shoulder being loose/big/whatever it's called...
    I don't think the length is too long, if I shortened it anymore, it'd definitely be too short IMO. You can see where my finger tips lie naturally as is... however I do think there is something about it that makes my legs look short... hmmm maybe you're right
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Shoulder width is too wide. Sleeve head needs to be trimmed to fit into armhole. You need more fullness over your shoulder blades to get rid of the bit of cloth that rolls up just below the collar. Hard to see more detail from these pictures. Send better pictures to the maker, if they have a good tailor there he will know how to fix. Too bad this wasn't local where someone could see it on you and maybe refit the shoulder and sleeve basted on before finishing. You look lower on the right shoulder more than the left.
     
  9. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

    Messages:
    981
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2008
    Location:
    Shanghai
    Let out a bit at center back seam, it might look better.
     
  10. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2012
    Yeah, starting to wish it was more local for that purpose, but the tailor is actually very reputable and is local... and my suit guy works exclusively through this tailor, so I feel like I'm in good hands with him. My shoulders are definitely uneven..

    Is this as simple as me going in, wearing it just as I did in these pics and pointing it out to the tailor and him knowing what to do? Or should there be something specific I should ask for? "Narrow the (left) shoulder and trim the sleeve head"?

    What are your thoughts on the length? Do my legs look a bit short to you? I just fear shortening the jacket more would be too short, as it seems to lie nicely with my finger tips and thumb joint

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Can't judge the length from these pictures. Take it to the tailor and have him determine what needs to be done and how much to change the shoulder width. It's his responsibility. This came out well for a first, I assume first, MTM.
     
  12. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2012
    Yes, my first MTM suit (and really only my 2nd suit overall). Thanks for your input, overall I'm happy with the general fit and form.. just a few tweaks I'm probably only aware of after about 3 months of lurking on this forum :)
     
  13. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

    Messages:
    438
    Likes Received:
    67
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2012
    Location:
    Hipster Doofusville
    Your arm/leg proportion is probably larger than most. So, while I understand your concern with the length, I think I have to agree with the statement above about possibly shortening the jacket a bit.You want to elongate your legs. But it does seem there is not so much room given the mark where your hands fall at your sides.
    Maybe if the pants are debunched this will help a bit, too.
    And not to pile on, especially, since others have more specific expert advice, the left shoulder is definitely botched. Less so if they created a huge indentation under the pad on purpose with a tool but I am guessing this was not by design.
     
  14. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2012
    What does debunching pants do?
    Yeah, I'm anxious to see what the tailor will say about shortening the jacket. I just don't think it'll be able to be shortened much without messing up the pockets and proportions with everything else.
    I'm less concerned with shortening the jacket than I am this left shoulder issue. I wouldn't say it's botched... if anything, it's just me having a low/uneven shoulder that's screwing things up :)
    This tailor is very well respected in my city, and I feel competent he'll be able to fix it... and since this isn't on my dime, I'm just going to be as straightforward as possible with him.

    FWIW, I love the side views :)
     
  15. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

    Messages:
    981
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2008
    Location:
    Shanghai
    I don't see any problem with the length. What's wrong with it?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by