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Please, critique my first bespoke jacket

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jgonzalez, Jun 3, 2012.

  1. jgonzalez

    jgonzalez Member

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    Suit is fully-canvassed and fabric is 100’s Taylor & Stewart.

    Trousers are ok and don’t have any doubt about them (so no picture attached) but I am not sure if the jacket is neat and clean enough. I would like to read your opinions on if there are any errors, so obvious, as to warrant a revisit to the tailor.

    Thank you very much.



    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  2. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    There seem to be quite a few issues here. The left shoulder from the back is particularly troubling. The right doesn't look good either. Sleeves are kind of shapeless. Overall, the jacket looks too large. Shoulder width and collar look okay. Oh, and there is red stitching on one of your sleeve buttonholes.
     
  3. Bhowie

    Bhowie Senior member

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  4. Twotone

    Twotone Senior member

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    Not too bad, actually. My only comment is the button stance looks too high and not at your natural waist. In the photo of you facing the camera, it make you look pear-shaped.
     
  5. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    +1
     
  6. lysandar

    lysandar Senior member

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    Could be the angle of your camera, but the jacket looks like a different beast from the back (fitted) and front (pear). Quite a bit of hip flare too, personally not a fan of that. Jacket collar needs to be higher and tighter, its pulling away from your shirt collar. Tbh I see more issues with the right shoulder, in particular the absence of accounting for the drop. But that's my novice view.
     
  7. Pieceofsand

    Pieceofsand Senior member

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    Did you get this from Vietnam?
     
  8. imanewbie

    imanewbie Senior member

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    Pear shape body? If thats the case it looks good the arms looked kinda off, but could be the stance.
     
  9. buzzron

    buzzron Well-Known Member

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    The pear shape is probably due to the camera angle. To me the suit's ok.
     
  10. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    Yes the camera angle is bad, but you still may want a lower button stance. The ripples coming out of the armpit on the back are ok in my opinion, as that drape allows more freedom of movement. What's not ok is the severe ripples in the middle of the arms on the front, that really makes the jacket look sloppy. Not bad overall though.
     
  11. jgonzalez

    jgonzalez Member

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    Thank you for your opinions. Here you have a better camera angle (see new pictures).

    As for your comments, the suit is not from any Asian country; I will let you know the origin. And I am afraid I have a pear body shape but the defect in the body is very slightly and the suit should disguise it.

    Considering the suit is already finished, what specific alterations would you make to the jacket?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These are things that can't be altered but for your next jacket, lower button stance, and no hacking pockets.
     
  13. Bhowie

    Bhowie Senior member

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    Can you tell me what tailor you used so I can stear clear of them?
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2012
  14. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    Button stance way too high for your body type, overall, the flaring of the pockets (angled), wide lapels, wide waist, etc. is absolutely the opposite of what you should do for a pear-shaped body. The arm holes seem too low and huge for me, too.

    That said, I like the color and the fabric seems interesting.

    Sleeve length may be a touch short, too. Generally, I don't like that much cuff showing unless I'm bending my arms. that's more of a personal touch thing, though.

    Interested to see the trousers. You should aim for a straight cut on them with no pleats and in fact I'd do a cuff at the bottom to break up the roundness.
     
  15. imanewbie

    imanewbie Senior member

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    correct the suit should disguise the oddness of your body, but this suit does not do that in fact it enhances your pear shape body. Like other folks have said the pockets need to higher or altered becuase its those pockets that are enchancing yoru pearshape. Next suit alter the height of the buttons and the pockets other than that the suit looks good man. If the yuur body was different I would say the suit looks good on another person.
     
  16. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    It looks nice with the new pics. There are varying opinions about how to de-emphasize a pear shaped body, but in my opinion opening up the quarters (cutting away the fronts to reveal more negative space below the button) along with lowering the button stance are the biggest aides. Opening up the quarters creates less fabric down around your large hips and visually breaks up the area so it doesn't appear as massive; and lowering the button stance elongates the upper torso and strengthens the chest. Fiddle with it in photoshop or paint and you'll see what I mean. Slant the hacking pockets steeper and move them farther out and away from the center of the torso, see Huntsman's website. I just have my tailor create the pocket flaps, but not actually make the pockets, since that adds mass in the place you don't want it. Worse comes to worse you can get your next jacket in a light fabric and trousers in dark... that is a huge help in countering the pear shape; but it does look more casual.
     
  17. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    I'm no expert but overall I think it's pretty good, not amazing, but not terrible. I spot a collar gap, also a dropped right shoulder, and lastly the hacked pockets plus high button stance are accentuating your hips. The sleeves could be narrower, and either the shirt sleeves are long or the suit sleeves are short.
     
  18. davidchan321

    davidchan321 New Member

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    I think the pocket makes you look bad... it totally display a pear body shape, I would recommend you to make a flat pocket instead
     
  19. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Senior member

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    There is some extra material under the armpits at the back which could be taken in. Like others have said, the pear shape is not a good look; I'm not sure how, to remedy that. It could be high button stance but possibly not. (I'd say, flat-angled pocket flaps would help.)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2012
  20. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I thought wide lapels and discreet waist suppresion were a good way to counter a pear shape? Other than that, lower button stance with open quarters and straight pockets with no flaps should be helpful next time.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2012

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