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Please Criticize Me!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Earthmover, Apr 7, 2005.

  1. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Hey Alex, You know what would be funny?  A certain other poster once had the temerity to bring personal communications into a public arena.  That thread ended with a lockdown.  But before it did so, there were many innuendos to various ethnic groups and their alleged sexual, um capabilities.  Now, it would be an gross abuse of authority to do so, and so I would never even suggest it be done; but if said poster was to do so again, it would be funny if all references to "insecure complexed Chinese" were suddenly replaced by "Mighty Chinese Warlord."  If the word "fashionista", used in a derogatory sense was replaced with the same, the comedy might even be better  [​IMG]
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    On a *serious* note, I think that the 56R (EU) would probably be much better. A lot of RTW makers use a R as a fit model, and just sort of hatchet job the longs. Combine that tendency with the fact that Isaia tends to cut a relatively long skirted jacket anyway, and the jacket can come out looking a little unbalanced. I expect that the R jacket would look much better, and not just on you.
     
  3. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    In my experience clothing firms of Isaia's reputation do not "hatchet job" anything, and in producing their clothing they pay little heed to what a "lot of RTW makers" do. Suppose I were to post in the charmingly named "Streetwear" forum that since Levi's does not inspect the seams on their $30 Wal-Mart jeans with great care, then PDC or Nudie jeans must have quality-control issues. You would rightly call that line of thinking ridiculous.
     
  4. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

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    Here's a link to an EBay seller who is offering Isaia suits in both a EU 56R and also in a EU56L, with accompanying measurements. You might want to compare the measurements on these two suits (assuming they're the same model as yours). The regular size jacket seems to be about 1.4" shorter than the long . Can't tell whether shortening the jacket length by 1.4" will be enough or whether the other measurements will make an improvement. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WD1V EDIT: If I were you, I'd check the sleeve measurements on the regular Isaia.
     
  5. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    LAGuy - on a *serious* note: please explain yourself.
     
  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Really tempted to move this thread...

    Actually, smaller companies like Paper Denim have more quality control issues than larger ones like Levis. Only in the past 3 years or so has Paper Denim really gotten its production consistent. Previously, although the jeans were of good (and I submit, better) quality denim, and the washes better conceived, consistency was a problem. The washes were more likely to be different between batches, the sizing could vary widely between batches, etc...

    On the other hand, one pair of cheap, mass produced 501s is pretty much interchangeable with any other pair. This extends to their higher ranges too, because the infrastructure for really high quality control is there, although the *quality* of the final prioduct may still be lower. Similarly, Isaia is a mid-sized company that makes a great product, but lacks the infrastructure of say, Zegna or Hugo Boss; and although they may ultimately make a better suit, they don't probably, for example, have fit models for *every* size they make, and have to make do with a little bit more ingenuity. Making a 56L is probably a rarity for them in any case. I'd wager that their 38/40/42Rs fit better than their larger or smaller sizes.

    That being said, "hachet job" is a poor characterization. Maybe "out of their core competency" is better.
     
  7. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    Fair enough, LA Guy. I certainly defer to your expertise regarding PDC jeans, since I have only purchased them in the last 2 years. I guess my underlying point is that, while you have a great deal of expertise in casual clothing, hearing you express your--to my eye quite wrong--opinions about suit trousers is a bit like hearing Manton expatiate on high-end Japanese ring-spung denim. (Speaking hypothetically, of course.) It just seems like you are slightly out of your element.

    Note that I am not making any judgments about which is better, suits or jeans, or whether knowledge about suits is more/less of value than knowledge about jeans.
     
  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Ah, Alex, just having a little fun [​IMG] Moderators have a tool to edit posts, not to be used except in the cases when posters make really offensive statements (I can think of less than half a dozen cases in which anyone was censored in this manner. Even ernest's conjectures that I was a complexed Chinese were left alone.) I was just imagining the comedic possibilities for this particular function should it be abused. Of course, none of the moderators (and I think that I can safely speak for everyone) would actually do this, since it would make the forum an unwelcome police state, if internet fora can be thus characterized. And of course, j. holds an iron hand over me [​IMG]
     
  9. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    OK ... accepted in fun.

    I am fully aware of a moderator's tools. One reason I wouldn't want to be one is because moderators have to be damn careful about what they say. Even jesting can come across as threatening.
     
  10. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Lot of guys on this forum already pointed enough .. so .. I'll be gentle and concise.

    1. Return this suit and get regular length.
    2. I would get 52, if you got 54. I can see extra room on chest, belly, and tricep area. These places are hard to alter and expensive.
     
  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    While I am probably less knowledgeable than Manton on these matters, and certainly less knowledgeable about tie, shirt, and trouser design than Chuck or Alex or FIH, I actually know a little more about tailored clothing than I generally let on. Casual clothing is my particular interest, but I try to be conversant and reasonably knowledgeable about all types of clothing (I'll confess to knowing pretty much nothing about shoes other than sneakers or watches.)

    As for your comparison between me and Manton, there are material differences between the way we approach our knowledge of clothing. I believe very much in knowing my enemy. Not that traditional tailored clothing is my enemy. That would just be a crazy person's ranting.
     
  12. spatten

    spatten Senior member

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    Of course, I would not do this. As I mentioned earlier it seems a bit tight at the button - one can see the "X" in both pictures around the top button. On a well fitting suit - this would not be there.

    Sometimes the tailor will fix this by moving the button on the inside of the jacket.

    Oddly, the place in which the suit seems a bit big to me is in the skirt. I'm not certain why that is - something peculiar about the cut and how it lays on our model.
     
  13. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    I don't think this is restricted to moderators, but simply anyone whose opinion is held in high respect. Besides, LA Guy (and I as well) are not moderators on Men's Clothing, just our Streetwear and Denim forum, which I still insist is aptly named at least until the meaning of the word shifts. I actually thought you were being mostly serious, LAG, because I found some of Alex's rhetoric to be pretty ornery, though I tried my best to just sit on my hands about it.

    Simply because LA Guy's preference and perhaps a majority of his knowledge is in casualwear does not mean that his comments are any less valid - it simply means that those who doubt his or anyones credibilities are using their peripheral route of persuasion (quite disappointing to see here, actually).
     
  14. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    On-topic, I get the feeling that you have very wide hips and a generous behind. This is pulling at the lower parts of the coat and opening the vent. What first struck me was how the opening of the coat is not vertical in the front. Looking at the pictures I can not see how you can button the lower button without putting a strain on the jacket. A smaller jacket would probably just make the problem worse but a shorter skirt could conceivably make it better. Without ever identifying the problem from the pictures I realized when reading other members' comments why I had been giving your crotch inappropriate amount of attention. [​IMG] Lower the pants a bit please. B
     
  15. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Well, this has gone for a while, but as many have stated: lower that pant.

    .luc
     
  16. WJTW

    WJTW Well-Known Member

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    What?. No comments about it being brown...erm...brown-ish? The colour seem to vary from the first (page 1) and second set (page 4) of pictures. Which is closer to the correct colour? The usual stuff: Shorten the cuffs (a bit) and shorten the trousers. Anyway, do you guys think a lower button stance would look better? It might make the person appear slimmer since, well, the jacket is a bit, erm, full. Are the jacket and pants part of the same set or are they separate pieces? Perhaps it could be the pictures but the colours look a bit different to me. So those are called western pockets. I kind of like them on 'business' pants since they are, well, different. Perhaps when the time comes for me to get a real suit, I might have the tailor make an extra pair of pants for the suit but with western pockets (and the other with normal side pockets), or perhaps a pair of pants made separate from the suit with a diffferent fabric. I understand they might not be suitable for business but I might get away with it since no one will see it if I button the jacket. [​IMG] Oh, are blue socks okay with the trousers? I think they are supposed to match the trousers but is the brown trouser-and-blue socks combination acceptable? WJTW
     
  17. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    Well, I thought it was well understood that the suit would be used exclusively for fieldwork. It is strawberry season in the Northeast in a few months. Must get ready.

    The color is darker than the pictures would represent. "Medium Brown Heather" is what they called it, but the abundance of natural light yesterday made the suit appear lighter.

    I just got back from Field's a few hours ago. I took their advice on everything; about 1" in the front bottom to be moved up, shorten the sleeves by about .625" on the right and .75" on the left, move the collar up a bit to prevent a bit of wrinkling at the neck, and 1.75" cuffs, with medium break. He said the shoulders were very slightly snug, but acceptable, and he said the waist was slightly tight, but not too bad (and I aspire to lose a few pounds as well). The gentleman was wonderfully helpful, and it was a very good experience. I can't wait to get my suit back a fortnight hence. I assume it will turn out great.

    Thank you everyone for the comments.
     
  18. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    Please post pics when you get the suit back. [​IMG]
     
  19. Matt

    Matt Senior member

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    i have nothing really to add other than to compliment you on your attitude here. feeling a little jaded from the pages and pages of arguments on askandy from the guy who bought from ravi, asked for opinions and then argued with each and every one of them - it was refreshing to read this thread which you approached objectively and appreciatively.

    good luck and hope it turns out well for you.

    oh and ps - second the call to post pics when its done.
     
  20. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    Glad to hear the experience (so far) with Field's was positive.
     

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