Please Criticize Me!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Earthmover, Apr 7, 2005.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Just curious: I assume by those basting "x"s in the rear that the vents are tacked closed? Judging from your caboose and that back balance, as soon as those threads come off, those vents are going to pop and that back flap is going to swing open like a trap door. This is not an easy thing to fix through alterations, if it is possible at all ...
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    If you have a short torso and long legs, I would *highly* recommend getting a 44R instead of a 44L.  The rise on the pants will have minimal diffferences, but the jacket will require much fewer alterations - it's hard to shorten the jacket proper, and even harder to find a tailor who can do this properly.  

    As for exercising, the best way is to be competitive.  I like to run on the opposite side of the Charles River that the Varsity teams run on.  Except for the men's cross country teams, who run at quite a good clip, even the JVs (I was never good enough for that, and I'm about 10 years older than those guys now,) I am still able, through sheer stubborness, to beat most of the teams on their runs.  I used to like to race the Marine Reserves on their runs in the hills of Pasadena.  The real marines have to be able to run 2 miles in under 14 minutes in gear - which may actually be sort of difficult; but there are plenty of lardasses in the reserves.
     


  3. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    Photos 1 & 2. The balance of the coat is way off and needs work. When unbuttoned, the vertical section of the fronts should be hanging parallel.

    On another subject ... when a wet-behind-the-ears political hack like Mr. Clooney is placed above an icon of style such as Mr. Grant on the sartorial scale, it would be wise IMHHHO that the thread be moved to the Streetwear and Denim forum.
     


  4. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    Your "true" Isaia size may be a 45 semi-long, which to my knowledge they don't make.
     


  5. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    P.S.: Fixing the balance will be expensive and difficult - if it is possible at all.
     


  6. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    Bravo to you, Mr. Kabbaz, for saying that.

    Although I am waiting for you or cuffthis to defend the honor of Mr. Flusser.
     


  7. spatten

    spatten Senior member

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    Ok,
    Most of these points have been mentioned, but here's my take.

    I think the jacket also looks long.  But as Manton mentioned the angle maybe be skewing our view.  I'm 6'2 with a 34 inch inseam and I choose the R instead of the L in the 2 button Isaia - but mine's just a hair short.  I think you can probably get away with it, you'll have to decide.

    I think the jacket waist needs let out a touch.  In the photo with the top button fastened you can see the typical "X"  in the fabric around the button indicating it is too tight.

    I can't really comment on your shoulders - the picture doesn't tell enough.  

    As mentioned sleeves could probably come up.  

    The pants look great to me, and in my unprofessional opinion the above quote is nothing short of gobbledygook.  I'm almost certain flat front trousers have a well established tradition of sitting around the natural waist.

    Edit - I also think sometimes we forget that as men we don't really pose in our suits much, and walking or movement will mask some of the errors. So I tend to be more forgiving then some. Posing in my tailsuit - I do all the time - and it has to be perfect.
     


  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Hi Alex. Knew you'd chime in on the side of the forces of darkness.
    [​IMG] I would never opine, given the interviews I've read and seen, that George Clooney is a intellectual giant - far from it. I'm not sure how intelligent or otherwise Cary Grant was. However, Cary Grant is dead, and his style, while it should serve as inspiration, is an anachronism if one tries to bring it to life as it was in the here and now. I assume that the rest of your comments were meant to be facetious, Alex.
     


  9. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    I actually just called Field's to make an appointment for tomorrow, assuming, at the very least, to be able to tailor it to a good fit... but Mr. Kabbaz's words are making me a bit uneasy. The main reason I posted was to figure out whether the suit would have the potential to be a superb fit, and the initial posts seemed to say that the potential was there.

    In any case, I think I will talk to the tailors and take their advice. I'm hoping the lack of balance comes from my bad habit of standing with most of the weight on one foot (going side to side; I do it without thinking most of the time), or perhaps it's because my right shoulder is slightly more developed than the left due to playing a lot of tennis. And also just that I took bad, tilted pictures. In any case, at this point, I will cross my fingers and hope for the best at Field's. Considering that I got an Isaia suit for $480, I am certainly willing to pay for good tailoring.

    Thank you all very much for your help. And more comments are still welcome, of course.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    You know, it has been pointed out to me that this sounds like a rule. But that can't be right. No. Of course not. [​IMG]
     


  11. JBZ

    JBZ Senior member

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    Is it me, or do the pants pockets look, well, odd? Perhaps this is an Isaia signature (I'm not really familiar with them). On the other hand, if you like the pockets, who am I to say?

    Jeff
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know what the Italians call them, but American tailors call those "Western" pockets.
     


  13. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    I think they look like the pockets on a pair of jeans. May be to some people's taste, but not to mine. I know that I could not get away with that at the office. But I suspect my environment is much more conservative than that of the people posting on the Streetwear forum. [​IMG]
     


  14. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    He is a style icon and movie legend. I don't believe he was ever a member of Mensa.

    I would agree that my other comments were facetious ... except I don't believe that I made any other comments.

    Darth

    Earthmover: The poor balance undoubtedly comes from your shoulders being squarer than the 2 1/2" average shoulder slope. That is a good thing for posture ... a bad thing for buying RTW.
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    "Balance" in this sense refers to symmetry in cutting, or in certain instances, actual asymmetry that produces aesthetic symmetry.  It's probably not your posture; meaning, simply changing the way you stand is not likely to fix the problem.  If not, the question is whether there are enough inlays in that coat to correct the balance.  Trust in Field.  They are good.
     


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