Please Criticize Me!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Earthmover, Apr 7, 2005.

  1. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    Hello Gentlepersons, Thanks to the help of many here and AA, I've been introduced to Sierra Trading Post, and bought an Isaia suit, which arrived today. I was rather concerned about fit, since this was my first European (heck, you could argue it's my first "real" suit purchase) suit, I was a bit uneasy about the possible fit. Following STP's recommendation, I got a 56L, which they said was a 44L equivalent, which I tend to wear. Now, I don't think the suit fits so horribly that I need to return it, which is good news. However, I was hoping to get a good critique of my suit (and shirt and tie), since I am new at this, and more information is always good. I will be bringing the suit to Field's here in DC as per some high praise by those in the know, to get buttonholes cut and whatever else may be needed. I have my own opinions, but I would like to hear what everyone else thinks first. Everything is fair game for criticism (except for the messy room in the background, since I am in the middle of major spring cleaning). I have a thick skin, so no need to worry about me. Sorry for the bad exposure and photo angles... that was the best I could do right now. And thank you so much for your help. Let me know if there are any more questions. The suit is 45/55 Linen/Wool blend, as seen here. With side vents and lining just covering the shoulder, not full. It seems like it is fairly cool material. Buttoned: [​IMG] Unbuttoned: [​IMG] Back, buttoned: [​IMG] Without Jacket: [​IMG] Trousers: [​IMG] And here's a larger version of the Trousers that shows the fabric well (this file is large, at 2.2mb): http://www.theaug.com/Pictures/Trouser.jpg Thank you so much for all your help.
     


  2. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    Your ties a bit long you should shorten it to make it hit your belt buckle.
     


  3. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    How tall are you?  The jacket looks like it's a bit on the long side, but it's hard to tell without a full-body shot.
     


  4. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    When you take it to Field's I'd ask them to shorten the coat by about an inch or so. (Actually, just ask for their recommendation - - about the coat and the rest -- they won't steer you wrong)

    Otherwise, it looks great. Pants look perfect. Jacket shoulders look to be a good fit. Sleeve length is pretty close.
     


  5. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    It is hard to tell since the photo was taken at an angle (can you do another photo, but stand further away from the camera?). To my eye the coat appears to be on the long side.
     


  6. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    I am 6'1", so I may be on the cusp of Long/Regular for suiting. I think my legs are a bit longer than average, so that may be throwing the balance off. I tend to wear 34" inseam, so that may be the problem.

    I've actually had the most uneasiness about sleeve lengths in general. From what you see on the picture, how much shorter should the sleeves be? I think the shirt sleeve may be too long as well, but I am just not sure about these things. If I have a preference, I think it's that I like sleeves slightly on the longer side.

    I am not sure if want to post another picture right now; it is really warm (at least for me) in DC, and I was sweating like crazy while taking the picture, so I think it was a bit hurried. To add, I don't have people here who can take the picture for me, so that's another difficulty. However, it seems that a general consensus is that the coat is on the long side (which was my impression as well), so I will talk to Field's about shortening.

    One other question: from the back photo, it seems that the waist may be slightly tight, since I can see some pulling; should I just lose about five pounds, not worry about it because it's minor, or ask to have it let out a bit?
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I think the low angle of the photo may be distorting the look of that suit. Â The coat certainly looks long in the picture -- much too long, to my eye. Â The buttoning point looks extremely high, or the skirt extremely long, or both. Â When I look at the shoulders from your waist up, they look good. Â When I look at them in comparison to your hips (and the skirt of the coat) they look too small, or the skirt looks too big, or both. Â The back balance looks significantly off. Â There should be some contour through the small of your back, but that's a lot. Â And it, ahem, makes your rear stick out. Â The trouser waist and front rise looks good.
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The sleeves need to come up. I would say 1/2" at least, but I like to show a tad more cuff than most. If you like your coat sleeves on the long side, you might want less. The gentlemen at Field will happily and expertly help you get that right to your satisfaction.
     


  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    First of all, it seems like you are wearing the trousers just a little too high. They look like they are meant to sit about 1/2 to 1 inch lower, and you'll need to let out an inch or so in the waist. You've got a bit of juice in the caboose, so having the pants sit a little lower will deaccentuate this a little as well as making the crotch not look as painfully tight... And the tie is too long by about an inch and a half.

    The jacket looks slightly too wide through the shoulders and chest, and is a little too tight through the torso. It is also a little too long in the sleeves, and a fair bit too long in the body. You're going to need to take it to a tailor. Truthfully, a 44R would probably have fit you just fine.

    This is all given that you probably won't take my best piece of advice, which would be to lose a bit of weight (it'll probably come off your butt and belly first, if that's where it goes first) and gain a little muscle up top. Core exercises as well as some cardio and light weights (read a book or consult a personal trainer) would really help.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Nooooooooo.......

    They look good. As long as they are comfortable, you should not change them. It's so hard to find belt trousers with a waist rise that actually fit and don't slip. Don't give in to the fashionistas.

    ...

    Ok, I am calm now.
     


  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    BTW, only in the last picture does the tie truly look too long. In the others, it just looks mildly too long. I would recommend, however, pulling the knot all the way up into the collar.
     


  12. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    I realized that the tie was too long when I saw the pictures; I used to only do windsor/half windsors, and I've been experimenting with a four-in-hand recently, and I think I just didn't think about the length too much. So much to keep track of. It'll be a while before everything comes to me naturally.

    I was afraid of getting a 44R in the case that sleeves turned out to be too short, which would have forced me to return... Although I see your point. I was going to take it to a tailor anyway, so hopefully they will take care of all this.

    As for your last advice, I did make a slight joke about it in a previous post, but I am working on it, a little bit at a time. I hate exercising for exercises' sake, but I love playing sports, so I've been trying to play some more tennis and basketball, so hopefully with better eating habits and sports, my shape will improve.

    Thanks so far for all the help. I really appreciate it.
     


  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I'm sorry, but Manton is wrong [​IMG] Flat front trousers are meant to sit just above the hips, and significantly below the natural waist. And even if you choose to keep the trousers at that height (a grave mistake, imo) you need to let the material out a little - the fourth pictures shows quite a bit too much tension across the lower torso. On a well fitting pair of flat front pants the crease should go nearly up to the waistband. They don't do that here. Maybe an inch would be too drastic, but certainly a half inch is warranted. Manton would have most men looking like Alan Flusser (stodgy) or Cary Grant (dead.). I would have most men who aspire to a good, classic look to look like George Clooney. Pick your poison.
     


  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Not that I have a lot of experience with flat front trousers. Â But those looked right to me where they were. Â And, for the record, I hold that no belted trousers are properly worn at or above the natural waist, but just below.
    Well, not the hair, certainly ...
    Now you're talking.
    Eh. Â Could be worse. Â Lousy Batman, and he had such promise for the role. Â But of course there were script problems from day one ...
     


  15. mr. magoo

    mr. magoo Senior member

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