Please comment on suit coat fit

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by jrcampbe, Oct 5, 2016.

  1. jrcampbe

    jrcampbe Member

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    Gentlemen,

    I'm a large (fat) man. Let me preface this by saying my current suits fit better than any in 20 years. That's because I had several made for the first time recently. Unfortunately that was before I discovered this forum. I'm looking for some feedback on fit.

    I'm 5'8", 56" chest, 52" waist, 21" neck, 29" inseam. These are not attractive dimensions, but properly fitting clothes can make a difference.

    My question is, how is this fit? I believe it fits quite well but I am concerned the button stance.

    I've read on this forum that there is a wide range of acceptable button stance on a suit coat. I also understand that higher buttons are in fashion at the moment. I have a gut, and I pull my pants up over my gut, so the trouser waistband is about at the belly button.

    This might be hard to judge without a full-length photo, but I think a higher stance MAY act to diminish my belly and lengthen my (short) legs. After reading all the posts about how the top button should be AT the belly button, which would be at the top of my trousers, I'm concerned these aren't right. On the other hand, that would be quite low on me.

    Please comment on the fit here. Ideally I'd like to hear that it is serviceable but on my next suit I may consider certain adjustments. But if the truth hurts, I still want to hear it.

    Thank you!

    Jim[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2016
  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Hey Jim, we needbetter pictures...use the camera timer. We need clear front, back, and side if you want good feedback.
     
  3. jrcampbe

    jrcampbe Member

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    Hey guys, I finally got some better pictures.

    I do not have an easy to fit body type (fat dude). But any thoughts are appreciated. Also: I have a back injury and I stand a little crooked. You can see that on the right shoulder from the back view.

    Jim

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. albertcross

    albertcross Member

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    I think the torso is ok. like you said you are a bit chubby.
    trousers are a bit too long though.
    but overall you are looking good.
     
  5. eagleman

    eagleman Senior member

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    Not a bad look at all. I agree with the trouser length. They are a little long.
     
  6. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Also, collar gap is an issue. Lowering both the jacket and shirt collars would help, but it's a lot to ask. The horizontal pocket placement isn't ideal, but nothing can be done about that.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2016
  7. jrcampbe

    jrcampbe Member

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    Please elaborate. Horizontal pockets, I assume, should be closer to the buttons?

    Regarding collar gap, are we talking about the space between the points of the shirt collar and the lapels? What exactly should I have changed on my next suit? Should the shirts have longer collar points?

    Thanks,

    Jim
     
  8. double00

    double00 Senior member

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    fwiw i think the fit is not bad.

    i might add a couple thoughts - maybe ask your tailor to study the position of the button, per your first post.

    i feel like it actually may be a little high, the front quarters seem to flare more than necessary and i feel like it might be due to the closure being a couple inches too high. you could just pinch it shut at various points and get a sense of what is possible there.

    along the same lines, have you considered a rolled lapel or even a db jacket? it may give a little more balance to your chest, although you seem to be doing just fine in that regard. just spitballing.

    i'd stick with the dual vents or even consider a non-vented jacket. single would probably not flatter since the tendency will be to flare open in an awkward spot.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2016
  9. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Yes.

    The suit collar should lay flat on the shirt. That is something a tailor should be able to spot and correct.

    That doesn't appear necessary.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2016

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