I had decided to get an odd jacket made by my tailor and picked the fabric out 6 weeks ago. I picked out a navy blue fabric with a lighter blue window pane pattern. It was a super 150 fabric from the Tip Top vendor. I had a suit made by my tailor in the fall, and at that time, he told me that he cuts the pattern and then send it off to Rochester (Banksmiranda thought it was a cut,make,trim firm called Adrian Jules). The suit I had made in October was excellent. So I was expecting the same when I went in for my first fitting yesterday. When I arrived, the jacket was in a state that was completely different from the first fitting of my suit. Whereas the suit was already sewn together, etc, the jacket yesterday was basted together, and the lapels hadn't been sewn on yet. The canvas was still showing. When I remarked that I was surprised to see the jacket in that condition, given that I thought it had been sent off, my tailor answered that he decided not to send off the jacket, but to do it all by hand himself. He said that he hasn't had many bespoke garments requested, so he just decided to start doing them himself as he had done most of his life. I'm "only" paying $1350 for the jacket, which I think is a bargain, considering it is now true bespoke by one tailor, and so far looks excellent. My tailor's personal style is more a Roman look (he's a Sicilian by birth, and Northern Italian by training), and would fall somewhere between the structured Brioni style and the more natural Kiton style. He makes a garment with slight waist supression, which I like (and need) and has the lapel roll/belly I like. Anyway, I was just pleasantly surprised that I would be getting a true bespoke jacket when I was thinking he was shipping the jacket offsite for the actual construction. I guess it will require an extra couple of weeks to be finished, but I'm not complaining. I'll post pictures when it is complete.