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Pitti Uomo 83: Classic Menswear Edition

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by LA Guy, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    I read "Ducal" and think of the now-defunct, very middle-class (but very solid & practical for all that) furniture brand that used to be popular in the UK many moons ago. Either that or the rather more irredeemably chintzy Crown Ducal china patterns.

    What fresh Ducal is this? :)

    (thanks for all the great snaps, by the way!)
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  2. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Senior member

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    That was such a fun set of photos. Thank you for taking and sharing them!

    I'm surprised that Drakes et al. don't want their collection photographed and posted online. Why is that? Do they want to announce/promote the designs themselves, later?
     
  3. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    they probably want control over presentation. when, where, how and how much of their new lines will appear, and so on. it is understandable imo. not every brand is like that, but i can respect it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  4. Connemara

    Connemara Senior member

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    This is an awesome threak.
     
  5. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great photos....thanks for posting!
     
  6. Epaulet

    Epaulet Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hey guys,

    Just to add to the deluge of shoe pics, here's some detail shots of my two favorite styles from Ludwig Reiter. They do a fantastic Alt Wien (fitting for an actual old Vienna shoemaker) and a solid single monk.

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    Alden also brought out some new samples for the show. I really dig this Van-last boot with a handsewn moc. They made it up in both a 9-eye and a 7-eye model. And good lord, that loden suede is sharp:

    [​IMG]

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    They've also got a new chromexcel PTB. The weight on the leather is heavy enough to make the shoe unlined in the toe. It's a nice touch which really slims up the profile:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
    2 people like this.
  7. A.J.V

    A.J.V Senior member

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    Here's some points from my (blogger) view after couple of Pitti fairs.

    There are a lot of different policies and attitudes towards people trying to take photos. Some allow only people with the press pass, some let anyone take photos and then there are some who are between these two lines. For example Cucinelli is pretty restricted, there are few guys / journalists who they let to take pictures, mainly guys they know well.

    What I do, is always tell what I do (tell about my blog etc) and then ask for the permission to take some shots and of course post them after that. If the answer is no (as it has been for example at Silvano Lattanzi. In general I think some of the shoemakers are the most strict on their "policies") then it's no. And as said before that is to be respected.

    It would be great make more detailed stories or posts of every brand seen at the fair but as the time is limited it's hardly possible. This time I chose few brands that I wanted to take a closer look and have a chat with them as well (such as Barena, Eleventy, Fedeli, Boglioli, Drake's) and then the others I went through and just took a look of the collection & snapped some photos.. Also met met some great guys such as Federico Ceschi of N.H Sartoria during the week and will be posting the interview at some time later.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  8. A.J.V

    A.J.V Senior member

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    I think he's referring to Ducal (-Firenze) Shoes.

    Beautiful hand-crafted shoes, the collection was really nice.

    Not to be confused with Doucal's, also Italian shoe brand.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  9. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thank you! I really enjoyed taking the photos as well. I'm not one of those guys with a DSLR and a huge lens but I still had fun!

    Regarding secrecy around new collections. One of the reasons is because the collections don't hit the stores till around September and they just don't want it to be seen elsewhere before then, they work so hard on it and want the launch to be "OH WOW!!" as opposed to "I was waiting for that to come out, I saw it 6 months ago...". Also, I was told that the wholesale customer of certain brands get annoyed when the new collections are all over the internet before their official release.. This I can definitely sympathise with.

    I don't think they're worried about people copying their collections or if they are, it's not as much as they don't want it to be released before the proper time.
     
  10. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Enjoyed those pics Dave, thanks!
     
  11. Zeppelin

    Zeppelin Senior member

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    Thanks a lot @davesmith for sharing!

    Except for the sometimes too dramatic shoulder, I really love Sciamat. Peculiar but all in all not too eccentric I think!
     
  12. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    ^ Where will this be for sale?

    I wanna buy the whole outfit :D
     
  13. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    They really push the boundaries, but their stuff remains in the realm of high-quality, tailored men;s clothing... One of my real "Pitti" moment was seeing Nicola Ricci (Director of Sciamat) being directed by a bunch of photographers as he was walking outside and they were snapping photos. Made me smile..

    It would take a special man to rock that! Not sure what the SC is made of but it's lined with vintage silk and has a Harris Tweed vest! Also, I love the way they presented their ties..
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    some cool shoes in there. thanks for the clarification.
     
  15. Dan e gee

    Dan e gee Senior member

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    I'd say they are more concerned with people copying their new lines before they are out.
    After all, you don't really know who is taking the pictures and what for.
     
  16. Dan e gee

    Dan e gee Senior member

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    Certainly would like to give that outfit a go.

    I love the look of the ties too. I suppose the high neck on the shirts has a lot to do with that.
     
  17. ElliottPapineau

    ElliottPapineau Senior member

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    Any more shots of the new Alden's?
     
  18. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Any Lattanzi photos that were captured on film?
     
  19. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I got some, but the security guard watched me delete them!
     
  20. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    lol, awesome.
     

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