Pinned collars

[Manton]

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[j]

By type I guess I meant construction details. I assume the collar should forego stays for the stiffer interlining?

 

[banksmiranda]

 

[Manton]

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[banksmiranda]

That is a shirt by Fray, a Bolognese shirtmaker. Go figure, it's from a Japanese site - Jun Kuwana's site. http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/harumi/

 

[Manton]

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[banksmiranda]

D'accord.

 

[Alexander Kabbaz]

By type I guess I meant construction details. I assume the collar should forego stays for the stiffer interlining?

Sometimes - but in other cases a lighter stay is used parallel to the downward direction of the collar point. It is a construction that needs to be experimented with on each wearer to obtain the ideal roll. Combination of spread, length, tie knot and thickness of tie.

 

[Manton]

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[Phil]

So I just ordered a few shirts with collars that are intended to be pinned down, from Brooks Brothers. Ive always been a spread collar fanatic, but after 10 years, im growing tired of it. I talked with the gentleman there that takes my orders, and I was asking him all sorts of questions about pinning. Take it for what its worth, but he was adamant about not using eyelets if I was planning to use the safety pin type of collar pin exclusively. I asked him about the damage it could cause the shirt, etc. He mentioned the same logic as Will - (suspenders with belt loops), and added that he thinks its tacky and contrived if you use an eyelet with a safety pin. He went on to tell me that the damage it will cause over the years is part of its charm, not a detrement. He compared it to the edges of a french cuff fraying over time, which is not as much a sign of disrepair as it is a sign of character of the shirt and the wearer. In either case, my shirts will arrive in a few weeks and I will put them to the test. On a tangent, I dont understand the fuss about getting the pin right. I bought a few pins, to practice, and it seems pretty easy. If the pin is off by a tiny amount on one side its no reason to get crazy, it cant be perfect every time.