Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PierpontLeather, May 25, 2016.
Project from last week. Love the colors on this one. Chagrin on Taurillon.
Thanks for the leather valet @PierpontLeather. Very nice work.
Here are some other detailed shots.
My pleasure @coldinboston. It was a pleasure to work with you, as always.
Interestingly designed custom order. Very good looking & well proportioned.
4 card slots, 2 interior horizontal hard slots, 1 exterior horizontal card slot, and a hidden pocket.
Looks nice. Is this meant to be a card holder/wallet? What are the dimensions?
Thanks, they're almost 5'' x 3'' closed. This is in Whiskey Buttero and Ivory Calfskin. I don't usually use this calfskin, but it's been requested a couple of times by clients after I posted this wallet with the same combination of leathers! Starting to run a little short on Whiskey Buttero
Shop Pictures: What tools I love.
Almost every single tool that I own is a hand tool. I'm also sort of a minimalist as far as tools go. I think that new tools and gadgets and expensive things can definitely improve your work in some instances - but I'm a firm believer in knowledge through teachers, mentors, books, and practical experience. That being said, here a few of my favorite tools. I figured that some of you might find it interesting.
1. Burnishing Iron: In the background you'll see a wooden handle with a tip on it similar to the one that's resting in the foreground of the picture. It's simply an electric iron that heats up to a temperature that's set by the craftsman. It has two primary purposes: a) sealing the edge of a piece with a crease down the edge, and b) for smoothing the edges during the finishing process.
It's my favorite tool. It replaced the flame-heated versions of this tool as concerns regarding the use of an open flame indoors have grown. Bea was one of the first to use this tool, originally shipped to her to comply with the Insurance policy of the property owner of one of the first Hermes stores that showcased the craft in the USA.
(also pictured: my favorite scissors, and needles.)
From Left to Right:
2. Thread 'nippers': oddly shaped scissors that make cutting thread to size a bit quicker.
3. Wing Dividers: these allow me to mark a certain distance from the edge of piece. Depending on the leather, it will leave a mark of some kind that runs parallel to the edge at a fixed distance. I usually try to keep this mark quite light, as it serves only as a guide to mark my holes when I stitch.
4. Awls (left: 'round awl', right: 'diamond awl') These are both used to widen the holes that I stitch through. You use them at different times of the stitching process, for different reasons. The round awl is kept somewhat blunt, and helps to navigate backstitching. The diamond awl is used to make small holes in the leather to stitch through. The name of each respective awl refers to the shape of each blade's cross-section.
5. Pricking Irons: these are used to mark the holes in the leather at fixed intervals. The holes that they make are slightly slanted. This slant is referred to as the irons' 'pitch.' Pricking irons from different eras and parts of the world have a different pitch and shape to each 'tooth', which can affect the aesthetic and properties of the stitches. Below you see a large one, and a small one. The larger one has ten teeth, and the smaller one has two (for corners and circles, or tighter areas.)
Pricking irons come in many different sizes, often referred to in a #. The number refers to the number of teeth per inch. A common misconception is that the number refers to the stitches per inch, which is does not. Aren't they the same, you ask? Well, not really. If you stitch with an iron that has 9 teeth per inch, you're stitching at 8 stitches per inch. Common sense, but often confused. Many craftsman just refer to it as stitches per inch, fully knowing the difference, as it sounds nicer than 'teeth per inch.'
A small cardholder in Barenia
Some interior detail pictures of a new project.
Details on the Barenia?
Details on this leather?
The lining on the card holder is chevre mysore.
@coldinboston is correct - the interior lining is Chèvre Mysore. It's a vegetable tanned French goatskin that's been hand-boarded to achieve a distinctive pebble grain. I think I spoke about it in a previous post, so I won't elaborate about it too much.
Barenia is a French calfskin that was originally used in saddlery. Over the years, it's been used in everything from Hermes' saddles to Birkins to Apple watch straps.
It's a somewhat heavy, smooth, tough leather that's resistant to most scratches and water. It ages very well, and it develops patina very nicely. The characteristics of Barenia are interesting for a leather that feels so natural and soft to the touch. When taken down to a lighter weight, Barenia is one of the softest, most supple leathers I have worked with. It has a certain richness to it that's hard to describe or capture in pictures.
It's a sought-after leather by some, as it has proven difficult for larger companies to reliably find hides that are clean enough to cut large panels from (for production runs of bags and cases). For this reason, you'll often find a lot of smaller items made from Barenia, as companies can be more creative in the way that they click their pieces from the material.
The more technical definition is that it's a mineral tanned, vegetable re-tanned calfskin that's been stuffed or 'fattened' by the tannery in a way that promotes the characteristics of durability and water resistance it's noted for.
Separate names with a comma.